LED Diffusion Panels for the DIY-er?

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With the announcement of EcoTech soon to release a diffuser add on for their Radion lights, and companies like Kessil with diffuser pucks that fit nicely over their dense matrix LED's, I'm wondering if there is a simple way to build your own for any LED fixture we may have over our tanks.

The idea is to trade a reduction in overall par in favor of a leap in color blending and reduction of disco ball effect.

I'd like to try this with my array of AI Hydra 52 classics.
Does anyone have suggestions on what material would be suitable for a reef aquarium environment, close proximity to hot LED fixtures, while producing a nice color diffusion/blend with minimal PAR reduction?

Thanks in advance for the ideas!!
 
@saltyfilmfolks didn't you mention having some experience with these before?
Yup. I've been using some in my ai sols for close to a year I think.

I tried a bunch of different pro photography and lighting stuff. Also I picked up some frosted glass to. But it was too green.
I'm using sanded plexi glass and it's held up well.
 
IMG_0233.JPG
 
One consideration is that the diffusion panel can cause extra heat in the fixture just know that it MIGHT have an effect on overall longevity.
 
Yeah, of course. Most of the better fixtures feature a splash shield or lenses at the very least, depending on the design special considerations may need to be taken to keep from impacting cooling.
 
Yeah, of course. Most of the better fixtures feature a splash shield or lenses at the very least, depending on the design special considerations may need to be taken to keep from impacting cooling.

Not sure how much more restrictive on the face you can get w/ 1)Primary lens (120-ish) on the chip itself, and any secondary optics..
Removing the lenses and adding a diffusion sheet on the outside probably increases cooling..
Almost all the main heat goes out the back side..
No those aren't air slots... :)
top side of the diode is practically sealed..

1WS-LMx-LED-LENS-6.jpg
 
Not sure how much more restrictive on the face you can get w/ 1)Primary lens (120-ish) on the chip itself, and any secondary optics..
Removing the lenses and adding a diffusion sheet on the outside probably increases cooling..
Almost all the main heat goes out the back side..
No those aren't air slots... :)
top side of the diode is practically sealed..

1WS-LMx-LED-LENS-6.jpg

I believe the issue is light being reflected back at the led, not airflow,
 
most "good" (useable) diffusion material has 80% light transmission.
Forward (then backward) light has little of a heat component to begin with..Even these w/ heating electronics to complicate things..
https://www.lifx.com/blogs/the-latest/19032975-how-hot-are-led-light-bulbs

LED emitted light is "cool" (little ot no IR, Sensible heat)...so bounce back has little warming component.
For Fun:

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What did you use to sand it? I'm assuming a very fine sand paper? Want to sand the acrylic splashguard on my diy fixtures..
I believe it was 220 or 400.
Def try it on a scrap piece.

It’ll scruff the surface , and if you keep going finer it’ll eventually buff out clear.
 
bumping this, since I'm going to play with diffusion panel and SB reef lights. I see that the acrylite product is "uv absorbent." Would this be an issue with absorbing beneficial UV or are they just talking about UV-B and UV-C absorbant. Do we have to worry about the acrylic "yellowing" due to UV?

I did find a polycarbonate product as well that might be a candidate: https://www.curbellplastics.com/Res...hnical-Resources/Makrolon-Lumen-XT-Data-Sheet
 

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