Looking for low GPH powerhead for 5g tank

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Hey guys, I'm on the hunt for the following powerhead to help add a bit more flow in my 5 gallon tank:

- Low profile
- Ability to tune to sub 100gph
- Low noise
- Doesn't cost the farm

I saw Jebao SLW which seemed to fit the bill, but if there are opinions about that, and if it can go as low as my expectations for GPH, or if there are any others you guys would recommend, that would be greatly appreciated!
 
Hygger makes one that is very tiny.
Do you have a link or a model number? Nothing on their site resembled something low profile like the above-mentioned one.
 
Do you have a link or a model number? Nothing on their site resembled something low profile like the above-mentioned one.


There are anemone guards available for them too. I have the SLW-20 and 30 but not the 10. They work well but be cautious of the more open backs on puck style wavemakers.
 

There are anemone guards available for them too. I have the SLW-20 and 30 but not the 10. They work well but be cautious of the more open backs on puck style wavemakers.
Between the SLW and the Hygger you linked, do you know if the speeds go as low as what I'm looking for with regards to GPH? Per the site, mad is 1600GPH for Hygger, and I'm not sure how far down it can be tweaked.

What's the concern with open back on this style of wave makers? Something can get caught behind it? If that's the case, I think that the only issue could be my astraea snails, but maybe not.
 
I have the 1600 in a 16g. I think the lowest setting is 40% and while I doubt it's truly 1600gph at max, even turned down I seriously doubt it's even close to 100... no means of testing. I like it, and haven't had any issues. Maybe put a diy-foam filter over it to restrict flow? Cut down the blades?

Are even any wavemakers out there that run that low? That's even less than small HOB filters.

I have SLW-20 and 30 on a larger tanks. I think they make a "5" version that might be something to look at.
 
I have the 1600 in a 16g. I think the lowest setting is 40% and while I doubt it's truly 1600gph at max, even turned down I seriously doubt it's even close to 100... no means of testing. I like it, and haven't had any issues. Maybe put a diy-foam filter over it to restrict flow? Cut down the blades?

Are even any wavemakers out there that run that low? That's even less than small HOB filters.

I have SLW-20 and 30 on a larger tanks. I think they make a "5" version that might be something to look at.
Wave maker, circulation pump, I'm not picky. Something that has low flow. I figured given the market share of nano tanks, that there would be more out there for better flow. I'll reach out to them and see what the alleged GPH is on the lowest setting.
 
The lowest flow pump I can think of would be hydor's 256gph.
 
The lowest flow pump I can think of would be hydor's 256gph.
Maybe GPH shouldn't really be what I'm thinking about, and just stick with the supported tank sizes these are made for. I ordered the Hygger you recommended and will report back if it gives the flow that I'm looking for. Thanks for the advice!
 
Maybe GPH shouldn't really be what I'm thinking about, and just stick with the supported tank sizes these are made for. I ordered the Hygger you recommended and will report back if it gives the flow that I'm looking for. Thanks for the advice!
I have a 5g as well and I'm looking to increase the flow, how did that work for you?
 
I have a 5g as well and I'm looking to increase the flow, how did that work for you?
The Hygger didn't work out for me since it was just too much flow for such a small tank. I wound up getting a Jebao (Jebao MLW Smart Wave Maker with LCD Display Controller for Saltwater Tank Magnetic Base (MLW-5) https://a.co/d/cAY9G3i) and leave it at the lowest setting, 30% SIN wave and only run it while the lights are on. Otherwise, when the lights are off and the corals are extended, they get batted around too hard at night. Don't put it low and keep it somewhere up top so that it doesn't kick up your sand if it's very fine. Super annoying dealing with placement, but I think it's helpful.
 
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The Hygger didn't work out for me since it was just too much flow for such a small tank. I wound up getting a Jebao (Jebao MLW Smart Wave Maker with LCD Display Controller for Saltwater Tank Magnetic Base (MLW-5) https://a.co/d/cAY9G3i) and leave it at the lowest setting, 30% SIN wave and only run it while the lights are on. Otherwise, when the lights are off and the corals are extended, they get batted around too hard at night. Don't put it low and keep it somewhere up top so that it doesn't kick up your sand if it's very fine. Super annoying dealing with placement, but I think it's helpful.
Thanks for the quick reply after so long, I really appreciate it. I've been looking for something that wouldn't be too much for this pico but kept coming up with things that would make Dorothy feel as though there was a slight breeze compared to what the inside of this tank would feel like.
 
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Thanks for the quick reply after so long, I really appreciate it. I've been looking for something that wouldn't be too much for this pico but kept coming up with things that would make Dorothy feel as though there was a slight breeze compared to what the inside of this tank would feel like.
Haha, perfect analogy! Yeah, placement is key and I wish I could sometimes lower it than the minimum 30%, but this seemed fine for the tank. Good luck!
 
Thanks so much for posting this info! Super duper helpful! How long did you cycle your tank for? I started a 5 gallon pico and did dry rock and arag alive sand. I want to start putting corals but have heard of people running a cycle for 6 months. What did you dose to get your beneficials colony?
 
Thanks so much for posting this info! Super duper helpful! How long did you cycle your tank for? I started a 5 gallon pico and did dry rock and arag alive sand. I want to start putting corals but have heard of people running a cycle for 6 months. What did you dose to get your beneficials colony?
Ha, I started in March a year ago, and I read that you didn't need to cycle. While that may have been true, dealing with a 5g nano tank made it difficult. I've gone through 2 dino blooms and am currently battling this second one.

One thing I wish I knew back when I first started was the biodiversity bit. I think cycling makes sense, but am not sure about 6 months. I think that going through the nitrogen cycle would be a good idea though. What would have helped me get past the ugly stage and avoiding dinos all together would have been biodiversity and not letting my nitrates or phosphates bottom out. I misinterpreted what was being said, and thought that my phosphates and nitrates should be undetectable, but it's rather the golden ratio between the two where both should at least be detectable. The other thing that I learned was having good bacteria and phytoplankton to help balance things out with regards to competition with dinos and green haired algae.

Brain dump of things I wish I understood before, but I think cycling is a good idea, look into phytoplankton, and watch your nitrates and phosphate if you don't have fish. But from what you said, it sounds like you have a much better idea. I, late in the game, used MicroBacter 7 and Dr. Tim's Waste Away for other bacteria for post cleaning up the dinos. Best of luck!
 
Thanks so much for posting this info! Super duper helpful! How long did you cycle your tank for? I started a 5 gallon pico and did dry rock and arag alive sand. I want to start putting corals but have heard of people running a cycle for 6 months. What did you dose to get your beneficials colony?
You aren't understanding the term "cycle". We are referring to the nitrogen cycle. When you "cycle" a new tank, you are allowing an adequate amount of nitrifying bacteria to colonize the biomedia so that any fish waste, extra food, etc does not harm the tank inhabitants -- food and waste breaks down to (among other things) ammonia, which can be toxic to fish and some inverts. Nitrifying bacteria converts ammonia into nitrite and nitrite into nitrate. Nitrite and nitrate are essentially harmless to saltwater fish, although there are good reasons to control their level to some extent. You want to add fish in a manner that allows the bacterial population to keep up with the increased bioload.

Coral, on the other hand, uses forms of nitrogen (ammo, nitrite, nitrate) as food. While too high a level can be harmful to coral, coral itself does not significantly add to the tank's bioload and adding coral will not increase the ammonia level... again, getting rid of the ammonia is the reason we need the tank "cycled" before adding organisms that can be harmed by it.

Several factors affect how successful a person may be with coral. Tank size can be important to take into account as the smaller the tank, the more intensely any changes in water chemistry will affect it. Larger water volumes are more forgiving since anything added to the system will be more diluted.
Tank age is also a factor, and this may be what you are thinking of re: waiting 6 months. A new tank, especially one started with little biodiversity (e.g. dry rock, etc) can take longer to mature to a point that the water chemistry is stable enough to allow corals to do well.
As you can see, a small tank that's new will generally be more unstable than one that's older and/or larger (larger tanks still need time to stabilize though).

Regarding your last question, in a 5 gallons tank, water changes will be simple and regular water changes will likely be sufficient to replenish things like calcium and magnesium that corals use. If you end up progressing to keeping high need SPS, you might need to supplement some, but starting out, there's no need.
(A word of advise about dosing -never dose anything you're not testing for.)

Hope this helps!
 

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