Looking for nutrient export options

Subsea · Nov 14, 2018

@AlgaeBarn
I always manually dose ammonia. It is too critical to rely on equipment malfunction.

Interesting point about “rapid nutrient uptake”. In an article that @Randy Holmes-Farley wrote on dosing iron in a reef tank, he describes iron storage in macroalgae to be used when iron was limited in bulk water. I saw this with a 55G production tank of Gracilaria Hayi that I operated as a tumble culture. Within the first 24 hours of dosing iron, a vibrant red color was noted, then two days later a soft fibery growth was noted on main stem. With no further iron dosing, after two weeks, the extra growth disappeared. I now dose iron once a week in every tank I have.

PS: With respect to dry analysis testing, I use this facility for dependable & economical test results.
https://www.wardlab.com/plant-services.php

ferro · Nov 14, 2018

Thanks for the replies! Currently testing right now to see if I can get some nutrients up in absence of the algae that I removed. Algae barn, you guys need to get some chaeto! Can't find anywhere to order it

Hitman · Nov 14, 2018

ferro said:
Thanks for the replies! Currently testing right now to see if I can get some nutrients up in absence of the algae that I removed. Algae barn, you guys need to get some chaeto! Can't find anywhere to order it

It odd that everyone is out of macro algae right now.

acro-ed · Nov 14, 2018

At first I wasn’t getting much growth out of my chaeto despite having plenty of N and P. I then added some Caulerpa Prolifera and some Ulva. Now all three are growing well and there’s not a speck of nuisance algae in my display. I think one or both of the other two types of algae must uptake nutrients at a different rate or grows more effectively with nutrients in a different ratio as compared to chaeto. It seems the trend is to defer to chaeto and just use that but I’m having better luck with multiple types of macro algae on my current tank.

Subsea · Nov 15, 2018

acro-ed said:
At first I wasn’t getting much growth out of my chaeto despite having plenty of N and P. I then added some Caulerpa Prolifera and some Ulva. Now all three are growing well and there’s not a speck of nuisance algae in my display. I think one or both of the other two types of algae must uptake nutrients at a different rate or grows more effectively with nutrients in a different ratio as compared to chaeto. It seems the trend is to defer to chaeto and just use that but I’m having better luck with multiple types of macro algae on my current tank.

John Mahoney says the same thing at
https://www.reefcleaners.org/stocking-the-sump-refugium

Our Philosophy:

You want both consistent nutrient uptake and pulse nutrient uptake macros and saltwater plants in your tank.

DFR · Nov 15, 2018

At 9 months, your tanks is still pretty new. Everyone else here has some nice discussions that could honestly start new threads but I believe the issue here that you are trying to address is a filtration system that would keep your tank thriving for years to come.

I like the current set up, but what is your ultimate goal in terms of filtration, and what equipment are you currently running?

I see you have ReefOctopus skimmer that from the pics seems more than adequately sized for your system. Adding a Refugium/macro algae as a form of nutrient control wouldn’t be necessary in my opinion, as I’m assuming you are also running filter socks. If you are planning on running the Refugium/macro algae solely for pods, that is understandable and I would suggest you manually remove the green hair algae and keep that under control before trying to add the macro. Otherwise it is easy for the GHA to outcompete any new macro algae you put in.

najer · Nov 15, 2018

I just took this, it is in my display, I put it there!
It allows me to monitor where my nutrients are more or less, I don't test.
My scopas loves it!
I like caulerpa and it likes flow, there is loads more in my display refugium!
I have various things in the sump fuge including green grape, I tried that in the display fuge and the scopas thought it was it's birthday!
Mix it up a bit as stated above.

DSC_0001 by sshipuk, on Flickr

ferro · Nov 15, 2018

I do want to keep the pod population up because I have a mandarin. I have had him for 4 months and just want to make sure he always has ample food. As far as equipment I run a reef octopus 150sss, no filter socks because they were a pain in butt. I have a couple of marine pure blocks and that is it in the sump. My goal is to get tank parameters to a spot where I can try to keep a couple SPS corals and have a stable tank. I also think my sump looks bad with hair algae for nutrient export. I would like to grow something to feed my yellow tang.

Subsea · Nov 15, 2018

ferro said:
I do want to keep the pod population up because I have a mandarin. I have had him for 4 months and just want to make sure he always has ample food. As far as equipment I run a reef octopus 150sss, no filter socks because they were a pain in butt. I have a couple of marine pure blocks and that is it in the sump. My goal is to get tank parameters to a spot where I can try to keep a couple SPS corals and have a stable tank. I also think my sump looks bad with hair algae for nutrient export. I would like to grow something to feed my yellow tang.

It is quite possible that your marine pure blocks are removing nitrates. Read what BRS says about this product.

https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/mari...JkzdxtT_WvRU-KW2Rz3q7e619HoACWuhoCeGsQAvD_BwE

(The media’s composition is similar to natural rock formations. MarinePure provides approximately 150,000 sq. Ft per cu. Ft (510 m2/L) of accessible surface area. The properties of MarinePure create a stable home for a dense population of beneficial bacteria that remove ammonia and nitrites from your aquarium. Some systems will also see a decrease in nitrates. MarinePure will work in sumps, trickle filters, wet/dry filters, hang on the back filters or directly in the tank.)

PS: If the above is true, then you may not need algae for filtration. Just turn out the lights and let the nutrients from algae decomposing feed your tank. Pods would proliferate in that enviroment.

PSS: In my 25 year old tank, I turned out the lights in macro refugium, composted tomatoes and seeded refugium with cryptic sponges.

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/2...m-on-top-with-30g-ecosystem-mud-macro.421526/

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/wet-salty-for-christmas-2017.428100/

ferro · Nov 15, 2018

I put the marine pure in the sump because I feared not having enough live rock in my tank. ~45-50lbs and 20lbs of sand.

Subsea · Nov 15, 2018

ferro said:
I put the marine pure in the sump because I feared not having enough live rock in my tank. ~45-50lbs and 20lbs of sand.

Using your test results, you should feed more or have less biofiltration.

Biofiltration comes in many forms. Coral will process nutrients (nutrient recycling). I much more prefer fragging & selling coral for nutrient export then removing skimmate for nutrient export.

DFR · Nov 15, 2018

Well you are definitely on the right track!!! The marine pure blocks are an easy addition for the increase in biofiltration as the surface area is unbelievable. The skimmer is also important with that possible increase in bacterial load (as well as nutrient uptake). The refugium as you stated houses the pods and ales aids in nutrient export.

For me, feeding more has always been a problem, so inversely what I do is periodically remove other forms of nutrient export. You can try running your skimmer only during the day (or night) and cut back the amount of time that your refugium light is on. This will probably get me in trouble, but you could also add more fish

. Honestly if your parameters are stable, you should be fine adding some SPS. Since your system is still relatively new, just make sure to keep on top of testing. I wouldn’t be too pressed about chasing values right now, just get to learn you system.

AlgaeBarn · Nov 16, 2018

ferro said:
Thanks for the replies! Currently testing right now to see if I can get some nutrients up in absence of the algae that I removed. Algae barn, you guys need to get some chaeto! Can't find anywhere to order it

We have it instock now

. We will be updating our stock and putting red ogo and sea lettuce a little later today as well

AlgaeBarn · Nov 16, 2018

Subsea said:
It is quite possible that your marine pure blocks are removing nitrates. Read what BRS says about this product.

https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/mari...JkzdxtT_WvRU-KW2Rz3q7e619HoACWuhoCeGsQAvD_BwE

(The media’s composition is similar to natural rock formations. MarinePure provides approximately 150,000 sq. Ft per cu. Ft (510 m2/L) of accessible surface area. The properties of MarinePure create a stable home for a dense population of beneficial bacteria that remove ammonia and nitrites from your aquarium. Some systems will also see a decrease in nitrates. MarinePure will work in sumps, trickle filters, wet/dry filters, hang on the back filters or directly in the tank.)

PS: If the above is true, then you may not need algae for filtration. Just turn out the lights and let the nutrients from algae decomposing feed your tank. Pods would proliferate in that enviroment.

PSS: In my 25 year old tank, I turned out the lights in macro refugium, composted tomatoes and seeded refugium with cryptic sponges.

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/2...m-on-top-with-30g-ecosystem-mud-macro.421526/

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/wet-salty-for-christmas-2017.428100/

We don't tend to see much nitrate reduction with marine pure cubes or plates. If they are blocks (8"x8"x4") they tend to have enough thickness to have an anaerobic zone to reduce nitrate levels.