gonewild34
Active Member
were is a good place to but a 50 or 75 gpd at a good price
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looking to buy a ro unit
- Thread starter gonewild34
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I've got a BRS RODI and I dig it, it was under 150 for the lowest model (without TDS meter and PSI gauge)
_Alex_
Valuable Member
Untitled Document
the first ro di unit on the page here is a great unit and from a great company spectrapure tests all of there di resins and filters before they go out the door they are top notch!
the first ro di unit on the page here is a great unit and from a great company spectrapure tests all of there di resins and filters before they go out the door they are top notch!
OP
OP
gonewild34
Active Member
Thanks ill check it out
Big Country
New Member
air water ice typhoon 3
btkrausen
Fish Hoarder
Thats what I run and it works like a champ.
They do not come any better than Spectrapure. They have been doing water treatment for over 25 years and it shows in their equipment.
The $120 refurbished system will outperform any other system mentioned in this thread hands down and for much less money. Its long term operating cost and water quality will also be better.
The $120 refurbished system will outperform any other system mentioned in this thread hands down and for much less money. Its long term operating cost and water quality will also be better.
You don't need to spend extra money for chloraimines. They got you on that one.
For chloramines, any good 1 micron or less carbon block is more than sufficient for the chlorine portion removal, its the ammonia that is a killer and where Spectrapures custom blended DI resins come into play. The carbon does not remove the ammonia and the RO membrane is only marginally efficient at all forms of ammonia so a full size vertical DI with high quality resins is a must. Don't waste money on special carbons when it is not needed, spring for a better DI section which gives you bang for your buck.
GENERAL INFO ON REVERSE OSMOSIS
For chloramines, any good 1 micron or less carbon block is more than sufficient for the chlorine portion removal, its the ammonia that is a killer and where Spectrapures custom blended DI resins come into play. The carbon does not remove the ammonia and the RO membrane is only marginally efficient at all forms of ammonia so a full size vertical DI with high quality resins is a must. Don't waste money on special carbons when it is not needed, spring for a better DI section which gives you bang for your buck.
GENERAL INFO ON REVERSE OSMOSIS
cdness
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I have to give AZ a +1 as I had the BRS 5 stage and have since converted it to a MaxCap system with the assistance of AZ. He pointed me in the right direction to the stuff I needed and I have never been happier. No need for the second carbon block if your sediment and first block are quality. You'll end up saving money in the long run with Spectrapure, not only in the system but in the filter replacement costs as well.
Nothing against BRS by any means. It will work if that's the road you decide to take. I used mine for 4 years and never had an issue. I ran into bad water at my new place and the Spectrapure is just much more efficient.
Nothing against BRS by any means. It will work if that's the road you decide to take. I used mine for 4 years and never had an issue. I ran into bad water at my new place and the Spectrapure is just much more efficient.
No comparison. High miicron low quality sediment and carbon filters, sometimes even GAC good for only 300 gallons. Dry untreated and untested RO membranes and often the 100 GPD only 90% efficient nano filter instead of the better 75 GPD 96-98% efficient RO membrane and worst of all little horizontal low capacity hollow tubes they call DI filters versus a full size 10" vertical refillable 20 oz DI. No pressure gauge and no capillary tube flow restrictor.
You really do get what you pay for with RO/DI and it pays to shop around and gain some knowledge before diving in, there is a difference and I can go into much more detail if anyone is interested. It all boils down to cost of ownership and water quality, which will last the longest, cost the least amount to own and operate over its lifespan and give you the best possible water quality of 18.2 megaohms resistivity. Some may cost less initially but cost more to upgrade so they truly work while others may cost a bit more up front but save from then on. Look at it like a fine tool you expect to last a lifetime. Water is the single largest ingredient in a reef system and everything depends on its quality, don't skimp here.
Compare all those listed side by side and look at what you are getting for your money. By that I mean look at each filter and each component. A 0.5 micron absolute rated sediment filter compared to a 5, 10 or unspecified nominal rated filter. A 0.5 micron, 20,000 gallon carbon block versus a 10 micron 3,000 gallon carbon block or 300 gallon granular carbon. A treated and batch tested high rejection rate RO membrane versus a dry off the shelf untreated and untested RO membrane or even a less efficient nano filter. 20 oz of reef specific custom blended DI resin in a full size vertical canister and refillable cartridge that fills from the bottom and exits the top so all resin and water contact each other versus 6 or 12 oz of who know what blend and how old it is in a little hollow tube that short circuits and channels so is very inefficient. A fixed orfice flow restrictor that is never quite 4:1 waste ratio versus a capilary tube you measure and trim yourself using your exact water conditions. An inline pressure gauge versus no pressure gauge.
These are the things you need to look at and compare and decide for yourself what you want and need. Better filters protect the membrane and DI better so they work better and last longer saving you money. What does it cost to replace the RO membrane every 18 months to 3 years versus every 5-10 years for the better system? Look beyond the initial investment, thats the cheap part, its what it will cost you from then on.
You really do get what you pay for with RO/DI and it pays to shop around and gain some knowledge before diving in, there is a difference and I can go into much more detail if anyone is interested. It all boils down to cost of ownership and water quality, which will last the longest, cost the least amount to own and operate over its lifespan and give you the best possible water quality of 18.2 megaohms resistivity. Some may cost less initially but cost more to upgrade so they truly work while others may cost a bit more up front but save from then on. Look at it like a fine tool you expect to last a lifetime. Water is the single largest ingredient in a reef system and everything depends on its quality, don't skimp here.
Compare all those listed side by side and look at what you are getting for your money. By that I mean look at each filter and each component. A 0.5 micron absolute rated sediment filter compared to a 5, 10 or unspecified nominal rated filter. A 0.5 micron, 20,000 gallon carbon block versus a 10 micron 3,000 gallon carbon block or 300 gallon granular carbon. A treated and batch tested high rejection rate RO membrane versus a dry off the shelf untreated and untested RO membrane or even a less efficient nano filter. 20 oz of reef specific custom blended DI resin in a full size vertical canister and refillable cartridge that fills from the bottom and exits the top so all resin and water contact each other versus 6 or 12 oz of who know what blend and how old it is in a little hollow tube that short circuits and channels so is very inefficient. A fixed orfice flow restrictor that is never quite 4:1 waste ratio versus a capilary tube you measure and trim yourself using your exact water conditions. An inline pressure gauge versus no pressure gauge.
These are the things you need to look at and compare and decide for yourself what you want and need. Better filters protect the membrane and DI better so they work better and last longer saving you money. What does it cost to replace the RO membrane every 18 months to 3 years versus every 5-10 years for the better system? Look beyond the initial investment, thats the cheap part, its what it will cost you from then on.
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I agree ... Spectrapure is the best.
