Looking at using LEDs

BigG10905

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hey I'm building my first saltwater tank and was thought of using LEDs instead of T5. My tank is s 220 (72X24X30). It will be a FOWLR tank with some Anenomes and Inverts. One of my buddies told me to go with LEDs and use buildmyled.com to get them. Thought I would go on here and get some smarter peoples thoughts. Thanks
 
In the long run leds are the best choice. No annual bulb changes. lower electrical cost and over all better lighting to grow just about any coral.
 
BigG10905

The Bins of LEDs are extremely important. Its the main reason why some Imports using the latest XT-E LED have a flat or yellow look. Here is a pic I did using two Different Bins of Cool Whites on my personal tank.
PremVSReg.png


The one on the right is the warmest bin of the XT-E cool white I could find and it was 5K the one on the left 7.5K

CreeXP-GSeriesColourChart.jpg


I would avoid less expensive three watt Bridgelux as if you run the performance numbers against the Cree XT-E and XM-L the Cree is actually less expensive in the long run.

For FOWLR you need a lot less than a SPS tank but not if you have Carpet Anemones, I would go with 135 XT-E LEDs on three 18" Heatsinks with optics for a DIY Project.

Inexpensive Chinese Imports work but they have a history of their drivers failing before they should. In this market you really pay for what you get.

Bill
 
Ok so where do a get these DIY components? also is it better to DIY or but a pre-made light? Thanks just want to get some info before I buy a fixture.
 
Ok so where do a get these DIY components? also is it better to DIY or but a pre-made light? Thanks just want to get some info before I buy a fixture.

If you DIY you have complete control on which LED, its Bin and tertiary colours like Reds or Greens. You can also more easily repair a failed component than dealing with warranty issues and sending a fixture back.

Unless you are fluent with soldering I would focus on a solderless DIY. It adds a little to the overall cost but is much quicker and offers much more flexibility than gluing and soldering. If you use the BJB Solderless Connector at any time you can swap out a LED within a minute.


Bill
 
ok ive looked st different LED options and am very confused. So sorry for all these questions but her I go. In 220 FOWLR
 
ok ive looked st different LED options and am very confused. So sorry for all these questions but her I go. In 220 FOWLR

Sorry hit the wrong button. Which light spectrum do I want to shoot for in my tank?

Which lights (blues, whites, purples, yellows, reds, etc.) do i want to go with?

How strong do my lights need to be if only keeping big aggressive fish and anenomes?

Do I go with 1 long light or a few smaller lights?

What angle do I need for my set-up?

Which sites or companies do you recommend to get quality lights? I am willing to spend the money a somehting light lights that will save money and headaches down the road.

Will these lights need both night and day settings or do I need two lights for that?

And with black sand (not my choice but to get the lovely lady on board I had to give on the white sand) will this affect the lighting in the tank?

And is there any little tip, tricks, or advice that will be helpful in this whole LED process?

Once again sorry for all the questions but I am about to start this monster build and with it being my first saltwater tank just want this to be as well done as possible

Gregg
 
Which light spectrum do I want to shoot for in my tank?

-Most People prefer 15-20K. A more Blue look might look really cool with black sand. Either way I would put the whites on one dimmable driver channel and the blues on the other. With dimming you will have ultimate control over colour temp.

Which lights (blues, whites, purples, yellows, reds, etc.) do i want to go with?

-Lots of debate and opinions here. I prefer Binned Cree XT-E. Here is a ratio on an 18" Heatsink will give you a 17K look and more than enough PAR for SPS. 24 Binned Cree XT-E Royal Blue, 15 Premium Cree XT-E Cool White. 6 Cree XT-E Blue. Skip the yellow. UV/Ultra Violet may add a bit more colour pop to the fish but I would try the Binned D36 Royal Blue first, you can always add them later. Reds are optional I have them and can easily live without them.

How strong do my lights need to be if only keeping big aggressive fish and anenomes?

-The stronger the better for the anenomes. I would try for at least 100 PAR at the sand bed or a 250 watt MH equivalent. Generally we recommend 135 XT-E LEDs with optics for a tank your size. Given the flexibility of DIY you can go with 1/2 this and concentrate more LEDs over the anenomes.

Do I go with 1 long light or a few smaller lights?

-Its your call. With three seperate fixtures you can angle the end ones to optimize spread

What angle do I need for my set-up?

-Depends on how high you can hang your fixture. The Carclo Ripple Wide are one of the best optics we tested and over a tank your size 12-18" would be optimal.

Which sites or companies do you recommend to get quality lights? I am willing to spend the money a somehting light lights that will save money and headaches down the road.

-Cant comment here but toss me a PM where I can.

Will these lights need both night and day settings or do I need two lights for that?

-You can go with a controller that automatically dims the lights or you can use timers and have them come on in banks.

And with black sand (not my choice but to get the lovely lady on board I had to give on the white sand) will this affect the lighting in the tank?

-You will have less reflected light but should not be a problem.

And is there any little tip, tricks, or advice that will be helpful in this whole LED process?

-Solderless if you DIY.

Once again sorry for all the questions but I am about to start this monster build and with it being my first saltwater tank just want this to be as well done as possible

No worries we were all there once. Just with the big fish use an oversized skimmer and battery back up pump or airstone. 8 hours without power can leave them hypoxic

Bill
 

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