Well.. common recommendation is 2-3 sq inches per watt (calculate real watts, not chip rating) if passive cooled.
thus all the fins vs just bulk.
W/ fans that is way less..see heat sinks on "165W" black boxes (actual wattage more like 110).
Anodizing or even a thin coating of paint increases surface area and transmission of heat.
mostly for passive cooling. Not really needed for fan cooling but doesn't hurt.
Also be aware of your environment. Heat transfer is much more efficient w/ an increase in the temp differential between heatsink and ambient.
Like 110f heatsink.. air 72 vs 110F and ambient 95F
Calculating junction temp is practically impossible for mere mortals. "Common useage" though seems to imply about 110F on the heatsink should be a fair approx of safe zone..
Heatsinksusa carries fairly cheap real heatsinks. Unfortunately closed (sort of) atm from Covid-19
We provide businesses and individuals with high-quality aluminum heatsinks extruded and shipped in the USA. Visit HeatsinkUSA and shop our heatsinks today.
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Those Orphek strips are run around 500mA and prob. are only about 2W per chip.
Keep that in mind.
Good thing is CREE is relatively robust regarding heat though efficiency loss would be expected at higher temps.
12" = $6..
https://www.ebay.com/i/251934243617...MIk42IjYHG6QIVy8DACh07vAWWEAQYAyABEgJLWvD_BwE
1" wide 1/2" fins, Roughly 11sq inches per inch..
Recommend a thin layer of black lacquer on fin side if passive cooled.
Sounds counter intuitive but IR is color invisible..
Need to do some more crunching but heatsinks like this/ on a sq inch basis isn't really that expensive..