No idea.. If you are referring to farms it "seems" like there is growth and there is coloration and there is presentation.
Each can (or cannot) be done in different ways with different lights and different spectrums...
Lighting that won't need upgrading
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Each can (or cannot) be done in different ways with different lights and different spectrums...
OP
OP
JL15219
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I guess that's true but I just meant I didn't want them to overcrowd themselves If that's even possible
zalick
A cup of water and a dash of salt
Oh, I thought you were quoting Vivid Aquatics and their PAR values as an example of successful SPS growing. They used to, and presumably still use, DE Halides on their 800g sps system.
zalick
A cup of water and a dash of salt
Lots of successful photon tanks
Show us your sps tank with Reefbreeder Photon V2/V2+ light
Many have said that Reefbreeder Photon V2/V2+ light can grow sps really well. I want to know if the Photon can compete with the Radion in growing and coloring up sps. Please show us sps (or SPS dominant) tanks that use the Reefbreeder Photon V2/V2+
www.reef2reef.com
codycolina707
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I have the photon 50 on my 150 gallon with 2 of the reefbreeder bars love this light and it will for sure grow sps
No just for the idea of it seems PAR is relative .. sometimes..
My biggest "complaint" is that people take say 100W of AI Primes (which have the white channel dimmed usually) and then replace it w/ 200-250W of another light source and say how much better growth is.
Separating out the causality is sometimes not as straight forward as one thinks.
Even PAR vs PAR measurements don't work well since you are only taking a few spot measurements and assuming parity across the board..
Anyways nothing to do w/ the orig. o/p's question.
If one wanted a "long term" light with varying demands that is a strength of LED, maybe not cheap leds but buying an "overpowered" well built led and running it cool will generally give one the lifespan and compensation for higher demand later and/or dimming over time of the diodes.
Then again a few cheap capacitors in a power supply may prove me wrong.
Over time from an "observer" standpoint I've listed "commercial" led's weak points vs other forms of light and have made my own conclusions on what seems right and wrong with them.
Currently the Phillips CoralCare is the pinnacle of LED lighting.
Problem is it's not "blue pop" centric.
Did I mention how it looks to one is or should be a consideration. Maybe even above "optimal growth"
I mean you got to look at the darn thing and have it pleasing..
My outside opinion...........
Not getting into "better" .. seems to be a religion..
For the o/p personally throw a quality hort 4 tube 24" fixture ($150) and see how that works as they learn how to balance an aquarium (any kind).
The flater more dispersed light of a t5 will probably prevent light from being the ultimate decider in their success.
ONE caution is keep in mind it's only a 12" wide tank.
Raising a multitube t5 can cause a lot of light loss in the tank..
BUT it's your fine adj. "dimming"
Then "upgrade" later. Prob get a different tank, different dimensions by that time.
Economics wise a 4 tube 24" 5 yr old ATI may not have a very high resale value. Neither would most LED's though.
zalick
A cup of water and a dash of salt
100%No just for the idea of it seems PAR is relative .. sometimes..
My biggest "complaint" is that people take say 100W of AI Primes (which have the white channel dimmed usually) and then replace it w/ 200-250W of another light source and say how much better growth is.
Separating out the causality is sometimes not as straight forward as one thinks.
Even PAR vs PAR measurements don't work well since you are only taking a few spot measurements and assuming parity across the board..
Anyways nothing to do w/ the orig. o/p's question.
If one wanted a "long term" light with varying demands that is a strength of LED, maybe not cheap leds but buying an "overpowered" well built led and running it cool will generally give one the lifespan and compensation for higher demand later and/or dimming over time of the diodes.
Then again a few cheap capacitors in a power supply may prove me wrong.
Over time from an "observer" standpoint I've listed "commercial" led's weak points vs other forms of light and have made my own conclusions on what seems right and wrong with them.
Currently the Phillips CoralCare is the pinnacle of LED lighting.
Problem is it's not "blue pop" centric.
Did I mention how it looks to one is or should be a consideration. Maybe even above "optimal growth"
I mean you got to look at the darn thing and have it pleasing..
My outside opinion...........
Not getting into "better" .. seems to be a religion..
For the o/p personally throw a quality hort 4 tube 24" fixture ($150) and see how that works as they learn how to balance an aquarium (any kind).
The flater more dispersed light of a t5 will probably prevent light from being the ultimate decider in their success.
ONE caution is keep in mind it's only a 12" wide tank.
Raising a multitube t5 can cause a lot of light loss in the tank..
BUT it's your fine adj. "dimming"
Then "upgrade" later. Prob get a different tank, different dimensions by that time.
Economics wise a 4 tube 24" 5 yr old ATI may not have a very high resale value. Neither would most LED's though.
A. grandis
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BRS had a video on that and they think it could be done every 18 months or so.
My experience tells me that 12 months is the best time to change any T5 in regards to PAR and spectrum. This is what I've learned to keep my system running with optimal spectrum, and to keep the system without major changes.
I simply change 2 bulbs per week and don't change photoperiod.
A. grandis
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With T5s you will never need to measure PAR. It works perfectly.
My recommendation for a 4 bulb combo, generally speaking, is: 2 X Blue Plus, 1 X Coral Plus ( or a 10K bulb), 1 X True Actinic.
blasterman
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I think ive subscribed to every high end coral farm on youtube and pretty much all of them use LED. Most are using Radion because of cost per PAR.
Coral coloration is caused by intensity and nutrients. Not spectrum. We need to be done with this flat earth bunk.
I seriously suggest the OP check out the lighting show down comparisons on BRS TV on youtube. They give a pretty good objective comparison of all the mainstream lights. I see no reason to use T5 given how the Reefbrite fixtures trounced them in every category including coverage.
Note that A Grandis has claimed LEDs cant grow coral and other nonsense like infra red being required for coral growth. I would take his advice skeptically. Watch the BRS videos.
Coral coloration is caused by intensity and nutrients. Not spectrum. We need to be done with this flat earth bunk.
I seriously suggest the OP check out the lighting show down comparisons on BRS TV on youtube. They give a pretty good objective comparison of all the mainstream lights. I see no reason to use T5 given how the Reefbrite fixtures trounced them in every category including coverage.
Note that A Grandis has claimed LEDs cant grow coral and other nonsense like infra red being required for coral growth. I would take his advice skeptically. Watch the BRS videos.
OP
OP
JL15219
Valuable Member
Oh awesome thanks....Lots of successful photon tanks
Show us your sps tank with Reefbreeder Photon V2/V2+ light
Many have said that Reefbreeder Photon V2/V2+ light can grow sps really well. I want to know if the Photon can compete with the Radion in growing and coloring up sps. Please show us sps (or SPS dominant) tanks that use the Reefbreeder Photon V2/V2+
OP
OP
JL15219
Valuable Member
Awesome thanks for the input.... are that hard to program in regards to the spectrum?
OP
OP
JL15219
Valuable Member
Nice I was just about to ask if I went with t5s which bulbs to get... you read my mind lol.... one more question will t5s produce those neon looking colors that I see LEDs do?
In most cases if you ran a separate t5 "actinic" bank yes you could. Since most fixtures are a combination of bulbs whereas LEDs you can "target" a channel no not quite the same IN GENERAL.
Mercury spikes in green and amber (plus blue ) create a tinge of white in tubes, thus a "dulling" of the florescence.
Gets complicated w/ reflected color vs fluorescence.
Lighting Doesn't have To Be Overwhelming - Beginner's Guide To Saltwater Aquariums EP: 26
Choosing a successful light for your reef tank doesn't have to be frustrating, just follow our advice!
blog.marinedepot.com
Not guaranteeing all the info above btw.
You need the pigments present to express them for one thing.
I'll leave it to others to verify it.
A. grandis
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Radion sponsors most of those "high end coral farm on youtube" you are reffering to. Marketing strategy!
I solemnly disagree on color being "caused" only by intensity and nutrients. Spectrum (which includes PAR - "intensity") does have it's play. At least in my experiences. It's all connected! Quality of light isn't only PAR, or only Intensity, or "colors", or whatever you want to see separately.
BRS has their interest in selling. They are great people and part of the community. I do respect and admire their work. Love them, but that is the truth.
If the OP decides to check all the videos and to follow their observations he will choose METAL HALIDES as the main source of light, period!!!
Note that I've NEVER "had claimed LEDs cant grow coral and other nonsense like infra red being required for coral growth." I invite you, @blasterman , to quote me on that! You will have lots of threads to go through!!! But I've never said that. Good luck finding it!
I do believe that UV will be beneficial to corals' health, just like in the ocean, but never said you can't grow corals with LEDs. That would be stupid of me!!! I said many times I have so many friends with LEDs over their tanks. That's why I call LEDs Christmas lights... they do not emit same UV T5s and specially halides do! Sorry, that's the truth.
What you did here isn't nice! You are are trouble maker!
OP
OP
JL15219
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Yeah I have also seen the same on YouTube most used LEDs but I also always hear people say that t5s are best to deal with shadowing and what not... so this just makes it harder for me to choose a light lol
Yeah I actually watched that video (only the finale of the lightning show down) that's why I was kind of leaning towards prime/hydra and the photons at first, but I also think the said the t5 hybrid were a good choice if I remember correctly.
I'm totally new to reefing so that's why I try to ask all you experienced guys
zalick
A cup of water and a dash of salt
I missed where @A. grandis claimed LED can't grow coral. Can you cite that post?
BRS makes a ton of money selling LEDs. Do you think that might influence their take? They also have a video saying Halides are the best.
A. grandis
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Unfortunately not! Not the way LEDs blue do! Most blue LEDs will give you that famous "pop" that you see. But... the ATI Blue Plus T5, for example, and other actinic T5s will give you fluorescence, but it is different than LEDs. Almost the same to your eyes though. Try to look for pictures online.
If you decide to get the T5s you can still add a LED strip on the side for "pop". That's an option.
