Lighting Upgrade Question

[goldenhurricane2]

I have two SB Reef Lights (basic 16s) over my 55 gallon mixed reef tank. For a while I also used 1 T5 bulb to supplement (it sat directly on the lip of the tank while the LEDs were 14 inches above the water. Of course this was not very pleasing aesthetically. Recently I toyed with the idea of going back to all T5, but I decided to stick with my SBs, but also to add another T5 supplement and reconfigured my lighting set up (attached image).

In doing this, I have noticed that there has been somewhat of a cyano outbreak on the rocks. However, all my zoas are starting to stretch out like they may not be getting enough light.

I have my white channel on 15% and my blue on 30% and then I have a T5 on either side of the LEDs (both ATI blue+). All the lights are roughly 12 inches from the surface of the water now (although the T5s hang slightly lower than the LEDs).

My nutrient levels have not changed, still readying around 0 for nitrate and around 0.1 for phosphate, so I'm assuming it's the light that's causing the issue, but for all the zoas to be stretched out makes me think i need to turn up the intensity, but I also don't want to cause even more of a cyano problem.

What should I do to help with this?

Thanks for everyone's help in advance!

 

[mcarroll]

Using a light meter might have helped so you could keep the intensity more or less even across changes. You're probably seeing side-effects from light shock.

It seems like most folks run T5's very close to the water due to spread/intensity issues....how much effect on the tank do they actually have up that high? ...and don't they light your room up like crazy when that high? T5's are kinda too expensive to use like that....why not consider some LED strips that would be much smaller on the rim of the tank? (They don't have to be junky strips – as nice as you want them to be. With or without fancy effects.)

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

15% and my blue on 30%

that's very very low. Keep in mind cyano feeds on a lot of things. one is c02. if the light is low and photosynthesis is low in the corals theres a lot of co2 there. plus low photosynthesis means low nutrient uptake in the water as well.




You may want to use the fuge on a reverse lighting btw even though its a hob for the ph, esp if its a sumpless tank..

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

And yes I agree your likely not getting much from the t5 at that height.

 

[goldenhurricane2]

How much lower would they need to be to be effective?

 

[goldenhurricane2]

Also what intensity would you suggest I move my LED to be more effective as well?

 

[mcarroll]

Like I said a light meter is what you need.....a cheapie lux meter like the LX-1010B I use (just a basic model) costs around $15.

You can use that to assess how bright the surface of your tank is at various places under the old lighting system.

Then when you change things around for the new system, you double check the same set of measurements and if there are any big discrepancies, you can take whatever action you need to.

There's no "best" levels....as long as your corals were happy and growing before, then you know the levels were OK. But anything >10,000 lux is generally fine. Around 20,000-40,000 lux would be more normal though. Consistency is the key once the system is established and the corals are all adapted....forget about numbers unless you're making changes.

 

[goldenhurricane2]

Like I said a light meter is what you need.....a cheapie lux meter like the LX-1010B I use (just a basic model) costs around $15.

You can use that to assess how bright the surface of your tank is at various places under the old lighting system.

Then when you change things around for the new system, you double check the same set of measurements and if there are any big discrepancies, you can take whatever action you need to.

There's no "best" levels....as long as your corals were happy and growing before, then you know the levels were OK. But anything >10,000 lux is generally fine. Around 20,000-40,000 lux would be more normal though. Consistency is the key once the system is established and the corals are all adapted....forget about numbers unless you're making changes.

Thanks for the advice - i'll be ordering a lux meter.