Lighting suggestions for frag tank

Chameleon

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Hey yall,
I'm looking for your lighting suggestions for a 40 breeder I am setting up as a frag tank. Frags will be coming out of my DIY led lit display so I am a little worried about using a different type of light over the frag tank, but I want to her your thoughts. Right now I have 4 t5s for it, but am planning on putting either some metal halides or making another diy build.
I am more concerned with getting the frags encrusted and established quickly then I am with overall color. The tank is going to serve as a place for me to trade frags from my display as well as introduce new frags until they reach display tank status. It will be plumbed into my whole system.

Do you think fragging from an led tank and moving to metal halides as frags would cause issues? I know sometimes the converse can be true if you dont acclimate properly.
Also if any of you have the lighting you suggest for sale let me know.
If I go led I think I am going to try some of the multichip emitters just to try something new and be the guinea pig.
(picked up a few 10w panels to play around with and I am impressed, now I need to try out the 100w hybrid chips)

Still haven't ruled out the ebay 120w chinese fixtures either, but I like the fun of building so they kind of take away the fun.

Setup will be in the unfinished basement so I dont imagine heat is a real concern, but really wont know until I get it up and running.

Will two 250w be too much? I know its a lot of light for a little tank, but I dont think I'll get the spread with one.

Sorry for the long post ;) but I appreciate your feedback

-Tyler
 
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Chasing the Dream Giver, not the dream! Tonya
 
i have a evolution 3g 100w chinese fixture ill sell you cheap.
"Housing dimensions are 18.2" x 5" x 2.75" Unit has 3 fans built in for optimal cooling. Housing is powdercoated BLACK for a sleek look if you do not use a hood on your aquarium. Unit comes with 2- 8' power cord, 1 cord for each group". its an earlier gen from reefkoi
 
DIY LEDs all the way and don't look back!
 
Stick to the status quo stick to the things you already know ;) led would be easy to manage because the ability to dim and if u planning to go with the mh light just use tie screen to acclimate the light n yes it will allow the frag to grow faster tht away wit the right water param


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250w Phoenix 14k 24" above the tank you'll see some great growth :-)

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Had a 250watt radium with t5 actinics over a 40 and hand some awsome growth and color. I was actually so impressed I am debating on changing my dt lighting

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DIY LEDs all the way and don't look back!
Harry,
I know you have LEDs over your frag tank now and a lot of people get coral from you. Have any of them had problems acclimating your frags to other lights?

Anyone have thoughts about trying a multichip build instead of the crees? I was thinking 2 50/50 100w hybrid chips might do the trick, but am not sure if I want to go that route or stick with the proven cree chip setup.

Thanks everyone for your suggestions.
 
If anyone has had a problem they have not mentioned it. Seems like it would work the other way. I have bleached a few corals under LEDs that were doing fine under MH/VHO.
 
Harry,
I know you have LEDs over your frag tank now and a lot of people get coral from you. Have any of them had problems acclimating your frags to other lights?

Anyone have thoughts about trying a multichip build instead of the crees? I was thinking 2 50/50 100w hybrid chips might do the trick, but am not sure if I want to go that route or stick with the proven cree chip setup.

Thanks everyone for your suggestions.
i have some frags from harry, theyare doing fine, i have radiums and when i put them in i just put them on the bottom and gradually moved them higher.
 
Thanks everyone for the help. Nice to hear the frags transitioned well from leds to radiums. Now I guess it just comes down to multichip panel build or traditional 3w cree style...
thoughts??
I have seen those new drivers (meanwell ldd 1000h) that have come out for 3w leds since my last build...they sound nice
 
I agree. If I was not already invested in my LM3409 drivers I would definately give the LDD drivers a shot. From all the description I see I wouldn't be surprised if they didn't use the same chip.
 
would you go with the LDD 700 or the 1000s? I guess it comes down to which chips I go with as some chips I dont think like to be driven at 1000mA.

Also what is everyone thoughts on 'full spectrum' vs blue/white leds? My tank has done decent under royal blue/cool white (UVs burned out within 9 month) but I am considering my options with using more spectrum.

I always looked at it as white is full spectrum, but then again cool white shifts intensity towards the bluer side and I guess you lose some intensity in the red side.
 
I don't drive any on my LEDs more than 700 mA and that seems to be working OK. I have a mixture of royal blue, cool white, blue, red, green, violet, and cyan. If you use red be sure not to overdo that one. 1 red LED for a 19 x 19 rack is good without an optic.

I am far from an expert on LEDs and I'm sure many people will disagree with me. I just did a lot of reading before I built mine and took the advice of the people who I thought knew what they were talking about.
 

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