Leveling feet on tank stand on tile?

[Eye H8 Empty V]

So I'm redesigning my steel framed tank stand. Once we finish our kitchen we'll be laying tile for the flooring. Is it recommended to use leveling feet or just shims for leveling it? Will the feet crack the tile? it's a 4' 90 gallon with a 34 gallon sump. I'm working on the drawing now and will update this post with my idea.

Thanks!

 

[Jay Z]

Adjustable feet would be the best option. I’d do 6 for weight distribution. 8 if you want to spread the load more. Which it’s easier to add before you fill the tank!

You can also cut out the plywood subfloor where the tank will be and add Portland cement boards if worried about the floor flex.

 

[Lorenzo Angotti]

Hi, personally I have no idea if it would crack your tiles depending on their thickness, you could use the shims as you mentioned, but I I would use a thin ridged plywood sheet just to be on the safe side.

 

[LiveWire]

I have always used shims and have never had an issue cracking tile myself.

 

[foxt]

If the stand has feet at the corners, you're placing a point load on each tile, and depending upon where that load falls on each tile, what the substrate for the tile is (mud job, etc), it just sounds like it is asking for trouble. I have no practical experience with doing this, but I have done my fair share of tiling floors, and I know the lengths we go to to make sure the tiles don't crack under normal conditions.

It would be much better to have the entire bottom of the stand distribute the load across the tiles, and to shim it as needed so that it is making as much contact as possible with the floor. I do recall seeing someone take an alternative approach, and build a short heavy base that sat flat on a tile floor, and then placed the stand on top of that short base. Not sure exactly what additional benefit that bought them, but it is another approach.

 

[BZOFIQ]

As long as the tiles were installed properly you should have no problem with leveling feet and point loads.

 

[BZOFIQ]

Here is the best explanation using different methods and their pitfalls.

 

[sharpimage]

My 300 sat on 4 feet, on tile, on a concrete slab. No cracking of tile

 

[touchstone88]

So I'm redesigning my steel framed tank stand. Once we finish our kitchen we'll be laying tile for the flooring. Is it recommended to use leveling feet or just shims for leveling it? Will the feet crack the tile? it's a 4' 90 gallon with a 34 gallon sump. I'm working on the drawing now and will update this post with my idea.

Thanks!

Someone gave me sage advice a while ago- A section of roofing shingles are brilliant under a metal stand. Shims are excellent imho-Wood-also add to the dampening effect (shingles) of pump etc vibration that would transfer to your tile flooring and vice versa

 

[foxt]

My 300 sat on 4 feet, on tile, on a concrete slab. No cracking of tile

I believe the cracking standard for tiles is 250 lbs over an unsupported area or void of 1 square inch. 100+ gallons of salt water, plus stand, plus rocks, plus whatever else is in the stand, across four feet, depending upon the dimensions of the feet, that could exceed 250 / sq in. Tile on top of a concrete slab, sounds great! 16" tiles on top of a thin set job set on top of floor joists in a 100 year old house with enough flex, maybe not so great.

As someone else pointed out, as long as the tiles were installed properly (including allowance for subfloor flex, etc), and then the floor underneath is supported properly, could be ok. If not, might not be.

Should have asked at the onset - what's under the tiles?

 

[Eye H8 Empty V]

Lots of awesome info thanks everyone! The video is great too I'll make sure my tile guy knows his stuff.

I'm on a raised foundation so there is potential for flex.

I just bought a metal fab shop so this can be made any way I fashion. I can have threaded inserts directly into the bottom of the frame for the adjustable glides. I added 6 to the drawing for reference. The frame will be welded rectangular steel tubing powder coated white, with a pearl pigment added just for fun. It will be skinned with white laminated foam-core panels. The idea is that there will be recessed magnets in the foam-core so the panels can be removed easily and as 1 piece. I saw a picture of someone that created a frame with an integrated hood for lighting. My wife doesn't want anything hanging from the ceiling so I figured that I could just create some L shaped brackets to hang the lights from. They could even be adjustable if they're bolted on and not welded.

Any feedback is much appreciated!