Levelling a 230 gallon

Hugh Mann

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Building a stand out of 2x4s for this beast of a tank. The floor is cement, and ever so slightly off level, in both directions as the floor is sloped towards the sump pit.

Anyways, what is the best way to go about levelling it? I am concerned about shims compressing into the stand over time or rotting. Furniture levelers, but I am having a hard time finding ones that can support that kind of weight without buying 100 of them.

Has anyone experienced the above issues in regards to shims?

How do you level your tanks?
 
I use composite shims that are made of plastic and wood. They are available at home depot. I have never had issues with them compressing or rotting. I am using them on a 150gallon, 400 gallon, and 700 gallon tank stands at this time. For my last build I used them as well for all the large tanks and never had issues with them which is why I am using them again.
 
All 2x6 or do you have 2x6 stretchers?


Composite shims for the win. Level it MULTIPLE TIMES while filling and be prepared to remove water if needed for small adjustments.
 
All 2x6 or do you have 2x6 stretchers?


Composite shims for the win. Level it MULTIPLE TIMES while filling and be prepared to remove water if needed for small adjustments.
I will second level multiple times front to back and diagonally with the tank empty, partially filled, and full. Drain if it does not hold level and adjust.
 
I will second level multiple times front to back and diagonally with the tank empty, partially filled, and full. Drain if it does not hold level and adjust.
That's really the only way.

A cheat and waste of water but helpful is to fill initially with the garden hose. Lightly Hip check your stand a few times in different areas. Take note of the Initial leveling need.

My 180 was initially 1/2" over 6'. Started with the tank shims already built up 1/2".

I checked and leveled it every few inches of water.
 
Since you're building the stand yourself and (presumably) you know where it's going to go, can you just build it so sits level to begin with?
I'd think that it would be easier to build it level and make some minor adjustments than to build it 'properly' and make bigger adjustments.
The only issue I see is that if you ever have to move it, it's going to wobble in almost any other spot.
 
Since you're building the stand yourself and (presumably) you know where it's going to go, can you just build it so sits level to begin with?
I'd think that it would be easier to build it level and make some minor adjustments than to build it 'properly' and make bigger adjustments.
The only issue I see is that if you ever have to move it, it's going to wobble in almost any other spot.
I (think) I know what I'm doing and that actually sounds like a lot more work than leveling it.

Our eyes will also pick up on very slight differences in square, in a piece of furniture. It would be Super obvious to have a 72" span where both top and bottom stretchers are not parallel. That could obviously be fixed with a face frame and over mount doors, But the modifications of construction I think would make that just not worth it.
 
Hugh I used a rotary laser and measured and cut my legs for my stand. My floor was off a 1/2”. Set the laser to the deck height, and subtract for any plywood or framing. My tank is built in the wall, but this could work for a cabinet build also. If it’s a cabinet keep all moldings square and plum and cope the Bottom molding to conform to the floor. I hope this helps.
 
+1 on the high load plastic shims. I’ve used the same ones for different projects they last so long.
 
I (think) I know what I'm doing and that actually sounds like a lot more work than leveling it.

Our eyes will also pick up on very slight differences in square, in a piece of furniture. It would be Super obvious to have a 72" span where both top and bottom stretchers are not parallel
Full disclosure, I don't know what I'm doing. Woodworking is out of my wheelhouse.
In any case, they'd still be parallel.
I think this might make more sense. You have 4 legs, stretchers near the bottom and another set near the top (kinda like a workbench). Now, if you put that in the spot you're going to have the tank, it's not going to be level, right, because the floor isn't level. But all the stretchers are parallel. Now, if you trim the bottom of each leg until everything is level, you should have a stand that sits on the floor correctly and everything is level/plumb/square etc.
It's the same as adjusting the little feet on the bottom of appliances, except you only get one chance.

Said another way, make the stand exactly as you want it, then instead of shimming up the legs that are too short, cut a bit off the ones that are too long until the top is level and all the legs are making good contact with the ground.
 
Full disclosure, I don't know what I'm doing. Woodworking is out of my wheelhouse.
In any case, they'd still be parallel.
I think this might make more sense. You have 4 legs, stretchers near the bottom and another set near the top (kinda like a workbench). Now, if you put that in the spot you're going to have the tank, it's not going to be level, right, because the floor isn't level. But all the stretchers are parallel. Now, if you trim the bottom of each leg until everything is level, you should have a stand that sits on the floor correctly and everything is level/plumb/square etc.
It's the same as adjusting the little feet on the bottom of appliances, except you only get one chance.

Said another way, make the stand exactly as you want it, then instead of shimming up the legs that are too short, cut a bit off the ones that are too long until the top is level and all the legs are making good contact with the ground.
I totally get what you're saying.

I've built a lot of furniture and tried a lot of wacky stuff. Your eye will pick up on Everything being shifted. Your sides that were previously 90° to the top and bottom are still 90° on the top and bottom but are now 92° from the floor and 88° from the floor. Your eye will notice.
 

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