LED Fixtures Driver Current

[PeterErc]

Hey there,

Curios if anyone knows the amperage that the top dog manufacturers are driving the diodes at.
When I opened a China box years ago I believe the max current was 600ma.
What I am looking for is how many milliamps is 100%.
Say 100% is 700ma then 50% is 350ma +- etc etc

It would depend on the forward voltage to know how many watts the diode is putting out.
Just a curiosity thing

Thanks

 

[oreo54]

Hey there,

Curios if anyone knows the amperage that the top dog manufacturers are driving the diodes at.
When I opened a China box years ago I believe the max current was 600ma.
What I am looking for is how many milliamps is 100%.
Say 100% is 700ma then 50% is 350ma +- etc etc

It would depend on the forward voltage to know how many watts the diode is putting out.
Just a curiosity thing

Thanks

Are you referring to what the likes of AI. Radion, Kessil uses?
I've only found any listing of actual for maybe 2 companies 1)Popbloom (DSunY) and I believe Maxspec.
The "possible" (long time ago, memory fades) Maxspect listed per channel, popbloom was more global.


Driver current will of course depend on diode.

Yea.. Maxspec

Funny, that light was released over 10 years ago with 90 and 120 degree reflectors (no lenses).

Product Review: Maxspect Razor

A hobbyist's take on his 60 gallon reef aquarium build, the aquarium hobby, and advice on reef tanks.

chromisreef.blogspot.com

 

[PeterErc]

Are you referring to what the likes of AI. Radion, Kessil uses?
I've only found any listing of actual for maybe 2 companies 1)Popbloom (DSunY) and I believe Maxspec.
The "possible" (long time ago, memory fades) Maxspect listed per channel, popbloom was more global.


Driver current will of course depend on diode.

Yea.. Maxspec

Funny, that light was released over 10 years ago with 90 and 120 degree reflectors (no lenses).

Thank you,

Yes any of the big players. Maxspec info is good but I was not a fan of the them. A LFS pushed them hard, more of a price point/profit though.

That is some good info and what I am looking for. If one were to run the A1 at 1.3 amps, which would be 100%, I don’t see anything good coming out of it. Being it is a 10 year old fixture that was the trend back then RB/CW. I had run CW @ 1050ma and showed it to a buddy. He went and did the same thing and fried the corals in his SPS tank. I have done up bio cubes with 700 and 350ma drivers with good results.

There is another thread about running not so blue tanks and the discussion about turning up intensity of “white” LED came up. It got me wondering about how hard the white diodes were being driven.

 

[oreo54]

Thank you,

Yes any of the big players. Maxspec info is good but I was not a fan of the them. A LFS pushed them hard, more of a price point/profit though.

That is some good info and what I am looking for. If one were to run the A1 at 1.3 amps, which would be 100%, I don’t see anything good coming out of it. Being it is a 10 year old fixture that was the trend back then RB/CW. I had run CW @ 1050ma and showed it to a buddy. He went and did the same thing and fried the corals in his SPS tank. I have done up bio cubes with 700 and 350ma drivers with good results.

There is another thread about running not so blue tanks and the discussion about turning up intensity of “white” LED came up. It got me wondering about how hard the white diodes were being driven.

..Yea it's sort of baffling and had some odd engineering but it was completely modular and easily obtain replacement parts. Not to mention..looks cool.
Try getting a driver board from err anyone else practically.

Well as to the turn up intensity thing I not sure how many assume decreasing something else (still a bit risky without knowing the par ratings of each channel/color).
Or ignoring the mantra.. never do anything fast.
Even the science seems to point to the fact that these systems cannot adapt fast to major changes in their enviroment.

Oddly whites are generally like 28% "blue" at 6500k, low cri.
49% green 23% red. Even more blue at the higher temps.

If someone said crank your blues up 25% without thinking.. Probably the same issues.

WAY off topic but just found it interesting..
Self customization. Expensive single diodes but hey.. pretty slick.

Silicon Base Development Inc. (Taiwan), a subsidiary of SemiLEDs Corporation,

Nobody could ever find the dual core "violets" which had a tendency to fade out.. Seems they were SiBDI.

 

[PeterErc]

..Yea it's sort of baffling and had some odd engineering but it was completely modular and easily obtain replacement parts. Not to mention..looks cool.
Try getting a driver board from err anyone else practically.

Well as to the turn up intensity thing I not sure how many assume decreasing something else (still a bit risky without knowing the par ratings of each channel/color).
Or ignoring the mantra.. never do anything fast.
Even the science seems to point to the fact that these systems cannot adapt fast to major changes in their enviroment.

Oddly whites are generally like 28% "blue" at 6500k, low cri.
49% green 23% red. Even more blue at the higher temps.

If someone said crank your blues up 25% without thinking.. Probably the same issues.

WAY off topic but just found it interesting..
Self customization. Expensive single diodes but hey.. pretty slick.

Nobody could ever find the dual core "violets" which had a tendency to fade out.. Seems they were SiBDI.

I didn’t know that Maxspect were customizable. I remember people changing diodes on the black boxes. But yea the mazzara were funky looking in a good way. I wasn’t a fan because I was running T5. I did the RB/CW on diy heatsink, then ended up removing the CW and replacing T5. That was a blue tank but was cool and new. People said you can’t grow SPS under LED, then again they said the same about VHO and T5, wrong again.

I don’t have a lot of experience with controllable LED. Everything on the nano’s was on/off fixed current. I now have two of the smatfarm G5’s and like them for the aesthetics. Much better than the old sunlight supply T5 fixture.

I remember the dual core that were stupid expensive. Wasn’t there a 4 core as well?

I just set up a 10g to grow dragons breath in. Pulled out the crate with the led stuff. I was going to run 6 green, 3 450n and 3 660nm for a light. I still have the old Cree CW and should just use those. Gotta throw a couple Vero 10 in the mix.

I have recently got the fever back after years of not taking good care of the tanks. Dug the halides out of the attic but will still be messing around with LED

 

[oreo54]

I didn’t know that Maxspect were customizable. I remember people changing diodes on the black boxes. But yea the mazzara were funky looking in a good way. I wasn’t a fan because I was running T5. I did the RB/CW on diy heatsink, then ended up removing the CW and replacing T5. That was a blue tank but was cool and new. People said you can’t grow SPS under LED, then again they said the same about VHO and T5, wrong again.

I don’t have a lot of experience with controllable LED. Everything on the nano’s was on/off fixed current. I now have two of the smatfarm G5’s and like them for the aesthetics. Much better than the old sunlight supply T5 fixture.

I remember the dual core that were stupid expensive. Wasn’t there a 4 core as well?

I just set up a 10g to grow dragons breath in. Pulled out the crate with the led stuff. I was going to run 6 green, 3 450n and 3 660nm for a light. I still have the old Cree CW and should just use those. Gotta throw a couple Vero 10 in the mix.

I have recently got the fever back after years of not taking good care of the tanks. Dug the halides out of the attic but will still be messing around with LED

Interesting plant..
Now for an opinion.. Cool whites with poor CRI (less than 90) are good for nothing visually.
Probably more detrimental than anything.
In the fw world where you use more of the red/green/cyan you can get away with it a bit but in sw and at these prices, really should use better leds. The "its just white" thing so "as long as the photon counts are good hey why not use cheap chips, people turn them way down anyways". Sad.

Looks like most red algae will throw back a good portion of "normal" red (600-650) so best to use either those w/ your 660's or a warm white.
Or the PCAmber leds.

Luxeon C PC Amber

www.stevesleds.com

Rough estimate and the ratios are probably not correct. If you don't "do" dim-able channels you will need to experiment a bit.

myData pcamber.txt x1
LED RoyalBlue (450nm) x1
LED Green (530nm) x2
LED DeepRed (660nm) x1
----------------------------------------

* SIMULATION DATA
----------------------------------------
Luminous flux: 446 lm
Radiant flux: 1,675 mW
PPF: 7.71 umol/s
TCP: 7940 K
CRI: 85
λp: 448 nm
Color: #DED5FF

AS to quad core chips.. yea they currently make them and 12 core as well.
Russian company that may or may not exist..so just an example:

https://reefll.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=241

Semi makes the "chip" but others "package" them. The thing inside the thing..
Like those evilbay "bridgelux" eggs. Technically you can throw all sorts of different companies raw chip inside.


Soo I forgot what the Marazza looked like . Found this:

While I dig the the ability to angle the light, I think my favorite aspect is the quality of light spectrum. I’ve seen my share of LED reef lighting, and I deemed many of them to produce a very artificial and sterile light quality. I attribute it to the fact that most fixtures stick to cool white LEDs to compliment the blue. Maxspect’s inclusion of warm whites and purple actinic LED chips significantly improve the spectrum. Coming from 14K halides, I think the Mazarras produce a very familiar light spectrum. To me, they resemble the Phoenix 14k bulbs.

Maxspect Mazarra P, the Full Review | Reef Builders | The Reef and Saltwater Aquarium Blog

I recently shared the unboxing of Maxspect’s latest LED offering, the Mazarra P series. Well here’s the review. I’ve recently replaced the metal halide/T5 fixture over my 180 -gallon with the Mazarra…

reefbuilders.com

Only 12 years ago..

Thee is a err "scientific" reason for it..

 

[PeterErc]

Interesting plant..
Now for an opinion.. Cool whites with poor CRI (less than 90) are good for nothing visually.
Probably more detrimental than anything.
In the fw world where you use more of the red/green/cyan you can get away with it a bit but in sw and at these prices, really should use better leds. The "its just white" thing so "as long as the photon counts are good hey why not use cheap chips, people turn them way down anyways". Sad.

Looks like most red algae will throw back a good portion of "normal" red (600-650) so best to use either those w/ your 660's or a warm white.
Or the PCAmber leds.

Luxeon C PC Amber

www.stevesleds.com

Rough estimate and the ratios are probably not correct. If you don't "do" dim-able channels you will need to experiment a bit.

AS to quad core chips.. yea they currently make them and 12 core as well.
Russian company that may or may not exist..so just an example:

https://reefll.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=241

Semi makes the "chip" but others "package" them. The thing inside the thing..
Like those evilbay "bridgelux" eggs. Technically you can throw all sorts of different companies raw chip inside.


Soo I forgot what the Marazza looked like . Found this:

Maxspect Mazarra P, the Full Review | Reef Builders | The Reef and Saltwater Aquarium Blog

I recently shared the unboxing of Maxspect’s latest LED offering, the Mazarra P series. Well here’s the review. I’ve recently replaced the metal halide/T5 fixture over my 180 -gallon with the Mazarra…

reefbuilders.com

Only 12 years ago..

Thee is a err "scientific" reason for it..

Well, for the record, I am guilty of using the “cheap” diodes. As not a main light source I have had no issue with them. I have no problem slapping a 50 cent diode on a piece of aluminum with JB weld. Drilling and tapping is a drag, Running them on a 350ma meanwell or the $2 +-China drivers is budget friendly.
I had a fuge light years ago. It was 4RB, 4 660, 2 green, 2 CW on a piece of diamond plate. Forget which optics and exact Cree diodes, the meanwell was 700ma. I could grow dragons breath and blue Ochtodes like crazy.
The dragons breathe tank is not for viewing pleasure, strictly growth. Another experiment before an out doors venture. This is where I got the idea of the lighting choice. It seems Halymenia does well under green, so for 35 cents ea the cheap diodes seem fine to mess with.

https://www.researchgate.net/figure/Pigment-concentrations-of-Halymenia-floresii-m-g-g-fw-1_fig3_225450187

When I did the nano’s I used Cree and Semiled, the lime blended well between the RB and Vero. If for stand alone lighting , I see no way around using a high CRI chip.

I was mistaken the marazza with the razor.

MaxSpect Razor LED details of specs and components revealed | Reef Builders | The Reef and Saltwater Aquarium Blog

The newly announced Maxspect Razor is a hot and sexy little number that is getting a lot of attention from our tech rabid readers. Therefore we have gathered all the technical and LED details about…

reefbuilders.com

I do appreciate your knowledge and your time

Thanks