Limiting Factor of a UV Sterilizer

IVe been dosing daily to keep nutrients on the up and up. Its just getting worse unfortunately. I think my next step is going to be the UV part. Blasting them into the water column and a 2 day blackout of sorts. I think my acros could probably survive a 2 day blackout. Im also ordering pods and phyto from algae barn this friday.
How much MB7 are you dosing and what are your phosphate and nitrate testing at? MB7 reduces phosphate and nitrate so if those levels are already low you’re likely making things worse as Dino’s typically thrive off of bottomed or very low nutrient systems.
 
I use the Aqua UV 25 watt and a flow meter on a separate pump in my sump plumbed into the second return in my 120, my turn over rate through the UV is 640 gph and my water is always clear and no uglies show their faces. I linked the flow meter I use below
 
In my experience with coolia in a few tanks, UV did nothing. They don’t readily free swim and may need coaxing with a blackout.

I’m personally in the mindset that carbon dosing is the ticket to beating dinoflagellates. I saw a recent thread/article on this forum that sold me on that idea: https://www.reef2reef.com/ams/dinoflagelates-a-disruptive-treatment.873/
 
It does look like Coolia to me, here’s a pic for reference. If you can, it would definitely be advantageous to post in that Mack’s group to be positive of ID, and they have a 36 page download on dealing with Dino’s.

Biggest takes to be aware of:

Balanced nutrients to help outcompete the Dino’s- they recommend 1:100 PO4:NO3 - Im running 0.1ppm and 10ppm
Dosing MB7 daily
Running UV 24/7 until a couple weeks after no signs of dino except for an hour after dosing MB7
No water changes until handled
You can siphon out what you can see into a 5 micron sock in your sump just make sure to not remove any water- this size sock will catch the dino cells

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Good checklist. Thank you. Luck would have it that the last thing I was missing is the UV sterilizer and put one on today. So here’s to hoping.
 
In my experience with coolia in a few tanks, UV did nothing. They don’t readily free swim and may need coaxing with a blackout.

I’m personally in the mindset that carbon dosing is the ticket to beating dinoflagellates. I saw a recent thread/article on this forum that sold me on that idea: https://www.reef2reef.com/ams/dinoflagelates-a-disruptive-treatment.873/
This is interesting. I thought I heard that anecdotely you should stop carbon dosing. I think the reason being is that it lowers nutrients and Dino’s thrive off carbon. I’ll give it a read though.
 
This is interesting. I thought I heard that anecdotely you should stop carbon dosing. I think the reason being is that it lowers nutrients and Dino’s thrive off carbon. I’ll give it a read though.
I don’t think there are many things that can outcompete bacteria. Especially since bacteria can use allelopathy. That thread is a very good read! They recommend to dose carbon at night.
 
I have a quick uv question…..if manufacturer states one flow rate for parasites and another for algae, wouldn’t the slower rate kill two birds with one stone?
 
I don’t think there are many things that can outcompete bacteria. Especially since bacteria can use allelopathy. That thread is a very good read! They recommend to dose carbon at night.
Got it! I guess if you are trying to increase bacteria reproduction then carbon dosing is a great way to kick that off. Seems to makes sense to me. I’ll give this a try if the UV sterilizer doesn’t do it.
 
I have a quick uv question…..if manufacturer states one flow rate for parasites and another for algae, wouldn’t the slower rate kill two birds with one stone?
I’m guessing here so take it for what’s it’s worth. Others would know better. I think the higher flow rate for algae is so that it can keep up with reproduction of Dino’s/algae in the tank. Running at a lower flow rate will kill the Dino’s of course but you may not see an appreciable effect since they are outpacing getting killed in the UV unit.
 

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