Losing the battle to Cyano

[Greenstreet.1]

I have read that fox face can eat bubble algae.

They do I have one on order now for my bubble issue.

 

[sghera64]

I wish I knew which husbandry habits I am doing that are wrong

L
its the sandbed causing most of the issue

Agreed that removing sand will remove the detritus trap. However it’s not a silver bullet.

If you like your sand bed, keep it.

I had cyano on both sand and parts of the rock. Getting it out/off the sand was the easiest and the first thing to improve for me. It is slowly going away from the rock now.

I removed the detritus from the sand by repeatedly siphoning he affected areas. It required deep siphoning down to the glass; 2-5 repeats and siphoning about 1/4 gallon each time per square foot of sand.

 

[Rich Klein]

I can't seem to figure out how to solve this problem. I had pretty bad cyano a couple months ago and I did a 3 day black out and that got rid of it. I skimmed wet and pulled probably 15 gallons of pinkish water out. Now, it is coming back and I am not really sure what to do. I have cut back feeding since then as well. I only feed a 1/2 inch square piece of rods every other day.

Also, I did the cyano vs spirulina test. It's definitely cyano based on that test.

All tank inhabitants are happy. I have plenty of SPS that is growing. LPS is happy. Anemone is happy. I think I'm the only one not happy haha.

Red Sea Reefer 350:
Equipment:
Maxspect Gyre XF250 . Pulsing at 60% per 2 seconds
Ecotech MP40QD Pulsing at 50% per second
Reef Octopus Varios 6 running at 100% through two RFG nozzles
Tunze 3155 auto top off
Reef Octopus 150INT protein skimmer
36" ATI 8 bulb dimmable T5 Runs at 100% for 5 hours (2 hour ramp up and down)
36" Reefbrite XHO blue strip Runs at 100% for 11 hours
Icecap battery backup for the gyre
2x Two little fishes phosban reactor (one of them running carbon, the other was going to be a chaeto reactor soon)

Parameters:
Alkalinity: 8.0 -Hanna
Calcium: 470 -Salifert
Magnesium: 1270 -Salifert
Salinity: 1.025 -Mechanical test
Temp: 78 -digital thermometer
Phosphate: 0 -Hanna
Nitrate: 25 -Salifert

Live stock:
1 Female Oscellaris clown
1 Male Wyoming white clown fish
1 Kole Tang
2 Green Blue Chromis
1 McCoskers Wrasse
1 Pom Pom crab
1 Pistol Shrimp
1 Short spine Urchin

Does anyone have any recommendations?

Phosphate can be too low. Go with the Chaeto (and a strong grow light) and dose a bit of phosphorous until you get a ratio of ~ Nitrate = 3 and Phosphate = .03 - http://www.seachem.com/flourish-phosporus.php.

 

[Ferrell]

Here’s a for what it’s worth of my experience.
When cyano showed up I thought it was just early stages of ugly on the sand bed so during my regular WC just vacuumed and poof it was gone or so I thought. There it was the next day. Consulted with r2r and sure enough my first cyano outbreak. Panic ensued. After much research and discussion of chemical treatments I opted to
Initially tried to use tongs to pluck it out (big belly laugh). Like picking up water with a fork soooo....
1. Vacuum as much as I could during next water change using a solid 1/2” tube connected to my WC tube and running thru filter sock. Sand and slime. Just too connected layer. (Pitched the little bit of sand). Once sand was fairly clean proceeded to do normal water change.
2. Helped some so did the same way next week and got the rest that showed up. Same rod, they sock, pitch sand out, then regular WC
3. Insured mp10s we’re running at +80% so flow was not an issue. Had them at 50% before
4. Turned off lights for 3 days but didn’t wrap tank or blackout tank. Ambient room light ok
After three day only turned blues on for a few hrs and slowly increased over the week. All good all healthy no cyano no chemicals
Just my two cents