Leopard Wrasse QT

mr11 · Jun 1, 2016

Ok so I think I've found my Potter's Wrasse source, thanks for all the tips in my other tread.

Now moving onto the QT process. I plan to have a bare bottom PVC pipe style QT with a sand container for the new arrival. Is this adequate? I know they like microfauna and I'm not sure how to provide that with this set-up.

I've heard to avoid prophylactic copper treatment with these guys and opinions on Prazi seem split. What other medications should I use or avoid? Metro?

If I place some liverock in the QT to provide pods and end up not using copper can I place it back in my DT?

Any tips on QT for these guys is welcome! Thanks

Downbeach · Jun 1, 2016

I've never done anything different than placing a container of substrate in the BB QT. I don't like to do any treatment unless it's called for. Here's the container I used, and when the QT was done I would place the lid on the container after the wrasse has buried itself, remove the container from the untreated QT, and place it in the DT and remove the lid.

eatbreakfast · Jun 1, 2016

That setup sounds fine. Feeding frequently will work instead of having a lot of microfauna.

I don't recommend copper unless necessary. I do recommend prazi.

As long as it is not exposed to copper or other harsh medicine(prazi is not harsh)then live rock can be put back into dt.

evolved · Jun 2, 2016

mr11 said:
If I place some liverock in the QT to provide pods and end up not using copper can I place it back in my DT?

And provided no diseases give rise in QT.

eatbreakfast said:
Feeding frequently will work instead of having a lot of microfauna.

Agree

eatbreakfast said:
I don't recommend copper unless necessary. I do recommend prazi.

And the same here. I always prazi, and never do I use copper. If something rears it's head in QT, I'll turn to other things before copper.

mr11 · Jun 2, 2016

Downbeach said:
when the QT was done I would place the lid on the container after the wrasse has buried itself, remove the container from the untreated QT, and place it in the DT and remove the lid.

Interesting idea. This would only work if, as you mention, you don't treat with anything like copper and the fish showed no signs of disease?

So what about using chelated copper rather than ionic copper like cupramine for leopard wrasses if needed? Any less harsh on the fish?

eatbreakfast · Jun 2, 2016

Chelated is less harsh, but still not great for wrasses.

melypr1985 · Jun 2, 2016

I ran TTM with my blue star leopard and highly recommend it. I also treated with General cure which contains both prazi and metro. That covers ich that can harbor in the gills without being noticed, intestinal worms/parasites and flukes. Mine did fine with that and it was a relatively quick QT even with the week of observation to be sure nothing else popped up that needed attention. I also provided a small dish with sand in it for him to hide in and keep him comfortable. Each transfer he got a new dish with clean sand in it. I took the used sand out and rinsed and dried it completely so I could use it again.

saltyhog · Jun 3, 2016

My QT live rock stays in my QT all the time. I feed it even when empty to maintain the biofilter. My Potter's did fine with Prazipro and went from skinny to chubby in QT. Bloodworms were what got him started eating but now he eats any frozen food I want to feed.

mr11 · Jun 4, 2016

Thanks everyone.

After a bit more reading around what are your thoughts on not providing sand for the first 2-3 days of QT to force the wrasse to stay out and get used to the light cycle and eating?

4FordFamily · Jun 4, 2016

eatbreakfast said:
That setup sounds fine. Feeding frequently will work instead of having a lot of microfauna.

I don't recommend copper unless necessary. I do recommend prazi.

As long as it is not exposed to copper or other harsh medicine(prazi is not harsh)then live rock can be put back into dt.

X2

For what it's worth the only leopard I cannot get through copper is kuiteri. I've gotten melagris, bipartus, negronesis, ornate, and potters through no problem. Several bipartus and melagris without trouble. That was cupramine and coppersafe IME is even safer for wrasse.

I do agree that if you see no reason to treat them with copper (obvious velvet or ich), perhaps do not treat. I only do because I know wrasse can survive these things for long periods without symptoms and bring it in to my tanks of fragile, expensive tangs and angels. If that weren't the case I wouldn't treat them with anything other than prazi unless necessary.

4FordFamily · Jun 4, 2016

mr11 said:
Thanks everyone.

After a bit more reading around what are your thoughts on not providing sand for the first 2-3 days of QT to force the wrasse to stay out and get used to the light cycle and eating?

I've done both. I've had luck both ways. They do feel more comfortable in the sand. I can't imagine forcing them out in a stressful environment they would rather hide from being a good decision. Burrowing for days probably doesn't require much caloric intake, so they're probably fine. I find that when leopards do emerge they tend to eat very, very well. In fact I see their heads poke out of the sand when they smell food a day or two before they officially emerge sometimes and the food is what coaxes them out.

That said I have had personal slightly worse luck with sand vs without but suspect it had nothing to do with the sand's presence and was just chance. Neither were bad. I've only tried using sand twice and gave up since I had enough success without.

eatbreakfast · Jun 5, 2016

mr11 said:
Thanks everyone.

After a bit more reading around what are your thoughts on not providing sand for the first 2-3 days of QT to force the wrasse to stay out and get used to the light cycle and eating?

This is what I do. It also helps in making sure they are getting enough to eat the first few days.

Downbeach · Jun 5, 2016

mr11 said:
Thanks everyone.
After a bit more reading around what are your thoughts on not providing sand for the first 2-3 days of QT to force the wrasse to stay out and get used to the light cycle and eating?

I've always felt that because of the stress they've been under due to the capture, holding, shipping, processes, etc., it was best to give them a place to, hide/sleep/calm down. So, I would place the container of substrate in there right away, and allow their biological clocks to readjust to the new timetable on their own.

Cment · Jun 5, 2016

I agree with downbeach but can see why eatbreakfast does without sand too. Both make sense and I feel it comes down to personal preference. I like all the above comments, got some great experience here. The only one I would add is to buy a new bottle of prazipro each time if you use it. Theyre inexpensive for the small bottles off eBay for like $6. Leopards aren't that bad to get through QT provided you start with one that's eating. I've never used copper before only TTM and prazi and had great success with the 5 leopards I've owned over the years. @melypr1985 how long have you been using general cure? Is it more effective than seachem metro and prazipro?

Cment · Jun 5, 2016

Feed live blackworms if you can and a variety of other small sized foods like cyclopeeze. Do this up to 10x a day, start mixing in small pellets after a few days and they'll be good to go.

mfinn · Jun 5, 2016

melypr1985 said:
I also treated with General cure which contains both prazi and metro. That covers ich that can harbor in the gills without being noticed, intestinal worms/parasites and flukes. .

Is that API General Cure @melypr1985 ?

melypr1985 · Jun 5, 2016

mfinn said:
Is that API General Cure @melypr1985 ?

Yup. The very same. Handy to have around

melypr1985 · Jun 5, 2016

Cment said:
I agree with downbeach but can see why eatbreakfast does without sand too. Both make sense and I feel it comes down to personal preference. I like all the above comments, got some great experience here. The only one I would add is to buy a new bottle of prazipro each time if you use it. Theyre inexpensive for the small bottles off eBay for like $6. Leopards aren't that bad to get through QT provided you start with one that's eating. I've never used copper before only TTM and prazi and had great success with the 5 leopards I've owned over the years. @melypr1985 how long have you been using general cure? Is it more effective than seachem metro and prazipro?

I've used it a couple times at the store and only once on the leopards since I only wanted one for my tank at home. It did the job.