Looking for a UV sterilizer for a 210g

[jsvand5]

Any recommendations for a good brand for my size tank? Not looking for something too crazy expensive but I definitely want one that is rated for around 250g

 

[LAReefer4Life]

AQUA UV and Pentair Aquatics brands are the best! I have a 57 watt aqua and 40 watt pentair on 160 gallon. It really depends on what you're looking to accomplish. Definitely better to 2-3x tank volume size up if you want it to be effective against protozoa.

 

[Fiesty]

I have the aqua uv 57 watt compact and been very happy with it. Nice small size and well made. Easy to service / clean.

Id highly recommend it.

 

[Fiesty]

And i run the 57 watt on a 220 gallon system so similar size to yours.

 

[Sarah24!]

Hello,

Most of the ones people have or list even marine depot are only level c. Which is a clarifier only and has very minor effect if any on bacteria viruses and parasites. If you want that taken care of it’s best to get a level a or b steralizer and some come with ozone which is even better. Level a or aka 1 will kill any virus bacteria and parasites including marine ick and velvet etc but only free swimming stages. Level b does also but not as effective and level c definitely won’t kill them. I have ordered one (hasn’t come yet but excited to see when it does. Also make sure you place them vertical for longer exposure time and that you have a dedicated dc pump just for it. From the research I have done, read and seen files on, plumbing it Into a return line has shown that the flow is not as optimal.

Since mine will be too large for my sump on my 240 gallon tank I went with 160 watt version. Then I will have the ozone generator set up as well to help prevent anything as well. This is nice because you can run the ozone in with it or bypass it. Mine was about 775 but it’s also a level A so substantial better than anything marine depot can even offer. The uvc steralizers at pet smart aka green killing machines that are (used 2 for my tank) 70 each are still more powerful clarifier than those and they come with their own pump and system so the flow is right on.

 

[lapin]

I use this on my 500G +
http://www.americanaquariumproducts.com/TMCUVSterilizer.html#110watttmc

 

[RobW]

Hello,

Most of the ones people have or list even marine depot are only level c. Which is a clarifier only and has very minor effect if any on bacteria viruses and parasites. If you want that taken care of it’s best to get a level a or b steralizer and some come with ozone which is even better. Level a or aka 1 will kill any virus bacteria and parasites including marine ick and velvet etc but only free swimming stages. Level b does also but not as effective and level c definitely won’t kill them. I have ordered one (hasn’t come yet but excited to see when it does. Also make sure you place them vertical for longer exposure time and that you have a dedicated dc pump just for it. From the research I have done, read and seen files on, plumbing it Into a return line has shown that the flow is not as optimal.

Since mine will be too large for my sump on my 240 gallon tank I went with 160 watt version. Then I will have the ozone generator set up as well to help prevent anything as well. This is nice because you can run the ozone in with it or bypass it. Mine was about 775 but it’s also a level A so substantial better than anything marine depot can even offer. The uvc steralizers at pet smart aka green killing machines that are (used 2 for my tank) 70 each are still more powerful clarifier than those and they come with their own pump and system so the flow is right on.

Nice setup! How do you have it plumbed in? Is it coming g from you sump then directly to the tank or do you recycle it into the sump again. Which is a more effective means of plumbing it in. On my old tank I had it coming from the return section of my sump through the the sterilizer than back into the drain section of the sump. Not sure if it was the most effective means but, I never had an issue with clarity or illness in the tank. I am in the middle of building a 280 and am planning on running sterilizers on it.

 

[JoshH]

Hello,

Most of the ones people have or list even marine depot are only level c. Which is a clarifier only and has very minor effect if any on bacteria viruses and parasites. If you want that taken care of it’s best to get a level a or b steralizer and some come with ozone which is even better. Level a or aka 1 will kill any virus bacteria and parasites including marine ick and velvet etc but only free swimming stages. Level b does also but not as effective and level c definitely won’t kill them. I have ordered one (hasn’t come yet but excited to see when it does. Also make sure you place them vertical for longer exposure time and that you have a dedicated dc pump just for it. From the research I have done, read and seen files on, plumbing it Into a return line has shown that the flow is not as optimal.

Since mine will be too large for my sump on my 240 gallon tank I went with 160 watt version. Then I will have the ozone generator set up as well to help prevent anything as well. This is nice because you can run the ozone in with it or bypass it. Mine was about 775 but it’s also a level A so substantial better than anything marine depot can even offer. The uvc steralizers at pet smart aka green killing machines that are (used 2 for my tank) 70 each are still more powerful clarifier than those and they come with their own pump and system so the flow is right on.

Hey @Sarah24!

I am curious as to the levels you describe, theoretically the ability of a UV system to kill pathogens is mostly based on contact time with the UV. This is mostly controlled by the flow through the UV. Therefor any UV system as long as the flow is tuned properly to the size and wattage of the bulb can kill pathogens. Correct me if I am wrong on this but I've never heard of this grading system and would like to know more on it.

Obviously the Ozone gives this unit a distinct advantage over regular UVs but I don't see the bulb inside being THAT much different than other hobby UV systems..

Thanks!

 

[RobW]

I was actually going to run dual 40 watt pentairs. My total system volume will be about 360-380 gallons if you count the tank, sump, bio-reactor, skimmer and media reactors.

 

[jsvand5]

I use this on my 500G +
http://www.americanaquariumproducts.com/TMCUVSterilizer.html#110watttmc

What kind of flow rate do you run through it? What is the length? My tank is six feet long. I’m assuming I’d have to remove it from the stand to change bulbs.

 

[Sarah24!]

Hello,

So all of level c uv steralizers have a bulb of 254nm which clarifies water level a and b have 185nm bulb. The level a bulbs range as low as 185 and up to 254 where as level c only use 254nm bulbs. The other difference is the spacing between the bulb and quartz also changes the wavelength and the quartz is also a higher material to help it keep the wavelength and travel time as pattern going around the bulb. Generally if you were to take a standard level A on a pond or green tank it would take up to 2 hours to completely clarify it and steralizer it (granted all water goes through). In a uvc that can range from 24 hours or longer with the typical ones from marine depot pet smart etc. yes there are better level uvc but as far as bacterial viruses and parasites they are all the same.

There is an article (fish lore and facts about uv steralizers (trying to find the printed source and date), but “"Ultra violet sterilization is one of the most effective means of disease prevention in aquariums and ponds and for general water quality control in aquariums and ponds, which is part of where a properly installed UV Sterilizer helps provide improves a fish’ chances in fighting diseases such as ich. Part of the reason for UV Sterilization (which is often missed) is that the UVC radiation which is contained in the unit will break down oxidizers in the water column that would otherwise lower a fish’ immunity (Redox Reduction), this aspect is often missed as many only focus on the germicidal/algaecidal properties of UV Sterilizers”. (From fish lore (however the reference page isn’t coming up andnor date of source used)

This article has even stated that the idea of uv has not been used properly. If controlling alage and germs then yes uvc works fine. However with out the difference in quartz and the lower range bulb wave length going down to 185nm the uv won’t destroy parts of the dna and prevent diseases etc. with that said it should be noted that other research teams have shown (truth about uv steralizers article by marine depot), shows that there is so much plankton in our tanks and they are prime breeding grounds they say any uv is ineffective. (It won’t even let me copy and paste the source but of one wants to read it search truth about uv steralizers and it’s one listed by marine depot). At the same other research had shown that because of health reasons for humans and water level A and B were designed to do what we want kill bacteria viruses and parasites. Most true uv are only on commercial sized units doing massive water systems. In terms of reality it took me some time to even find the one I ordered for my tank and it’s through waterth.com . With that said it took them forever to even get back to me and even some of the people I spoke to there were not even sure what a fish tank was not alone a uv steralizer. However, finally getting to one of the techs etc was when I was finally able to get some answers I could verify. Which is also why I went with the ozone module one as well, just in case the uv won’t kill them, the ozone definitely will. With that said there are risks and precautionary one most be certain in with ozone induced modules and generators. I have tried to get info from even marine depot on their ozone generators etc and at best is I don’t know let’s try it (wanna use debit or credit lol). So it’s been hard and frustrating to get answers and correct ones.

 

[ca1ore]

I use this on my 500G +
http://www.americanaquariumproducts.com/TMCUVSterilizer.html#110watttmc

The aqua UV and pentair units are certainly the most common ones in the hobby and though often cited as being ‘the best’, I’m not sure exactly what data there is to support the claim. Frankly, they seem overpriced for what you get. I also use the TMC110. I’ve no idea whether it is the best or not, but it certainly seemed to me to be good value for your $$. Even if you decide to go with something else, the site linked by Lapin has some excellent resources and takes the time to explain various levels of sterilization. I’m running approx 1,000 gph through my unit (so around 10 gallons per watt per hour). The only real downside to the TMC110 is its physical size.

 

[Jet915]

I have a 40w pentair for my 100 gallon system, run uv 24/7, works great.

 

[jsvand5]

The aqua UV and pentair units are certainly the most common ones in the hobby and though often cited as being ‘the best’, I’m not sure exactly what data there is to support the claim. Frankly, they seem overpriced for what you get. I also use the TMC110. I’ve no idea whether it is the best or not, but it certainly seemed to me to be good value for your $$. Even if you decide to go with something else, the site linked by Lapin has some excellent resources and takes the time to explain various levels of sterilization. I’m running approx 1,000 gph through my unit (so around 10 gallons per watt per hour). The only real downside to the TMC110 is its physical size.

Do you think the TMC 55 would be sufficient for a 210g system? There isn’t really a huge price difference so I’d rather be sure if it’s questionable. Just thinking about space under the tank more than anything.

 

[ca1ore]

I would think so. More a function what you want it to do for you, and whether you can fit the proper flow. Figure with the 55 watt unit you’d be looking at around 500 gph to get the highest level ofvstetilization.

 

[jsvand5]

I would think so. More a function what you want it to do for you, and whether you can fit the proper flow. Figure with the 55 watt unit you’d be looking at around 500 gph to get the highest level ofvstetilization.

I talked with the company. They recommend the bigger more expensive one (of course). My issue now is that I don’t think I even have 1000gph going through my sump. I’d like to plumb the drain to go through the sterilizer but I run a herbie style drain. I assume the horizontal runs would screw up the herbie?

 

[Sarah24!]

I talked with the company. They recommend the bigger more expensive one (of course). My issue now is that I don’t think I even have 1000gph going through my sump. I’d like to plumb the drain to go through the sterilizer but I run a herbie style drain. I assume the horizontal runs would screw up the herbie?

Hello,

The smaller one will work, but again using their own words abasing them. Their bulbs and design are so much higher that you can put a smaller one on a larger tank and still be effective. Is it ideal no, will it work yes. In terms of flow, I have had one to my system as well. I have dual return pumps each at 3200 gph and are dc. I left them alone and I bought another dc pump smaller and piped it directly into the steralizer. I then used a flex hose to drop directly into the last return chamber. I can control speed up or down my flow with the dc pump and the pump sits right in the of the range they want. It can go slower than what they want and or higher. So as long as I set the control right in the middle flow should be fine. Mine was to large to fit under my tank or in my sump area. Sadly I had to mount it behind the tank and suspend and support it. I’m not found of this idea especially if it ever leaks. It’s going to hit the floor and just make a mess. Plus I have power supplies and cords that look similar to me brush my hair with an electric egg beater. They are not small but great to have and worth the money. Make sure you have easy access to it, so you can change the bulbs and quartz or crystal sleeves. This is the main reason I had to mount outside my tank. I did have a plumber actually do the plumbing, but I’m still waiting for my ozone generator and what not to finish it. So I have most of it ready but you should be fine with that one. Not to mention it’s smaller and you may be able to. It’s ideal to mount horizontal because air escapes. Some have said vertical is best because it gives them longer dwell time because it works against gravity. However it would also possibly trap air at the end and part of the bulb would not have water going over it. Definitely plan this out before you install it, again make sure you can get to all the bulbs etc to change them out.

 

[jsvand5]

Hello,

The smaller one will work, but again using their own words abasing them. Their bulbs and design are so much higher that you can put a smaller one on a larger tank and still be effective. Is it ideal no, will it work yes. In terms of flow, I have had one to my system as well. I have dual return pumps each at 3200 gph and are dc. I left them alone and I bought another dc pump smaller and piped it directly into the steralizer. I then used a flex hose to drop directly into the last return chamber. I can control speed up or down my flow with the dc pump and the pump sits right in the of the range they want. It can go slower than what they want and or higher. So as long as I set the control right in the middle flow should be fine. Mine was to large to fit under my tank or in my sump area. Sadly I had to mount it behind the tank and suspend and support it. I’m not found of this idea especially if it ever leaks. It’s going to hit the floor and just make a mess. Plus I have power supplies and cords that look similar to me brush my hair with an electric egg beater. They are not small but great to have and worth the money. Make sure you have easy access to it, so you can change the bulbs and quartz or crystal sleeves. This is the main reason I had to mount outside my tank. I did have a plumber actually do the plumbing, but I’m still waiting for my ozone generator and what not to finish it. So I have most of it ready but you should be fine with that one. Not to mention it’s smaller and you may be able to. It’s ideal to mount horizontal because air escapes. Some have said vertical is best because it gives them longer dwell time because it works against gravity. However it would also possibly trap air at the end and part of the bulb would not have water going over it. Definitely plan this out before you install it, again make sure you can get to all the bulbs etc to change them out.

Thanks. I’ll probably hook it up similar to how you have yours with it’s own dedicated pump in the first section of the sump pumping water to the return section. I was hoping to get 100% of the drain water to go through the UV but I imagine if I put the pump right under the drain I’ll still get a high percentage going through the UV. My plan is to attach it to inside the stand hanging from the the underside of the tank basically. Hopefully it won’t end up being too much of a hassle having it there.

 

[roberthu526]

I run two 120W Emperor aquatics smart HO units on my 300G. It is probably an overkill but I don’t want to risk it. One of these should be sufficient for your system.

 

[Sarah24!]

Thanks. I’ll probably hook it up similar to how you have yours with it’s own dedicated pump in the first section of the sump pumping water to the return section. I was hoping to get 100% of the drain water to go through the UV but I imagine if I put the pump right under the drain I’ll still get a high percentage going through the UV. My plan is to attach it to inside the stand hanging from the the underside of the tank basically. Hopefully it won’t end up being too much of a hassle having it there.

Hello,

I was trying to do that as well but I run mine 24/7, eventually it’s going to go through it. In addition it only helps as a preventive which if I never get marine velvet or ick then I’m very blessed. On a side note lol, ahh make sure you can still get that in and out easily. You have to move the bulbs out every six months, and they are about 36 inches I think long. If you use hard piping it won’t allow you to move it unless you unhook everything. Went with hard lines and glued, but placing mine on the back side of the tank. Going to pray like heck it never leaks. It will have direct access to my sump, so worse case 20 gallons or errr more on the floor lol. But hopefully the professional plumber that did the piping actually knows what he is doing. I’m lucky that I placed it horizontally because getting behind my tank now is a problem alone. Still need to change where power supplies sit before final install. They are currently Velcro to the back of my tank glass. I have so many it was like a stack of bricks. But I have no way to move them away from the tank anyway, so may as well. Now with the uv I will have to move the power supplies either higher or get creative since I have 17 of them on my tank soon 18.