Led, one channel stuck on in 2/6 pucks. Ideas?

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RevMH

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I have a Maxspect X r5. 6 pucks total, but in 2 of the pucks, channel two has 4 blue LEDs stuck on 100% power. Everything else works just fine.
Light is about a year old, Dimming works for all LEDs except the 8 total blues stuck on.

Any ideas?
 
It is a tough one to diagnose. One thing that I would do, if you are up for the task, take apart the light and see if there is any moisture/condensation on the board. Naturally, if the light is still in warranty do not undertake this. I am not familiar with this light but one of my Blaze X mini's had a similar issue and the culprit was condensation on the board. I had to replace the board.
 
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It is a tough one to diagnose. One thing that I would do, if you are up for the task, take apart the light and see if there is any moisture/condensation on the board. Naturally, if the light is still in warranty do not undertake this. I am not familiar with this light but one of my Blaze X mini's had a similar issue and the culprit was condensation on the board. I had to replace the board.
I appreciate the recommendation - I had not considered condensation. I already have it ripped apart... so now is a great time to check it out. The boards looked good, but that was just a visual check - about as subjective as measuring PAR with my eyes. :)

Thank you!
 
Good luck! Reach out to Maxspect. YOu have nothing to lose at this point.
 
Have NO idea of the circuitry in this but "in general" if a driver loses it's control signal (and not built w/ a pull down to compensate) the driver will have it's dim wire floating and go to full on.

From this:

It looks like the control board and driver board are separate.. Check wires (and plugs) from control to the driver board..one may be open.
Dim wires should be "light weight" as opposed to diode power wires ..

also could be a trace on the driver board but first things first..

Shot in the dark..Simple unplug-plug may work.
Power side seems fine .

This might help..
 
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Have NO idea of the circuitry in this but "in general" if a driver loses it's control signal (and not built w/ a pull down to compensate) the driver will have it's dim wire floating and go to full on.

From this:

It looks like the control board and driver board are separate.. Check wires (and plugs) from control to the driver board..one may be open.
Dim wires should be "light weight" as opposed to diode power wires ..

also could be a trace on the driver board but first things first..

Shot in the dark..Simple unplug-plug may work.
Power side seems fine .
Wow. Thank you. I'll take a look at this once I get home. One could only hope the issue is this simple, but with it powered on 100% of the time, this makes a lot of sense.
Flickering, failing, etc, would have been something I'm familiar with - not turning off...!?
I appreciate the help and direction fro both of you - means a lot.
 
Yea , no idea how it's dimmed (5V PWM, 10V analog (suspect analog w/ the plus/minus wires) good chance there is an open from controller to driver board.. well "I" believe there is a good chance.

Maxspect can confirm..
For those that would want to Bypass Maxpects control circuitry and use something else .. the dimming protocol is important.. se if you can get it.. please.. :)
 
I was going to say a driver issue, but you guys beat me to it!
 
Yea , no idea how it's dimmed (5V PWM, 10V analog (suspect analog w/ the plus/minus wires) good chance there is an open from controller to driver board.. well "I" believe there is a good chance.

Maxspect can confirm..
For those that would want to Bypass Maxpects control circuitry and use something else .. the dimming protocol is important.. se if you can get it.. please.. :)
Once Maxspect replies back... I'll see if I can get the information. Not sure if they'd be willing to share, but as @P-Dub stated, I have nothing to lose. :)
 
Just a quick update.
All the boards are visually okay (the ones one I can see, still need to dissemble the controller).

It seems that 2 other clusters, same 4 diodes, are dimmer (very dim with a slight flicker) than the rest. When I turn down any of the other 3 channels, they become brighter. I'm assuming the diodes on the 2 "bad" clusters are drawing too much power, but that's just a logical assumption.

No word from @Maxspect or CoralVue ticket center, but it's only been 2 days.

I have 2 of these units, one seems fine... this one has been used for less than a year.
 
Update:

CoralVue did finally reply, but the message only asked if I could order one of their repairs ($140).

Finally got to investigate the boards in detail... Found one of the drivers had a beautiful scortch mark. Looks like I found the problem.

Once the part comes in, I'll try and grab some screenshot to help out anyone who may be trying to repair one in the future.

I very much appreciate the chiming in, as always, R2R is great.

Thank you, @P-Dub @Flippers4pups and @oreo5457

I'll follow up with CoralVue, Oreo, but they don't seem to be in the sharing mood.

20200116_191109.jpg
 
That would likely do it. Scorched anything, No Buenoo_O
Wish I could have been more helpful.
 
Thank you, again to the people who assisted. I'm posting a real quick guide to anyone who may have a similar issue in the future, save you some leg work (and pay it forward).

This is a piece of cake, really.

The controller (far left, side with the display) and 3 drivers (300w model) are located under the four panels highlighted below.

Full Pic.jpg



Remove the 4 retaining screws holding the lens cap in place (screws are under the rubber grommet).
Screws.jpg



Remove the lens (just picks right up) and detach the wires and screws in the picture (2 screws).


Driver Removal.jpg



As always, to install, reverse the above instructions.

That's it. My issue came from a burnt driver (below), once changed, the issue was resolved.

Burnt.jpg
 
@P-Dub @oreo5457 @Flippers4pups

Thank you for all of your help.

CorvalVue doesn't have the correct part listed on their site (it states for 300W, but it's the older model). I opened a ticket and @Maxspect /CoralVue took care of me. No fuss.
 
Sweet! Glad you got it all sorted out and are back up and running. it's nice when a manufacturer/supplier takes care of you without a fuss.
Happy I could be a part of helping.
 

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