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I am also looking for leds for my tank 8ft by 3ft wide . I was looking at mars aqua 31 inch 300 watt on ebay . No offense rll . 6 of those are 1000.00 . Which is alot but the brang names are 3 times that or more . @jedimasterben what do you think .
You may want to try orphek lights. I currently use them to light my 48x36x22 tank. I have my lights at least 18" from the water. I'm getting 350 par at the bottom and it's set only at 50%. Good luckThinking about replacing my 400watt metal halide with radion. Tank is 37 in deep and 130 in long. Does anyone have experience with led with a sps tank this big? Will LED work?
I currently have 7 400 watt metal halides on this tank. My thought to switch was heat and energy use but I am very concerned that LED'S will cut it. I don't want to spend thousands and realize after not enough light.
If you're looking to get it done considering upfront cost first, then they are the way to go. I would still recommend a couple of modifications (such as removing the red and green LEDs, removing the lenses), and they're also easy to connect a controller to. You can connect them directly to an Apex VDM or, my personal choice since I don't buy into the Apex ecosystem, a Bluefish Wifi controller. How tall is your tank?I am also looking for leds for my tank 8ft by 3ft wide . I was looking at mars aqua 31 inch 300 watt on ebay . No offense rll . 6 of those are 1000.00 . Which is alot but the brang names are 3 times that or more . @jedimasterben what do you think .
The issue is mostly that you just need enough of them to get proper coverage. Or do a hybrid light with a couple of T5HO to fill in the gaps. How tall is your tank?I currently have 7 400 watt metal halides on this tank. My thought to switch was heat and energy use but I am very concerned that LED'S will cut it. I don't want to spend thousands and realize after not enough light.
I see comments like this every day but the data shows that LED is a viable option when you don't try to eke out every bit of coverage you can from a single fixture. You'd be surprised at how many large coral farmers have already switched to LED. I've personally helped around two dozen so far, from 'small timers' with a couple of small raceways to the largest having eight massive 24'x4' raceways and using moving rails. A lot of them are using Chinese LED panels due to overall cost and small cost of replacement if one failed.In an SPS system , other than heat and energy, you will not see a benefit in switching to LED. Metal Halides and T5 are still the best option for growing SPS. LED's are getting there but they still have a ways to go. You'll find the sales forums littered with LED units for sale, many switching back to MH or T5. I'm not sure what an LED system would cost you over such a large reef but it'd likely take a few years to recoup costs vs what you currently have.
If you're looking to get it done considering upfront cost first, then they are the way to go. I would still recommend a couple of modifications (such as removing the red and green LEDs, removing the lenses), and they're also easy to connect a controller to. You can connect them directly to an Apex VDM or, my personal choice since I don't buy into the Apex ecosystem, a Bluefish Wifi controller. How tall is your tank?
The issue is mostly that you just need enough of them to get proper coverage. Or do a hybrid light with a couple of T5HO to fill in the gaps. How tall is your tank?
I see comments like this every day but the data shows that LED is a viable option when you don't try to eke out every bit of coverage you can from a single fixture. You'd be surprised at how many large coral farmers have already switched to LED. I've personally helped around two dozen so far, from 'small timers' with a couple of small raceways to the largest having eight massive 24'x4' raceways and using moving rails. A lot of them are using Chinese LED panels due to overall cost and small cost of replacement if one failed.
Dedicated red and green LEDs are poor additions. They do not blend well and cause color banding. The warm white LEDs in the fixture cover far more spectrum than these two diodes do, yet for some reason they still include them, which is beyond me. Well, I say that, but I know the reason, and that is because the average person doesn't understand spectrum and will see that it doesn't have the green and red LEDs and think the fixture is inferior to one that does have them, even though that may not be the case.My tank is 24 high . So i figured 6 would give good coverage. Just wondering why you would remove the red and green . I know u have alot of expertise in this area . Do you think if i remove the lenses i would get better coverage. Thanks for the reply


for deep tanks you have 2 options 400 watt halides and asmuch as I hate to say any led ....... the orpheck leds are designed to go even deeper than that

