Loud overflow need help

[Greg P]

My 'right' bulkhead (viewed from front of tank) is the emerg, with the center running wide open (no internal plumbing) and the 'left' bulkhead is plugged externally.
I used threaded bulkheads in the back box.
My back box allowed internal plumbing without interfering with the through bulkheads

 

[kris2for]

The main full siphon can be just a bulkhead with no upside down U pipe - once fully submerged and not sucking air it makes no noise. The secondary trickle drain is best to have a U pipe and should be tall enough that the water level in the box is at least as high as the top of the bulkheads coming from the weir. If too low then there is water noise as it enters the box. Emergency drain just a little bit higher.
Primary and secondary drain pipes should be about 1" submerged in the sump water level and the emergency should NOT be submerged - you want to hear it if it's taking water.

Would it also work if I changed far left with no pipe straight full drain and then far right that has ball valve add a U beam drain

 

[Greg P]

Not sure I understand the 'add a U beam' part ...
It would work if both the left and right bulkheads were tied or 'Teed' together BEFORE the valve

 

[Greg P]

It won't work if the far left drain without the valve is kept as is. It'll just keep running without adjustment. I still suggest to plug it.
Without cutting your current plumbing plug the left one (without the valve)
If you can't plug it, install a pipe taller than the back box

 

[Greg P]

If you can't plug it, install a pipe taller than the back box

NM, I forgot you can't do this as the through bulkhead is in the way.
My box is spaced where the through and drain bulkheads are away from each other.

Just plug the left drain and use the right one to adjust your running height

 

[kris2for]

NM, I forgot you can't do this as the through bulkhead is in the way.
My box is spaced where the through and drain bulkheads are away from each other.

Just plug the left drain and use the right one to adjust your running height

Ok I purchased a cap this am. Before I block off a drain I was thinking if any other fix to not lose flow and keep silent. Would this work in my drawing? Swaping the drains and adding a valve?

Or would I have to cut pipe and run separate lines to the sump

 

[kris2for]

The plug worked like a champ and made it dead silent. Just seems to not have as much flow through the sump. Wondering if i should just add a gate valve after both drain lines near socks to fix problem and be able to run both drains silent.

thank you all for help

 

[Greg P]

Ok I purchased a cap this am. Before I block off a drain I was thinking if any other fix to not lose flow and keep silent. Would this work in my drawing? Swaping the drains and adding a valve?

Or would I have to cut pipe and run separate lines to the sump

It won't be a Bean with the 2 drains tied together.
Adding the valve will allow you to get the end result of silence. Whichever one is open the most will be your height adjustment. But this won't flow any more than the single line between the valves and the sump can handle.

If you want to run a true Bean, you'll need to re-plumb 2 independent lines with 1 gate valve each.

Can I see a pic of how you plugged the line?

 

[Greg P]

The plug worked like a champ and made it dead silent. Just seems to not have as much flow through the sump. Wondering if i should just add a gate valve after both drain lines near socks to fix problem and be able to run both drains silent.

thank you all for help

Flow through the sump shouldn't have changed as all you've done is raised the back box height - unless you did something with the return pump.

Adding a valve after will allow you to run both pipes, but your flow will still be limited to the 1 line before the final Tee. I'm not sure what potential balancing issues may arise in the future if one of the pipes starts to plug with critters.

Personally, I'd decide either Herbie or Bean and redo the lines from the box down.
And because your through bulkheads are kinda in the way, I'd run a Herbie and be done with it. But if you have enough room in the back box to successfully setup a proper Bean the choice is yours.

For a Herbie, I'd securely plug the right line in the back box and remove all the tied-together plumbing.
Run the left drain with a threaded Gate valve installed in the horizontal run to the left of center and replace everything from there back up to the box.
If the drains are glued to the box you can use a coupler below the bulkhead.

 

[kris2for]

It won't be a Bean with the 2 drains tied together.
Adding the valve will allow you to get the end result of silence. Whichever one is open the most will be your height adjustment. But this won't flow any more than the single line between the valves and the sump can handle.

If you want to run a true Bean, you'll need to re-plumb 2 independent lines with 1 gate valve each.

Can I see a pic of how you plugged the line?

Just have left drain blocked with a 1inch cut and a cap

 

[kris2for]

Flow through the sump shouldn't have changed as all you've done is raised the back box height - unless you did something with the return pump.

Adding a valve after will allow you to run both pipes, but your flow will still be limited to the 1 line before the final Tee. I'm not sure what potential balancing issues may arise in the future if one of the pipes starts to plug with critters.

Personally, I'd decide either Herbie or Bean and redo the lines from the box down.
And because your through bulkheads are kinda in the way, I'd run a Herbie and be done with it. But if you have enough room in the back box to successfully setup a proper Bean the choice is yours.

For a Herbie, I'd securely plug the right line in the back box and remove all the tied-together plumbing.
Run the left drain with a threaded Gate valve installed in the horizontal run to the left of center and replace everything from there back up to the box.
If the drains are glued to the box you can use a coupler below the bulkhead.

Ya everything is glued and took forever to shim because uneven floor and DIY stand.

I guess easiest place to cut would be here at the intersection, and then what run the second line with 3 ft PVC to the socks also?

oh also ordered a cheap 15$ gate valve off amazon to help with adjustments

 

[Greg P]

A lot of how you mod things will depend on whether you want a Bean or a Herbie.
I've run a Herbie on a 75g for about 8 years with never a flood or noise issue. My back box is capable of a Bean but I couldn't be bothered with the extra cost and plumbing.

What style do you want to use?

 

[kris2for]

Ya everything is glued and took forever to shim because uneven floor and DIY stand.

I guess easiest place to cut would be here at the intersection, and then what run the second line with 3 ft PVC to the socks also?

A lot of how you mod things will depend on whether you want a Bean or a Herbie.
I've run a Herbie on a 75g for about 8 years with never a flood or noise issue. My back box is capable of a Bean but I couldn't be bothered with the extra cost and plumbing.

What style do you want to use?

Left side with plug wont fit a bean animal U pipe just straight. Right side only drain that the U fit.

Idc I'm new to all this and wish guy that did it did a diff way. Just trying ez noobie fix to please wife. Cant be loud as it's in living so next to TV. Already 100% better after your suggestion.

 

[kris2for]

I'm from planted tank and fish only so all this plumbing and sump new to me other then reading and videos

 

[Greg P]

Left side with plug wont fit a bean animal U pipe just straight. Right side only drain that the U fit.

Idc I'm new to all this and wish guy that did it did a diff way. Just trying ez noobie fix to please wife. Cant be loud as it's in living so next to TV. Already 100% better after your suggestion.

Glad to hear it's quieter. Our tank is beside the TV as well, and we sleep there, so silence is a must.

I'll offer 2 solutions with the recommendation of a Herbie.

1 - This is the simplest/cheapest.
Cut in the new Gate Valve in the horizontal run after the twin drains Tee and leave the current Ball Valve wide open.

2 - My preferred solution, but I've done TONS of tank plumbing so for me it's simple.
Replace one of the left/right bulkheads with a thread/thread one and plug it inside the box with a threaded plug. This way you can use it in the future if you change your mind.
Or glue it shut inside the box with your short pipe and cap. Either way, seal it so it can't leak, and remove the pipe below (even if it's just enough to get it out of your way).
Run the other left/right bulkhead to the sump with the new Gate Valve where you will find it easiest to adjust while still allowing room for in-sump equipment.

TIP
Having the handle on the gate valve as close to the top as possible will help keep sediment from settling in the bottom of the body.
For instance, having the handle on the bottom will allow crud to accumulate in the body beside the gate.
Having the valve in a vertical run will work fine, but I don't see enough room below the stand to do this.

Using a union both before and after the new valve is a good idea for future maintenance/replacement.

 

[kris2for]

Glad to hear it's quieter. Our tank is beside the TV as well, and we sleep there, so silence is a must.

I'll offer 2 solutions with the recommendation of a Herbie.

1 - This is the simplest/cheapest.
Cut in the new Gate Valve in the horizontal run after the twin drains Tee and leave the current Ball Valve wide open.

2 - My preferred solution, but I've done TONS of tank plumbing so for me it's simple.
Replace one of the left/right bulkheads with a thread/thread one and plug it inside the box with a threaded plug. This way you can use it in the future if you change your mind.
Or glue it shut inside the box with your short pipe and cap. Either way, seal it so it can't leak, and remove the pipe below (even if it's just enough to get it out of your way).
Run the other left/right bulkhead to the sump with the new Gate Valve where you will find it easiest to adjust while still allowing room for in-sump equipment.

TIP
Having the handle on the gate valve as close to the top as possible will help keep sediment from settling in the bottom of the body.
For instance, having the handle on the bottom will allow crud to accumulate in the body beside the gate.
Having the valve in a vertical run will work fine, but I don't see enough room below the stand to do this.

Using a union both before and after the new valve is a good idea for future maintenance/replacement.

Think I'm just going to easy fix and cut in a gate valve so I can use both drains.

So the only way to "do it right" is if I cut off the drain lines at T and add another separate line running parallel to current line for 2 separate drains for a bean animal?

 

[kris2for]

something like this

 

[Greg P]

There is no fixed "do it right".
If you want a Herbie, my thought of the do it right way is my suggestion of blocking 1 bulkhead.
If you want a Bean, turning the left into the main siphon and the right into the secondary (draining outside the socks) will work.
Keep in mind a Bean requires 2 x Gate Valves, and the subsequent plumbing in the back box.

Yes, your drawing will work great, but remove the ball valve completely.
This can be done with the existing bulkhead plumbing by installing couplers to re-use the plumbing above your new parts.

 

[Greg P]

You can use either the left or right for the main and secondary if you have room in the back box. This is up to you, but I'd use the left as the main. This way you can run the secondary under it on the horizontal run and straight to the skimmer chamber/after the socks.

 

[Greg P]

Ideally with the Bean, your plan to run the main and secondary both to the sock chamber is best as the secondary always has a small trickle, but if they are each going directly to a sock, the secondary sock won't get much of a workout.
This means you've cut your filtering capacity in half (IMO).
My idea of running the secondary outside the socks means you'll have a small amount of 'stuff' bypassing the socks.
If your sock area had the ability for both to drain into a chamber before the socks it would be the best setup.