Looking for a good heater and controller.

Dominic M · Sep 21, 2020

Hi (noob btw),

I'm looking for budget reliable heater that wont kill my tank. I've heard good things about the Eheim jager heater, just looking for a controller so it doesn't overheat my tank and stuff. Thanks for any responses : )

SteveEreef · Sep 21, 2020

Eheim heaters are fine. Budget controller - inkbird. Best controller Ranco.

Dominic M · Sep 21, 2020

SteveEreef said:
Eheim heaters are fine. Budget controller - inkbird. Best controller Ranco.

Ok thanks, there are many inkbird controllers is there a specific one that's good?

Coogles · Sep 21, 2020

I like the ITC-308S. It has a replaceable aquarium safe probe and both heating and cooling circuits.

Snoopy 67 · Sep 21, 2020

Only problem with Eheim heaters can be their length.

jda · Sep 21, 2020

Eheim and Ranco for me. Had too much bad stuff with InkBird and while they might have gotten better over the years, I don't care since I have never had a problem with Ranco in over two decades. Somebody let me know when vast numbers of people have an InkBird running for 5-10 years without any issues.

Whatever you do, set the Eheim to turn off just about .5 or 1 degree more than the controller. This way, if the controller sticks on, your Eheims will turn off before your tank boils.

christwendt · Sep 21, 2020

jda said:
Eheim and Ranco for me. Had too much bad stuff with InkBird and while they might have gotten better over the years, I don't care since I have never had a problem with Ranco in over two decades. Somebody let me know when vast numbers of people have an InkBird running for 5-10 years without any issues.

Whatever you do, set the Eheim to turn off just about .5 or 1 degree more than the controller. This way, if the controller sticks on, your Eheims will turn off before your tank boils.

What If your heater is set at same temp as the controller ? I’m confused if the controller were to stay on shouldn’t the heater itself shut off any if heats to the temp of the controller?

piranhaman00 · Sep 21, 2020

BayIte and any heater, I like using mulitple low wattage heaters.

Dominic M · Sep 21, 2020

Coogles said:
I like the ITC-308S. It has a replaceable aquarium safe probe and both heating and cooling circuits.

Ok thanks.

jda · Sep 21, 2020

You don't want to the controller to be on, and the heater not. Let the controller do the work and the heater as backup. If the controller is on, then the heater needs to be heating... not the other way around. This is why you set the heater slightly higher.

Also, put the temp probe of the heater in the tank, not the sump. If you have multiple heaters, then I like to put one in the tank so that if I lose my return pump, the tank still stays warm. This redundancy along with flow pumps being on separate outlets as the return pump can save a tank.

Dominic M · Sep 21, 2020

Snoopy 67 said:
Only problem with Eheim heaters can be their length.

Im using a 29gallon tank (19in tall) so it should fit.

Dominic M · Sep 21, 2020

jda said:
You don't want to the controller to be on, and the heater not. Let the controller do the work and the heater as backup. If the controller is on, then the heater needs to be heating... not the other way around. This is why you set the heater slightly higher.

Also, put the temp probe of the heater in the tank, not the sump. If you have multiple heaters, then I like to put one in the tank so that if I lose my return pump, the tank still stays warm. This redundancy along with flow pumps being on separate outlets as the return pump can save a tank.

Ok thanks.

Dr. Dendrostein · Sep 21, 2020

Dominic M said:
Ok thanks, there are many inkbird controllers is there a specific one that's good?

Get the one that has the sensor in plastic, not the sensor that looks stainless steel. I got the one that is stainless steel sensor and I had to coat it with plastic rubber. I don't have any issues but I did that as a precaution

christwendt · Sep 21, 2020

jda said:
You don't want to the controller to be on, and the heater not. Let the controller do the work and the heater as backup. If the controller is on, then the heater needs to be heating... not the other way around. This is why you set the heater slightly higher.

Also, put the temp probe of the heater in the tank, not the sump. If you have multiple heaters, then I like to put one in the tank so that if I lose my return pump, the tank still stays warm. This redundancy along with flow pumps being on separate outlets as the return pump can save a tank.

Thanks you that makes a lot of sense. One other question if you don’t mind. My controller temp reads 2 degrees higher than what my thermometer. Is that a problem or should I just adjust the controller temp 2 degrees higher to accommodate ?

jda · Sep 21, 2020

Either works. Make sure that it does not drift. Outside of Ranco, I would be checking it monthly with something with Mercury in it. I would be checking a Ranco every 3-6 months.

fearless_fish · Sep 21, 2020

I use a cobalt 150 watt on my 30 gallon tank

christwendt · Sep 21, 2020

jda said:
Either works. Make sure that it does not drift. Outside of Ranco, I would be checking it monthly with something with Mercury in it. I would be checking a Ranco every 3-6 months.

Is this the Ranco controller ?

tidefanjam · Sep 21, 2020

I use the aqualogic controller with BRS titanium heating elements, and a inkbird as overtemp control.

jda · Sep 21, 2020

christwendt said:
Is this the Ranco controller ?

Yes. You will need to buy an extension cord and wire that one - it is easy.

They make a dual stage one too that you can use to turn on a fan (or chiller) if you have heat problems. It is more money, but worth it if you think that this might be you some day.

christwendt · Sep 22, 2020

jda said:
Yes. You will need to buy an extension cord and wire that one - it is easy.

They make a dual stage one too that you can use to turn on a fan (or chiller) if you have heat problems. It is more money, but worth it if you think that this might be you some day.

An extension cord and wire that one? I have to modify it by wiring lol? Maybe I should just get an apex that essentially is the same but better right ?