Let it Snow, Let it Flow, Let it Grow

Dave, we are a modern Forum here and DO NOT NEED Photo Bucket to post/host images any longer....... in the icons above second from right is an image link that will accept directly from your PC files and post an image not just a link as that old RF site still does.


Cheers, Todd


P.S. NICE Work buddy, maybe I'll get to mine in the next couple of weeks.
 
Last edited:

QUESTION ??? Are you using a 'Spiral Down' or just standard Flush Bit with bearing ???



Cheers, Todd
 
Standard straight bit 3/4'' shank X 1''. I havent used the spiral yet, I am told it is a better bit to use. My straight bit is still sharp and works for me and my seams
 
Dave, we are a modern Forum here and DO NOT NEED Photo Bucket to post/host images any longer....... in the icons above second from right is an image link that will accept directly from your PC files and post an image not just a link as that old RF site still does.


Cheers, Todd


P.S. NICE Work buddy, maybe I'll get to mine in the next couple of weeks.

Are you not seeing my photos?
 
Are you going to put it back into your original stand??

Yes it will fit into the existing stand. A couple of small mods. No big deal.
I will be tearing out the stand to reframe the wall behind it (divides the laundry room) Need to run some plumbing thru the lower half of the wall. I will also gain 3 1/2'' in depth to the bottom of the stand.
I will mount 90% of the electrical in the laundry closet away from the humid saltwater under the tank.
 
Now that all the edges have been prepped I am ready to weld the seams.
Here you can see that I have the pins set in place, the wedges under the panel will assist in closing up the joint when the pins are pulled. I let the solvent sit for about 60 seconds before I pull the pins



I clamp a small square to the bench on each end of the joint to assure the panel does not move from left to right while the pins are being pulled



I made some jigs a while back to keep panels square while welding





 
I sincerely want to thank you for posting this up Dave, very very nice of you to share your Mad Skills with the masses here on R2R. Cannot wait to see this 'Bad Boy' in person.

Cheers, Todd
 
It is my pleasure Todd,
Hope it will inspire others to go that one step further.
I have some ideas for this build that I have not seen anywhere else. I hope I can pull them off
 
Yes it will fit into the existing stand. A couple of small mods. No big deal.
I will be tearing out the stand to reframe the wall behind it (divides the laundry room) Need to run some plumbing thru the lower half of the wall. I will also gain 3 1/2'' in depth to the bottom of the stand.
I will mount 90% of the electrical in the laundry closet away from the humid saltwater under the tank.


It sounds like there're a lot of things on the list! I can't believe you are doing all these on your own! I'm impress and glad you are doing this! When do you think you can start the tank? Best wishes and luck to you my friend :)
 
Impressive to say the very least! I have always wondered/wanted to do something like this. I am following and learning as you teach.

First question. Can you explain the mdf tape thing again? What is the purpose of the mdf?
 
rayn, the MDF is a pattern jig only for the router and provides a very smooth guide for the roller bearing on Flush Router Bit. The layers of tape provide a two-step procedure in smoothing out the saw kerf marks, 1st to smooth it out and 2nd to smoooooooth it out enough to get a great edge for solvent welding.


Cheers, Todd
 
Okay, if I understand this correctly. The circular saw or table saw leave teeth marks in the acrylic. The mdf is cut, but doesn't show or have the marks like the acrylic. Tape the mdf to completely smooth it out, then have the roller of the router bit ride along the mdf tape, removing the tape after each pass to get a smoother cut each time...eliminating the teeth marks on the acrylic.

So sweet. My wife is going to hate you guys when I build another tank :xd:
 

Well rayn as long as your Dog House/Garage is full of fine tools and/or machinery all is good .....right ??? A mini fridge and stereo doesn't hurt either.




Cheers, Todd
 
Tagging along... Very nice!
 
If you wouldn't mind, could you go in to a little detail on the pin method. I'm wanting to build a sump and I've not seen the pin method. Is it merely to allow the solvent to better flow between the two panels being welded? Just want to understand a little more of your process.
 
Since Dave is logged off and presumably working or maybe playing in his DELUXE Shop I'll answer above question...lol

Yes, the pinning allows the solvent to soften both surfaces for a minute or so before being clamped down for completion of welding. The pins/thin guage wire is easier, more precise and allows for better solvent coverage than shims will. Another thing I've noticed as a positive is that with the small gap in between the solvent seems to want to be drawn into the gap rather than run across the sheet or down the front edge.


Cheers, Todd
 
Since Dave is logged off and presumably working or maybe playing in his DELUXE Shop I'll answer above question...lol

Yes, the pinning allows the solvent to soften both surfaces for a minute or so before being clamped down for completion of welding. The pins/thin guage wire is easier, more precise and allows for better solvent coverage than shims will. Another thing I've noticed as a positive is that with the small gap in between the solvent seems to want to be drawn into the gap rather than run across the sheet or down the front edge.


Cheers, Todd

Todd, will this also reduce the micro bubbles that sometime I see on welded ends?
Thx
 
Thanks Todd (and Dave). I will keep following along. Having no experience with acrylic, this is very helpful.
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%
Back
Top