Looking to build a glass frag tank

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So when I'm figuring the dimensions to have the glass cut, do i need to include a gap for silicone or just have them butt up to each other? And If so how much should I deduct from my calculations ?
 
typically you do not take into consideration the silicone gap. The gap is usually less than the cut tolerances of the glass anyways. But from my experience and reading, the silicone gap is usually about 1/16". A lot of people use the new method of injecting the silicone to the gap with toothpicks spacing the panes to prevent skimming over of the silicone. Skimming can occur as short as 5 minutes and the strength of the bond is greatly reduced.
 
in short... yes. width of the seam depends on size of tank. if you inset the bottom then your ends and bottom are the same width but the length of the bottom is less the thickness of the two ends and the gap for silicone. the problem you will run into is unless you go for a flat polish edge your gonna be hard pressed to find a glazier that will give you exact dimensions. most in industry do a + or - 1/8" for hand cut and seamed glass. if you pony up for a flat polished edge they usually get you exactly what you ask for.

also alot of smaller glass shops may not have the equipment to do edge polishing so they will be ordering it from their distributor in your requested size.
 
It is braced for the acrylic but not glass. It's a little dated but still a very good resource. You can see the power compacts over the frag tanks lol, I remember changing out the starters on those things. What a pain
 
Thanks for the replies and the calculator! Still in research mode, so if you have any links on how to build please share. I have two 30x30 3/8 panels that I plan on using for frag tanks, just have to purchase the sides. I plan on ordering from glass cages. If I pony up for flat ground edges to get exact measuments will I be running close to the cost of purchasing a tank? Also what is the injection method? Thanks in advance.
 
its showing a 2" euro brace for a 12"x18"x48" using 1/4" glass. using that calculator.. seems a bit thin for a rimless application to me.

just looked at the glass cages custom cut glass page. it appears to me the price per sq ft does not include seam and swipe. which is a pretty rough finish IMO. should email them and ask? and then hit up a local glass shop and see what they quote. there is some online shops that will ship. i have personally bought from dulles glass and mirror online and was pleased with the purchase.
 
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its showing a 2" euro brace for a 12"x18"x48" using 1/4" glass. using that calculator.. seems a bit thin for a rimless application to me.

Yeah 1/4 glass in rimless seems very sketchy to me. however if its only 12" tall then its understandable why its calling for such thin glass. If I remember, the way those calculators work it by "Fixing" all 4 edges of the tank, i.e. bracing so the tops and bottoms cannot bend. I would be ok using 1/4" if braced, but would use atleast 3/8" for rimless.
 
Also what is the injection method? Thanks in advance.
Here is a quick video I found doing a google search. And yes building a custom tank usually always encroaches the cost of a new tank if not exceeds it. There is a cost associate with custom. Glass can be had cheap, but the people online charge shipping which brings the cost up significantly. I would look for a local glass shop to snap and sand your pieces. if just a frag tank, polished edges, to me, aren't needed. especially if you use black rtv
 
I was going to build one myself but found it to be cheaper to buy a deep blue frag tank and drill it. It was 200 for a 48x24x18 rimless tank plus ghost overflow was another hundred.
 
If I pony up for flat ground edges to get exact measuments will I be running close to the cost of purchasing a tank?

I was going to build one myself but found it to be cheaper to buy a deep blue frag tank and drill it.

yea, unfortunately that is usually the case. once you factor silicone, solvents, tape, time etc.. it adds up pretty quick. i can see the motivation though with already having the 2 30x30 panels. im a diy junkie and would totally go for it! lol but cost would not be my motivation to do the project.
 
lol but cost would not be my motivation to do the project

This. I tell guys in my local club this all the time. If you're interested in doing it because you love building or need something VERY specific, go for it! If you're doing it to save money, buy something used.
 
You do need to factor in the silicone gap. It affects both sides/ends. So if you use 1/16 per seam, that 1/8" end to end. The exact glass thickness needs to known as well. The glass is made within a tolerance, and is in metric size.
 

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