Lighting for a 125

[roshi719]

So I'm trying to get some opinions. I'm going to set up a 125 it will have mainly LPS and softies in it, no SPS. What is going to be my cheapest lighting option. I am thinking of going with a DIY T5 canopy, I also considered doing a couple 250 halides with T% actinics as well though. What do You guys think, and do you have any suggestions on where to get them the cheapest, I'm on a budget after all.

 

[RyanG]

Cheapest in the long run or in the start up phase? Long run maybe T5s but I prefer halides.

 

[roshi719]

Overall cheapest is what I'm going for.

 

[Poseidon]

6x60" on 2 IceCap 660 ballasts.

 

[TomNeely]

T5 is the way to go!

 

[JGoslee]

I voted diy T5. You can get a nice icecap retro for around $600.

 

[jimmybling31]

either way. I would prefer only halides though. diy setup of course.

 

[Reef Pets]

Metal Halide only. 14K or 20K will give you the color that you are looking for without spending all of that additional money on extra actinic bulbs.

 

[Corals Mania]

Seem like you been around for awhile, and know the market price on the lighting. Realistically, what are you looking to spend? What is your preference, a fixture or retro? Do you have a canopy already? What is the length of your tank 48" or 60"? In addition you mention that your not going to house SPS, so why would you need 250W MH. If your going to have LPS & Softies and you want to have a combination of T5 and MH. 150W MH or HQI will be sufficient lighting, will also depend on the dept of your tank.

 

[AugustWest]

I have a 110 L which is the same footprint as a 125, but 4 inches shorter. I have 3x80W T5s on an IC660 ballast. I also have 2x96W CFs (end to end).

I love the T5s but the 60" bulbs on a 72" tank leaves me thinking that I am glad i didn't remove the CFs. I will probably add 4x39W T5s (2 by 2 end to end) once the CF ballast fails). I would then place the bulbs in the DIY 'pendant' as follows 80 - 2x 39 - 80 - 2x39 - 80. I would also add another cooling fan as the IC660 runs the 3x80W tubs fairly hot.

I did replace a 175 MH with the 3x80W T5's - I like the T5s better than the single MH. My other option was to add 2 more 175W MHs and run the three plus the CFs for actinics.

 

[eagleeyez5]

I would do Metal Halides with Vho{T12/T5} actinics for added color. I noticed that someone suggested to use 14 or 20k bulbs to achieve the color instead of adding the Vho's or pc's for color. I would have to dissagree, and say that the added cost is well worth it. My reasoning is due to the fact that my favorite time to look a the tank is when the halides are off and the actinics are the only thing on. The colors blow people away when they see the tank, and I say, 'hold on just a second and I will kick off the bright lights, here put these glasses on and watch', that is when I hear the 'ohhhh', 'wow', 'ahhhh'.......For me, the best part of the hobby, sharing it with others and peaking thier interest.

 

[eagleeyez5]

Ok maybe not the cheapest route, but I do have a 125, 72 inch long tank with a center brace.

I had 2- 250watt MH with hamilton 14k bulbs, and two 48 inch {overlapping} T12ho's made by UVD2Ology Super Actinic bulbs that run off of an ARO ballast....

I ran those for over a year, and just replaced both sets of bulbs.....then two nights ago I swapped out the 250 watt MH for two 400 watt MH with Coralvue 20k bulbs......

The only reason I did this is because I got the 400's for a steal of a deal while looking for a single 250 watt MH for a new project that I will be starting in the next week or two.....