Looking to make the jump

ShawnSaucier

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I have to say that this is my new favorite forum on this site. I am just in the starting phases of looking to make the jump to a “Monster Tank”. My current system is a 190g Reef Savvy (60x30x24). The system has been a pain for most of the 5+ years it has been up. It was done in a bit of a rush initially and has spent most of the time trying to find it’s own identity. My next system I would prefer to really take my time with the build, and try to avoid so many of the issues I’ve had in the past. I have so many questions for all of you that are housing these large systems, and hope you don’t mind me plying you for some of your great knowledge.
The current plan is a system that is 450-600g (display) with either a fish room or a remote sump in the garage. We are shopping for a new home at the beginning of the year, so this will dictate which option is used. How many of you have a remote sump in another area of the house away from your display? This will be a mixed reef, I have yet to decide on dimensions but really thinking about something in the 84x48x30 size. Acrylic or glass is undecided at this point also. Yes acrylic can scratch easily, but so does starphire. No matter what, you’ll gain some scratches over time. Overflows will be a ghost or shadow type of system, I’m tired of trying to catch the random fish that’s gotten in the overflow tower. Would love some recommendations on builders that are out there.
Flow within the tank, I am thinking about a closed looped system. I’ve never done this before and it seems to be a bit out of favor. Is there a reason for this? Many if not most major aquariums that I have been to use this method in their systems. Also I have become a bit disappointed with the look of power heads in the system. And the reliability for that matter. Who has had both types of systems and what would you consider the pros and cons?
I would like to have zero filtration (skimmer/reactors)in the stand. This space would be used for a frag/holding tank for Corals, heaters and return pumps back into the display.
So what would you do differently? Any words of advice?
 
Hi Shawn,

A lot of great questions and concepts here that I am sure many people would have opinions on. As it is such a dense post, I have condensed and split out your questions into key points which I hope help break them down for others to also throw input on. If I miss anything please just ask.


The current plan is a system that is 450-600g (display) with either a fish room or a remote sump in the garage. We are shopping for a new home at the beginning of the year, so this will dictate which option is used. How many of you have a remote sump in another area of the house away from your display?

  • Many people have their sumps located in pump rooms located a long way from their display tanks. Often on a different floor. Pipe schedules, lagging and pumps might need some thought to ensure appropriate insulation, head ratings and flow rates... but lots of folks prefer to have their pump rooms located away from their displays where they can work on them with more room and a lower risk of water spillage in a primary location of their house. Pump rooms can make great man caves too!
  • A key question I would ask here would be, how long do you plan to live in your new house for and would a design solution need to consider the ability to break down the system in the event you have to move...? Knowing this then defines the most cost effective way to achieve your objective and also will help you narrow in on your own design intent.

This will be a mixed reef,
  • By mixed reef do you mean both mixed fish and mixed coral types or are you more inclined to keep a particular coral type ( predominantly SPS for example)? Knowing this will define the type of system you need to design for and the elements you will need to include within it. A mixed reef SPS design for example is vastly different from a soft coral design.

I have yet to decide on dimensions but really thinking about something in the 84x48x30 size.
  • Great dimensions! Good surface area and panel spans and water depth need not become cost prohibitive for the average reefer.

Acrylic or glass is undecided at this point also.
  • Again all depends on the tank layout (open top or shrouded), the room it will be in at its interior design.... however the most cost effective and most durable design solution for a small tank like this would is made from 3/4 glass panels cantilevered out of a concrete base. Next most efficient would be an all glass, tank with braces, then all acrylic. Open top (no braces) acrylic based on a 30" depth however is typically cost prohibitive for most folks.

Overflows will be a ghost or shadow type of system, I’m tired of trying to catch the random fish that’s gotten in the overflow tower.
  • With overflow design, a lot depends here on where the tank will ultimately be located and from how many side you will wish to view it from. However in any case, if designed well, there should be no reason why fish will get into your overflow.

Also I have become a bit disappointed with the look of power heads in the system. And the reliability for that matter. Who has had both types of systems and what would you consider the pros and cons?
  • Trying to get good flow rates using "Closed loop" as you describe it on a tank volume of only 514 gallons presents no real challenge... With the options available in low wattage DC pumps today, power and heat considerations of yesterday are also becoming less of a thing.
  • However to get the best flow rate for your buck (or watt) from exterior pumps internal tank plumbing is best fitted with educators.... this giving you increased total flow rates. The trade off being they often take up as much room inside the tank as an efficient wave maker pump will.
  • You can service an external flow pump more easily when located outside the tank, however that extra plumbing also presents more risk of leakage long term. Something else to factor into your choices.
  • Power heads, flow pumps or wave makers.... today are far more reliable and energy efficient than they used to be. This coupled with their ability to be controlled with variable flow rates, enable you to ensure very high and random flow rates throughout a tank while also minimizing visual obtrusion.
  • My advise would be to use several high quality wave makers for in tank flow and 2 good quality return pumps to circulate water between your display tank and your sump.

I would like to have zero filtration (skimmer/reactors)in the stand. This space would be used for a frag/holding tank for Corals, heaters and return pumps back into the display.
  • Many systems have the skimmers plumbed externally to the sump tanks. So there is no reason why you can't do as you have suggested here. A tip however would be to plumb your skimmer directly in line with your overflow so water travels from the tank through the skimmer and into your sump.... again much depends on your house layout and where ultimately you want to locate your sump... under the tank, in another room on the same floor or on a floor below.

So what would you do differently? Any words of advice?
  • I think once you have a better idea on the house you will be living in, how long you will be living in it for and what corals and fish exactly you want to keep, you will be closer to finding your ideal solution. Thinking about it now however and getting feedback before you move, great first steps.
 
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IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%
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