Light causing algae...

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Ang0202

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I have a 40 breeder with a 300 watt black box 12 inches above water. As soon as I turn it on I have algae. I'm trying to figure out how high I should move it. I used T5's before. But this led has got me confused I'm thinking 300 watts was a bad idea. Any suggestions from anyone would be great. Thanks
 
Around 5 months. It cycled fine with lights off. When I turned them on it got real bad. Turned them back off for 3 weeks. It cleared up. Turned them back on starting with just 1 hr white and 4 hrs of blue. Now it's starting again. I have 2 turbos and a lawnmower in there.
IMG_20200904_105157275.jpg
IMG_20200904_105208101.jpg
 
It's part of the process of starting a new tank. Nothing strange. The lawnmower blenny might starve if there's not much gha (green hair algae): they don't do well in a tank with little algae to eat (don't eat film algae like snails).

Start measuring phosphate and nitrate. Don't let either go to zero. If either goes to zero, then your ugly phase will go to a extreme PITA phase. Don't make drastic changes: slow and deliberate.

Consider getting a fish that eats mysis shrimp. In the first pic, a see a hint of purple on the right side that made me think you have a Royal Gramma.

What are your methods of exporting nutrients? A flow of nutrients (fish food in and skimmer, macro-algae, and/or ATS out) is preferred to stagnate nutrients.

What are you planning to keep in your tank long-term?
 
It's part of the process of starting a new tank. Nothing strange. The lawnmower blenny might starve if there's not much gha (green hair algae): they don't do well in a tank with little algae to eat (don't eat film algae like snails).

Start measuring phosphate and nitrate. Don't let either go to zero. If either goes to zero, then your ugly phase will go to a extreme PITA phase. Don't make drastic changes: slow and deliberate.

Consider getting a fish that eats mysis shrimp. In the first pic, a see a hint of purple on the right side that made me think you have a Royal Gramma.

What are your methods of exporting nutrients? A flow of nutrients (fish food in and skimmer, macro-algae, and/or ATS out) is preferred to stagnate nutrients.

What are you planning to keep in your tank long-term?
schuby, What does PITA mean? Google keeps showing me bread..
 
If you had started your previous tank with all live rock, then I understand why this time, with seemingly dry rock, it looks different. I've just gone through the same experience (started second tank early last year after being out for 3 yrs).
 
Started first tank and this tank with live sand and dry rock. I soaked my rocks with salt water, heat and power head for a month before setting it up.
 
That has nothing to do with the lights. The same spectrum that grows coral is perfectly capable of growing algae too. You need to keep N and P lower and have some consumers like urchins, snails, crabs, etc.
 
That has nothing to do with the lights. The same spectrum that grows coral is perfectly capable of growing algae too. You need to keep N and P lower and have some consumers like urchins, snails, crabs, etc.
This.... Light is energy, they cant grow if there is nothing to out compete them or feed on. Check those nutrients...

And if your nutrients are zero, they are in the algae you see in your display.
 
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A "green" stage is normal during cycle. As long as dont have light will not run its course. Just turn lights on and add some CUC
Do you see any coralline starting?
Try to encourage coralline for rock coverage to compete with the other algae.
You can buy some spores to speed up the process.
 
I'm adding Coraline to it. I have a 5 gallon full of it. What was left over from my old tank. I think I'm going to increase my flow. And get a new phosphate test kit.
IMG_20200904_121226572.jpg
 

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