LOSING IT! All opinions welcome!

Just needs some routine maintenance, a little consistency, some TLC, & a few water changes.
Amen! This thread is going the way I hoped .. some water changes and love.

And absolutely good to know you are right down the road ... may take you up on that as it is always good to have experienced reefers near by!!!
 
I scrubbed with with a hard bristle tooth brush before the hydrogen peroxide. Rinsed in waste water from a water change i did at the same time. Then did the peroxide soak. After 2-3 minutes of soaking i rinsed again in a different bucket of waste water. Then returned to the tank. Was trying to ensure as few spores as possible went back in.
Great stuff .. and in your experience it took care of all tht nastiness? happy camping after that ?
 
First off I think it's tough to keep an SPS tank going for 2.5 months without a seasoned reefer present to check Ca and Alk at the very least. Your girlfriend did a good job with what she could I would say. One thing goes wrong and alkalinity/calcium demand changes and things go sideways pretty quickly. You may be better off buying an alkalinity monitor or having a seasoned reefer check on things every once in a while.

At this point I would get PO4 down with GFO or phosphate Rx for the turf algae and use vibrant eventually for bubble algae. I would also get a pump and blow off detritus with every water change and make sure you have heavy flow in the tank. Alternatively you could cook your rock by placing it in a covered trash can with NSW and a pump for a month or two (without the coral obviously).
Yah I think I asked a bit much from her this time .. and you are right I came out very lucky. could have been worse. To be honest I did not know I was going to be gone 2.5 months .. thought it was going to be a few weeks... but Houston was ROUGH and then there was what seemed like a hurricane every other weekend. So I had to stay out longer.
 
Yah I think I asked a bit much from her this time .. and you are right I came out very lucky. could have been worse. To be honest I did not know I was going to be gone 2.5 months .. thought it was going to be a few weeks... but Houston was ROUGH and then there was what seemed like a hurricane every other weekend. So I had to stay out longer.
Well I'm glad they had you guys and I would agree things went well with the tank considering all of that! If you do plan on lowering nutrients keep a very close eye on that alkalinity. If it is still at 10dkH you may start to bleach those acros by going too low too fast. H202 and a clean up crew may be a better call in the short term.

EDIT: nvm I saw alk is at 8.2 that's much better.
 
Fluco is only going to help on bryopsis and hair algae, I didn't have any luck in any of my tests against bubble algae. Bubble algae is a PITA for sure. Not saying my tests were perfect, but one of my tests ran higher than recommended dosages and it only impacted the hair and bryopsis, no impact on bubble. Are you sure you aren't seeing red cyno and a hair/turf algae mix? your sandbed in the one pic showing the red leads me to think that.

I'd recommend the water changes noted above and consider a slightly oversized CUC including some sand movers like nassarius or similar.

By the looks of your spawn, you're definitely low on nutrients but that's an easy fix with some feeding regimens if you want to go that route. But I'll second the fact that if your GF successfully maintained SPS while you were gone even with these setbacks, she's a keeper!
 
You know the direction I've taken on the bubble algae... Vibrant.

Regarding the obvious issues... You need to SERIOUSLY double check your feeding habits AND the clean-up crew. Make sure all the snails are accounted for. Trochus(?) snails are my personal favorite. Mexicans just didnt do it for me. The trochus snails can flip themselves over after a tumble. Mexicans typically do not.
I also read that you've been feeding acro-power?...?? I'd GREATLY reduce that to an absolute minimum. CLEARLY everything else (algae) is consuming it too increase the problem.

I agree with frequent 10% water changes. Say, twice a week versus once a week.

Need to double check your water test results... Do you have an LFS you can take it to?
 
Well I'm glad they had you guys and I would agree things went well with the tank considering all of that! If you do plan on lowering nutrients keep a very close eye on that alkalinity. If it is still at 10dkH you may start to bleach those acros by going too low too fast. H202 and a clean up crew may be a better call in the short term.

EDIT: nvm I saw alk is at 8.2 that's much better.
No you are correct. it WAS at 8.2 before I left .,, came back and it was 10.0 all of a sudden. I am slowly taking it back down to 8.2 where I want it and where it was
 
You know the direction I've taken on the bubble algae... Vibrant.

Regarding the obvious issues... You need to SERIOUSLY double check your feeding habits AND the clean-up crew. Make sure all the snails are accounted for. Trochus(?) snails are my personal favorite. Mexicans just didnt do it for me. The trochus snails can flip themselves over after a tumble. Mexicans typically do not.
I also read that you've been feeding acro-power?...?? I'd GREATLY reduce that to an absolute minimum. CLEARLY everything else (algae) is consuming it too increase the problem.

I agree with frequent 10% water changes. Say, twice a week versus once a week.

Need to double check your water test results... Do you have an LFS you can take it to?

* Feeding usually consists of some pellets for my tang and clowns, and then a frozen brine shrimp for anthias 1x a day. That is all. and my tang usually crushes all of the pellets. None seem to make it to the bottom .. he is crazy

* test results are usually pretty on point lately (this last week) as the #s have been consistent .. I do have a LFS but they only do entry level tests.

* Clean up crew is going to happen as early as tomm morning
 
Fluco is only going to help on bryopsis and hair algae, I didn't have any luck in any of my tests against bubble algae. Bubble algae is a PITA for sure. Not saying my tests were perfect, but one of my tests ran higher than recommended dosages and it only impacted the hair and bryopsis, no impact on bubble. Are you sure you aren't seeing red cyno and a hair/turf algae mix? your sandbed in the one pic showing the red leads me to think that.

I'd recommend the water changes noted above and consider a slightly oversized CUC including some sand movers like nassarius or similar.

By the looks of your spawn, you're definitely low on nutrients but that's an easy fix with some feeding regimens if you want to go that route. But I'll second the fact that if your GF successfully maintained SPS while you were gone even with these setbacks, she's a keeper!

Lol... yes she is a keeper for sure!

And yah I thought the same thing about the cyna and turf mix .. i just wans not sure and wanted to post some pics to get others opinions.
 
My parameters are all fine but I have been struggling for 2 months with diatoms/brown algae in my 180 gallon aquarium that is about 9 month old. I am slowly making progress. I have added GFO, am doing 25% weekly water changes, and clean the algae off by hand. I scrub the algae by taking what rock I can out of the aquarium and using a nylon brush on the rock in a 5 gallon bucket half filled with fresh saltwater. I vacuum out any algae I can and discard it along with sand that comes with it. I bought a dental water pick and use it to scrub the rock that is in the tank. All in all a painful process but for a glorious 2 or 3 days I enjoy an non-brown aquarium. Then after a week I go through it all again.
 
So since I have been monitoring this every day since sunday ... my current P04 is at 0.03, Calcium holding good at 450 and Alk is slowly coming down and is at 9.3 -- my tank is going thru about 0.3 of alk a day -- went from 10.0... to 9.6 ... to 9.3 as I obviously stopped dosing anything right now as I get a handle on this.

Waiting on my red sea nitrate kit to get here.
 
nice details and pics here. my reco based off the algae correction threads+ perox:

1. adjust no nutrients down in response via the water column (the opposite of what nearly everyone would do) which may work, but for other reasons its my #1 no. corals are not harmed here, corals look great. we can kill algae wo stressing their nutrient acclimations its not that nutrients alone can't cure your prob...we get too many bleached outcomes for me to endorse it as a first go. removing protein stores via manual labor is the first go, its always safe and never bleaches **the time we would institute nutrient control is only after the entire system has been cleaned from the bottom up, as a preventative, we never wield nutrients as an algae remover or starver in our cure threads. we went backwards to the norms and saved many more tanks/gained a mil after pics.

2. hand clean out the system vs allowing protein stores to stay in place from any feeding issues if you have nutrient problems. if anyone overfed, lets just clean out the tank and start fresh. If getting that much water ready is a prob, drain the water cleanly into T cans and we can reuse it. Imagine trying to reduce nitrates and po4 in that water, when the sandbed is clean vs still feeding the water column, as is now (check the sandbed in a small area to see how much it clouds) You can still rip clean this tank back to no nitrate storage, and not have to make up + 100 gallons of water. put the water-needing-touchup back on top of clean stuff. we have a large thread of several doing that to pre scan the outcomes. the official sand rinse thread here.

3. take no action on the algae targets themselves other than a test rock, before experimenting with the main tank. Rip cleaning that large tank without losing animals/skip cycle reassembly is not the experimental part. That's how we run all pico reefs, its a manner of care. The experiment is using peroxide or starvation on any particular algae before we have modeled and known if that method works via simply a smaller rock. we take that accessible test rock out, and use a steak knife to surgically score it free like a crazy dentist wearing a nitrous mask at work. score the algae out like a parrotfish bites a rock of it in the wild, surgically remove all the valonia. Use peroxide as your rinse on the cleaned spots, see how that mode is a massive amplifier towards your goal? the knife did all the real work, like the scraper is what really gets our teeth clean and not a toothbrush. good dentists leave us bleeding a bit about the gums and mouth #thefear. algae is bested in that manner. after all work is done carefully around corals (we applied no peroxide to nontargets so far, they just sat in the air while we worked) put the test rock back and just watch it a week or so compared to other rocks before we go Friday the 13th on them. Usually the test rock indicates such great growback control, its worth upscaling to the whole tank.

there are easier ways to fix your algae than the above, but we get 100% outcomes off the above so its all I recommend. this is specifically why I only want a reef tank of one gallon max.
 
Great stuff .. and in your experience it took care of all tht nastiness? happy camping after that ?

What i found is the H202 effectively kills bubble algae. Have to make sure you get the base scrubbed off or doesnt penetrate well. Effectively controls spores from the scrubbing. Had to do 2 treatments on a very porous rock for areas i missed. Also kills Rhodophyta, though i wouldnt use it for this purpose imo.

I still get the occasional bubble but nothing that an extra few minutes during a water change cant handle.

This did nothing on hair algae, in my experience better to combat with a rock cleaning and nutrient control.
 
My parameters are all fine but I have been struggling for 2 months with diatoms/brown algae in my 180 gallon aquarium that is about 9 month old. I am slowly making progress. I have added GFO, am doing 25% weekly water changes, and clean the algae off by hand. I scrub the algae by taking what rock I can out of the aquarium and using a nylon brush on the rock in a 5 gallon bucket half filled with fresh saltwater. I vacuum out any algae I can and discard it along with sand that comes with it. I bought a dental water pick and use it to scrub the rock that is in the tank. All in all a painful process but for a glorious 2 or 3 days I enjoy an non-brown aquarium. Then after a week I go through it all again.
You're more than likely fighting dinos and not diatoms. Very different beast and you'll need to read the dino thread by mcarroll for help there
 
nice details and pics here. my reco based off the algae correction threads+ perox:

1. adjust no nutrients down in response via the water column (the opposite of what nearly everyone would do) which may work, but for other reasons its my #1 no. corals are not harmed here, corals look great. we can kill algae wo stressing their nutrient acclimations its not that nutrients alone can't cure your prob...we get too many bleached outcomes for me to endorse it as a first go. removing protein stores via manual labor is the first go, its always safe and never bleaches **the time we would institute nutrient control is only after the entire system has been cleaned from the bottom up, as a preventative, we never wield nutrients as an algae remover or starver in our cure threads. we went backwards to the norms and saved many more tanks/gained a mil after pics.

2. hand clean out the system vs allowing protein stores to stay in place from any feeding issues if you have nutrient problems. if anyone overfed, lets just clean out the tank and start fresh. If getting that much water ready is a prob, drain the water cleanly into T cans and we can reuse it. Imagine trying to reduce nitrates and po4 in that water, when the sandbed is clean vs still feeding the water column, as is now (check the sandbed in a small area to see how much it clouds) You can still rip clean this tank back to no nitrate storage, and not have to make up + 100 gallons of water. put the water-needing-touchup back on top of clean stuff. we have a large thread of several doing that to pre scan the outcomes. the official sand rinse thread here.

3. take no action on the algae targets themselves other than a test rock, before experimenting with the main tank. Rip cleaning that large tank without losing animals/skip cycle reassembly is not the experimental part. That's how we run all pico reefs, its a manner of care. The experiment is using peroxide or starvation on any particular algae before we have modeled and known if that method works via simply a smaller rock. we take that accessible test rock out, and use a steak knife to surgically score it free like a crazy dentist wearing a nitrous mask at work. score the algae out like a parrotfish bites a rock of it in the wild, surgically remove all the valonia. Use peroxide as your rinse on the cleaned spots, see how that mode is a massive amplifier towards your goal? the knife did all the real work, like the scraper is what really gets our teeth clean and not a toothbrush. good dentists leave us bleeding a bit about the gums and mouth #thefear. algae is bested in that manner. after all work is done carefully around corals (we applied no peroxide to nontargets so far, they just sat in the air while we worked) put the test rock back and just watch it a week or so compared to other rocks before we go Friday the 13th on them. Usually the test rock indicates such great growback control, its worth upscaling to the whole tank.

there are easier ways to fix your algae than the above, but we get 100% outcomes off the above so its all I recommend. this is specifically why I only want a reef tank of one gallon max.
@brandon429 so essentially, and that is great info, your theory is we want to test on a base/test rock before applying all else ... if I am following correctly?
 
I didn't read the posts in between your first one and here, but I wanted to let you know Vibrant fixed a bad bubble algae issue for me at the first of the year. If you decide to use it just be sure you are removing all the dead algae. I didn't pay enough attention to my fuge and the next thing I knew all the algae in there had melted. I wound up with some cyano for a bit after that, but I haven't seen another bubble yet.
 
Big is right on the vibrant.

as a whole its ok to just try that alone and see if it fixes this tank anyway and it darn sure might but any clouding sandbed will always require more offsets, that force cleaning is the only thing I can keep coming back to decade after decade for after pics without collateral losses.

That valonia, our scraping and peroxiding may not beat that valonia... the Vibrant is the #1 thing I recommend you dose to the tank to at least target that valonia if it comes back after our bottoms up cleaning (in the ideal)

30% chance vibrant makes that invader go away by itself, and about 90% chance it can beat valonia that stuff has forever niche value to us in reefing for large tanks. If this were a pico, we could have it valonia free solely off dental work alone.

Knowing what a test rock does simply tells you all the growback variables and treatment responses before we upscale I really like that new way! we arrived there slowly in time by having people do giant long and dreadful rip cleanings, starting great, then find out the algae started to come back because they didn't score deep enough.

that test rock is where you dig around trying to assess how deep the roots or holdfasts of that invader go. bryopsis and neomeris annulata is the worst, that you have there is a normal reefing invader which shows up now and then on normal reefs and animals eat it. your tank isn't all that bad among posts ive seen in my opinion. your sitter did darn good.
 
You're more than likely fighting dinos and not diatoms. Very different beast and you'll need to read the dino thread by mcarroll for help there

I did the coffee filter test to see if I had dinos or diatoms. The test would indicate that they are diatoms. BTW. I really appreciate the response with the info on the thread to help figure out what I have. Too many people just offer an opinion with no help or information. Thank you.
 
I did the coffee filter test to see if I had dinos or diatoms. The test would indicate that they are diatoms. BTW. I really appreciate the response with the info on the thread to help figure out what I have. Too many people just offer an opinion with no help or information. Thank you.
Hopefully it is just diatoms. A $10 toy microscope is well worth it
 
Hopefully it is just diatoms. A $10 toy microscope is well worth it

First, went to Amazon and bought a $12 microscope. After an hour I went back to check the coffee filtered sample and, amazingly, I saw the dinos (pic below). The test suggested I would see them after 15 minutes but it jus took a little longer. Shout out to my wife who said just let it stand longer.

3c7545e51507dbd80ee0ae28c2d07eb8.jpg
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%
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