Lighting Recommendation for Shallow SPS Quarantine tank

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Hi,

I have a Innovative Marine NUVO 24 tank that I will be using for SPS Quarantine. The (display) tank is 36 inch wide by 10 inch front to back by 14 inch high. Would you guys agree that 2 39w T5s would be enough to keep the corals happy for the 76 day quarantine period? (I do this to make sure that any Inch Tomont that encysts onto the base of the coral or any exposed skeleton has the time to hatch and die to to the lack of a (fish) host. If only to inspect and treat for potential coral pests I would do a much shorter QT.
 
Hi,

I have a Innovative Marine NUVO 24 tank that I will be using for SPS Quarantine. The (display) tank is 36 inch wide by 10 inch front to back by 14 inch high. Would you guys agree that 2 39w T5s would be enough to keep the corals happy for the 76 day quarantine period? (I do this to make sure that any Inch Tomont that encysts onto the base of the coral or any exposed skeleton has the time to hatch and die to to the lack of a (fish) host. If only to inspect and treat for potential coral pests I would do a much shorter QT.
I have a kessil a350w tuna blue on mine
 
Yes. The t5 you want will be fine.
IMO keep it low over the tank.
If you have issues , eggcrate or a rock platform to move them up.
 
I have a kessil a350w tuna blue on mine

Thanks! The problem is that this is a narrow but long tank. To go with Kessils would probably need to go with 3 x a150's. Of course, If it is not packed with corals I could simply re-direct one to the spot I want. I would prefer to save some money though. That and the fact that (for me at least) SPS tend to acclimate much better and faster with T5 than Led's.

Yes. The t5 you want will be fine.
IMO keep it low over the tank.
If you have issues , eggcrate or a rock platform to move them up.

Thanks! Great advise. I was wondering if I would need a 4 bulb fixture but hopping it would not be necessary as the heat generated over such a small volume of water could prove problematic!
 
Thanks! The problem is that this is a narrow but long tank. To go with Kessils would probably need to go with 3 x a150's. Of course, If it is not packed with corals I could simply re-direct one to the spot I want. I would prefer to save some money though. That and the fact that (for me at least) SPS tend to acclimate much better and faster with T5 than Led's.



Thanks! Great advise. I was wondering if I would need a 4 bulb fixture but hopping it would not be necessary as the heat generated over such a small volume of water could prove problematic!
With a four bulb you can hang it higher. So... trade offs.
 
Yes... I prefer going with a 2 bulb. Cheaper, Cheaper to run, less heat and less light spill. As long as it provides enough par to keep SPS happy for the 76 days.
 
Yes... I prefer going with a 2 bulb. Cheaper, Cheaper to run, less heat and less light spill. As long as it provides enough par to keep SPS happy for the 76 days.
K. Keep in mind sps is a broad term.

At about 6 in a good t5 and fixture will give about 200 par. So with two at 12in from the fixture you'll be giving about 250 par.

So corals that need more you'll want to be able to move up. I have acros that seem to prefer 150 200 on my long photoperiod and some the really like 500par. Those are actuall a birds nest. And a I've some branching monti that grows like crazy no matter where it is.
 
I was thinking along the lines of a Giesemann Razor fixture. They come with good reflectors. No splash guard but do not think that would be an issue as I would not have splashing anyway. My birdsnests tend to adapt well to most lighting conditions. Montiporas also grow like crazy. Acros on the other hand (tennuis, hoeksemai, tortuosa, millie...) are trickier.
 
A single T5 is not enough to keep acropora alive - I just did this experiment with a BP on a Phillips ballast. Over three months, they did nothing, started to go downhill and have all but died in about four months. I did not test two bulbs, so take this FWIW, but I would be worried about just having twice as many - the single bulb was about 50 PAR, so two would be 100ish. Four should be about 200, which is a good place to be. I would get a four bulb fixture.

The great thing about Coral QT is that bulbs can last for years if you turn the fixture off when you don't have coral in the tank.
 
Thanks for your input. I assume BP is ATI B+ correct? Dis you have any form of reflector or just the bulb? Also, at what height was the fixture from the water surface and how deep under the water were the corals? Sorry for all the questions!
 
It was a single light in a Giesmann fixture with the Phillips ballast. It has whatever reflector comes in them. I never have the splash guards on - they cut down on too much light. Yes, B+ from ATI. The corals were about 8" under the water and the fixture about 4-5" off of the tank.

Remember, you want these to thrive in coral QT, not just survive. Encrusting and new growth is a great sign that they are ready to move on. They also can handle the move better when they are thriving. I would over light then rather than under light them, all other things being equal.
 
A single T5 is not enough to keep acropora alive - I just did this experiment with a BP on a Phillips ballast. Over three months, they did nothing, started to go downhill and have all but died in about four months. I did not test two bulbs, so take this FWIW, but I would be worried about just having twice as many - the single bulb was about 50 PAR, so two would be 100ish. Four should be about 200, which is a good place to be. I would get a four bulb fixture.

The great thing about Coral QT is that bulbs can last for years if you turn the fixture off when you don't have coral in the tank.
You didn't mention distance to the light in your par quotes. And it's a geismann fixrure.


Check the ati site. They do list the per bulb par.
 
I would do 4x39W T5 if they would fit personally. For montis and such you can turn only two on, but with 14" Depth I'm not sure 2 would be enough for acros especially if you want to maintain their color.

Whiskey
 

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