Led repair help please

[dcelrod]

I have an Aurora Aquarium full spectrum led light its a 165w (55 led's total). I accidentally dropped it in my Aquarium and needless to say it no longer works. I have been looking for drivers to replace the ones inside it so I can get it back in use but I can't find anywhere in the US to buy them. I did however find the web site for the manufacturer of them but it looks like they sell to companies only. It is remote controlled to set timers for each channel which is 3 blues, whites reds and green which are all one channel and 3 uv's which can be turned on for moonlight and they come on with the blues. I have tested the led board to the best of my ability and knowledge I hooked a battery to each of the leads for each channel and all 3 of the UV/ moonlights came on but when I tried the blues and the whites with the other colors they wouldn't come on but, when I tested them with the multimeter the blues and whites would light up from the multimeter voltage but they were dim but none of the reds and greens came on. Can anyone tell me what drivers I can use for sub's and also what the white box is with no label? It only has red wires going in and coming out and a 5 wire blade connector coming out that goes to the LCD screen and it looks like the red wires for the drivers is the 2 the bigger gauge wires exiting it . The drivers have a 3 wire blade connector coming out of them and plugging into a potentiometer.

 

[dacianb]

Normally LEDs can handle a water plunge and then recover once dried. If you have some humidity and salt on boards (under leds??) may have some short-circuits. It is risky to try out LEDs with battery (they need constant current, so you may burn them easily). If you have a constant power supply may try LEDs one by one (if you test a chain of LEDs will need the correct voltage - 10 LEDs will need 30-32 V and so on).

But this light is gross... I never saw such a light in the inside.

I would never put the 230 / 110 V source in a metal case, full of holes for fans above a tank full of salt water.... This is crazy.
Use some Meanwell LDD drivers, buy a 48V power supply (you can put it away from tank) and may recover the light in the end. If in this way drops, the meanwell drivers are watertight, and most decent 48V power supply can handle the shock of short circuit and recover next second .

 

[dcelrod]

Normally LEDs can handle a water plunge and then recover once dried. If you have some humidity and salt on boards (under leds??) may have some short-circuits. It is risky to try out LEDs with battery (they need constant current, so you may burn them easily). If you have a constant power supply may try LEDs one by one (if you test a chain of LEDs will need the correct voltage - 10 LEDs will need 30-32 V and so on).

But this light is gross... I never saw such a light in the inside.

I would never put the 230 / 110 V source in a metal case, full of holes for fans above a tank full of salt water.... This is crazy.
Use some Meanwell LDD drivers, buy a 48V power supply (you can put it away from tank) and may recover the light in the end. If in this way drops, the meanwell drivers are watertight, and most decent 48V power supply can handle the shock of short circuit and recover next second .

Lol yeah the wiring is a rat's nest the aluminum plate that all the led's and the diodes for each are on is sealed on the side they are on except right where the leads for each one are connected to it so I'm thinking they are good its just the power supplies and whatever the one with no label on it is are what's shot.

 

[dacianb]

The 2 big ones and a smaller one with 5w seems to power leds. The 12v one goes to fans and the fifth.... no idea. Some controller/ dimmer? If change them be carefull on polarities. Such epileds and no name leds usually cannot handle reverse polarities and will burn.
Good luck with it.

 

[ReefLEDLights]

Typical Black Box

The Driver is not UL or CE Listed I would not consider replacing it. Given the output VF of 70-100V you can replace it with a waterproof Inventronics Driver

Look for a 500-600mA one with a VF of at least 70-100VDC. The driver may cost more than the fixture is worth but at least ut will be UL CE listed.

Bill