Led Diy

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Ralfff

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Hello Guys
Can you help please .
My father tank 140l , he has x4 39w T5 tubes , 10000k 15000k 18000k 2000k.
He would like to add Led DIY bar , I thing there is lack of blu light in his tank .
Can you plese advice what led config he should add , what power , color , type of the LEds ...maeby some royal blue leds ??
Please help .
 
Hello Guys
Can you help please .
My father tank 140l , he has x4 39w T5 tubes , 10000k 15000k 18000k 2000k.
He would like to add Led DIY bar , I thing there is lack of blu light in his tank .
Can you plese advice what led config he should add , what power , color , type of the LEds ...maeby some royal blue leds ??
Please help .
Kind of a big order there. There are dozens of ways and costs from premium to "as long as it works for a year" ;)..
Simplest description:
1) hunk of aluminum
2) ldd-hw driver
3) power supply
4) Bridgelux or epistar star board 3W diodes.
5) "Heatsink plaster"
wire solder and soldering iron.

Now
1) anything from 1" aluminum bar stock to "proper" heatsink.
1/8 x 1" flat bar stock $7/4ft
to $28.08/3ft proper heatsink
https://www.heatsinkusa.com/1-813-wide-extruded-aluminum-heatsink/

2) LDD-HW driver because it's wired so no cicuit board or tricky soldering involved.
Use 500mA-ish since sort of "standard" .more mA more heat to deal with.. See 1)

3) Power supply to match added voltage of led string V(f)'s at chosen current. Longish story
Blue leds are approx 3.3V per diode soo you match a power supply thus:
Add voltage of a string of LEDS, add voltage drop of LDD (about 3V) then that will give you the err class of power supply voltage. Will get to current in a moment.
BTW there are series/parallel arrangements but for the moment stick to the easiest topology.
A 48V power supply has 45 V available (48-3v for LDD)
45/3.3 = 13.6 diodes.. So just assume you can put 12 in series with one driver.
3.3 x say 500mA x 12 = 19.8 W bar.

4) color of diodes ..your choice anything from pure "royal blue" to a healthy mix of other blues/violets/uv.
Normal lean mostly Royal blue w/ possibly some regular blue thrown in.
Which ones is sort of complicated based on visual and fluorescent pigment responses and which pigments.
Probably no "right" answer..
You can mix or match "commercial" ones..
illumagic-jpg.1574050


super actinic .. mix of 450 and 420 diodes..2:1.
Recipe differs across brands.

5) Heatsink plaster or equiv are a thermal heat transfer silicone "glue".. Just glue everything down.

If you want a cheap way to dim this.. another time I guess.
Everything can probably sourced from ebay but suggest power supply from LEDSupply.
Meanwell cage power supplies are good and cheap enough and have voltage adjustments in a limited range but sort of important when dealing w/ a bunch of unknowns.

From a THEORETICAL point of view.. This looks promising
(RB)(C)(RB)(B).. repeat 3 x
Lensed 120 could add 90 degree lenses but def optional. Depends on how high up the bars are..

OH and if one wants "violet"," violet-blue", "deep blue", "blue", or sort of "ocean blue" look
* MIXING LIST
----------------------------------------
LED RoyalBlue (450nm) x18
LED Blue (470nm) x6
LED Cyan (490nm) x6
----------------------------------------

* SIMULATION DATA
----------------------------------------
Luminous flux : 967 lm
Radiant flux : 9,395 mW
PPF : 36 umol/s
TCP : ‑ K
CRI : ‑
λp : 448 nm
Color : #3347FF
----------------------------------------

* PERFORMANCE @ 60cm & 120° (compulsory)
----------------------------------------
Irradiance : 2.8 W/m²/s
Illuminance : 285 lx
PPFD : 10.6 umol/m²/s
 
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