LED on 29G

smithben1983

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So I am setting up a 29 gallon in my bed room as a nem tank. I am thinking about building LEDs. It will be my first LED build. I am having a hard time choosing if I should go dimmable or not. This tank won't have a control on it so I don't know how the dimmable would work with out that for sunrise/sunset. Thoughts? Also what colors should I go for and how many LEDs we thinking?
 
24 LEDs max for a 29G. I used a 23"x4" heatsink from rapidled, but I really like their black 20"x6" and I would pick that one today with the splash shield and fans.

If you plan on putting the light right over the water like I did, and not use optics, then dimmable isn't a must have feature for what you want to do. If you were to hang the light a little higher and use optics, then I would say having dimming ability would be more important because you would probably want to turn them down. When you add optics it usually doubles the intensity. I really like the Typhoon controller from boostled for DIY lights, the DIM4 controller from ledgroupbuy is nice as well, but a little more expensive.

Personally, as far as LED choices today, I would pick 4 cool white, 2 warm white, 6 violet (make sure it is in the 410-430nm range), 8 royal blue, and 2 regular blue, no optics, and put the fixture no more than 6" off the water. The cheapest route without dimming, I would put the whites and violet LEDs on 1 LPC-35-700 driver, for 2 reasons, first is the Violet leds on the market today can only handle 700mA and second is you really don't want or need to run the whites higher than that. Whites are really bright and quickly wash out all the other colors which is why I think 6 whites total at 50% max power (they can handle 1500mA) will still light up a 29G tank fine. I would use a LPC-60-1050 for the other string. Or if you want dimmable, 2 ELN-60-48 D or P drivers, depending on how you want to be able to dim them. D model uses knobs or the DIM4 controller, P model works with the Typhoon.

I would really recommend spending the extra and getting the ELN-60-48P drives with a Typhoon controller. The controller makes it really easy to setup timers and how long the ramp up period is. As an example, string 1, royal blue and blue string, comes on at 10am but slowly ramps up in intensity over the course of 4 hours. At 1pm, the whites and violets kick on and slowly ramp up to 70% full power so at 2pm the blue string is at 100%, and 2:30pm the white sting will hit 70%, both stay on for however many hours and then each string will independently dim down. It makes a really nice natural lighting schedule and you can enjoy your tank more because it will be lit up more, just not intensely lit during dusk and dawn. It isn't a required feature, but for an extra $100 tops it turns a "functional" LED light into a much more feature rich light. No need to worry about timers, the controller handles it. You can even run fans off the controller so you don't need a power supply just for the fans.

Here was when I ran 24 over a 29G.
[video=youtube;fUlInNEgVwk]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fUlInNEgVwk[/video]

Here is a light I made for a fellow reefer last year for a 60G cube, this had everything on the fixture, and only uses 1 power cord for everything. Has 26 LEDs for the display and 4 moonlights with the Typhoon controller. All I had to work with was a dremel and a cordless drill so it isn't perfect, but I made it for free (person provided parts) so can't really complain.
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WOW thanks so much for the info! this looks great. I'm heading out the door for the day but will have a few questions when I get back home tonight thanks!
 
So I like the Idea with dimmable on that controller. I am worried about adding in green red and even cyan. Think its worth it or is that just over kill. I want to make sure all the different nems look good ya know, red nem, green nem, ect
 
My opinion, 2 warm whites on a 29G will provide plenty of the warm colors without needing red. When I made my first 48 LED light I put in 6 warm white LEDs and 6 neutral, that ended up being way to "warm" and I could never turn them up over 40% without making my reef tank look like a FW tank, so I removed most of them and replaced them with cool whites. I still have 4 warm whites on my 48 LED light and I feel it is perfect for adding warmer colors without going overboard. Warm white LEDs will bring out the reds of rose anemones very well, and any of the white LEDs (cool/neutral/warm) contain a lot of green spectrum so your green corals will still look great.

I put 4 cyans on my 48 LED light and while they add a different (missing) color to the overall spectrum, I don't know if I would say it is a good color. It is very strong and I honestly don't see any difference in the colors of my corals. It is also the one color I see in my "shimmer lines" on my sandbed, there is a cyan glow to the shimmer, and I don't like it. It is the only "disco effect" I see. My opinion on cyans today, unless your making a big LED light where you can put odd colors on their own dimmable driver, then skip them.
 
Moonlights, if you go with the rapidLED moonlight kit, get the 2 LED one. They are VERY bright for being moonlights. I put the 4 moonlight LED kits over 75G and they were way to bright. I had to take 2 out. My 75G is the same length as a 29G (30").
 
Okay cool! looks like I will go with what ya say there than! On the moon lights, that kit isn't dimmable than? Cause I worry with this going into the bed room and all.
 
Correct, the moonlights are not dimmable from rapidled and run at 350mA (~1w). All the moonlights I made myself in the past I used 1/4w LEDs and even some of those were too bright. There are many other places to get moonlight kits so don't feel that you must get rapidled's kit.

It would be nice of some other people chimed in with their opinion on LED options. I hate being the only one because it seems like my opinion is the only opinion, and that is certainly not the case. I like to see people get a variety of opinions so they can then decide what works best for them.
 
Nah I hear ya. I have been doing a lot of research into so I mean I know a little bit out there but I like what you have to say the best right now :)
 
Anemone Keeper sent me this information when I asked the same question for my biocube.

"For your biocube, I would reccomend either our value fixture ($199 shipped), or 2 of our PAR 38 LEDs ($89 each) Here is a link to more info on the PAR38: Reef Breeders PAR 38 LEDs
The value fixtures: Introducing The Reef Breeders Value Fixtures! Let me know what you think, thePAR 38 bubls will be the most efficient option, using only 9.5 watts each."
 
That won't work because you need at least 8 LEDs on one of those drivers for it to turn on, and then they don't turn on until they hit 20%, so 8 LEDs @ 20% would be way too bright. You can get a whole moonlight LED kit for less than one of those meanwell drivers.

2 of these and the power supply would work, and cost $35.
Current USA TrueLumen 3-LED Linking Module
 
If I do those moonlights than i would need a timer and I don't think they are dimmable. I am so grateful for your guidance with this. I cant wait to order in my leds and get to building! I have never done anything with small electronics like this and have always wanted to try my hand at it!
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%

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