Low alkalinity low calcium low ph low nutrients help

I have a geo 618 for my 100 gallon I think it's 2 times oversized and I even went down to ph 6.2 to increase effluent alk and calcium but it didn't work and my ph tank was low only because my alkalinity was low that's why I stopped CR and giving a trial to 2 part brs but I would like to go back to CR
Another thing my ph drops when my lights are on I don't know why it was opposite before
 
A 618 should rock that tank- whats the rate of effluent?

I gotta assume all feed return lines are free of build up so I'd lean towards a slow rate of effluent was the culprit

As far as PH being lower while lights are on NO IDEA

One issue per thread please (LOL-just kidding)
 
Yes it should rock it but it wasn't that's why I'm trying to ask u guys a question why my 100 gallon requires so much additives ? I wish I could use just CR
 
Yes it should rock it but it wasn't that's why I'm trying to ask u guys a question why my 100 gallon requires so much additives ? I wish I could use just CR

Do you recall the water flow rate through it?
 
If you have a high enough flow rate with the alkalinity that you mentioned earlier, then the delivery of calcium and alkalinity to the tank could be a lot higher than with the other additives.

So when you increase the water flow rate, you either need to boost the CO2 addition rate (or allow a CO2 pH controller to do so for you). :)
 
Do u think it's better go back to CR
If you don't mind my opinion, yes I think its better that CR is more than capable of handling that tank even stuffed full of clams and SPS. I have literally 3-40"x20" frag tanks 100% SPS and my display, 90% SPS and the GEO 624 did fine up until about 5 months ago.

Increase the rate of effluent, increase the CO2 being injected and adjust accordingly, as I mentioned my rate of effluent is a solid stream~ 25-30mls per second (thats pretty fast IMO) and presently with a dual chamber the effluent is 7.1 which keep me dialed in at 8.24.
Having a nice dual stage regulator and a nice needle valve is a bonus as well, having both make adjustments much. Neither are required to accomplish your goal just saying looking forward if you don't have them its nice

I also use an acid titration method for measuring KH so its accuracy is pretty spot on and if you've got a PH probe that can be used easily I'd be happy to post how if interested.

Hope this helps :)
 
Thanks randy
Everything u saying is correct but how I should back to ionic balance just water changes every 2 weeks or something else?
 
Thanks randy
Everything u saying is correct but how I should back to ionic balance just water changes every 2 weeks or something else?

You mean if using a two part?

Depending on what you use, there may not be any significant imbalance, and if there is, water changes will help. :)
 
Hi randy
Happy holidays !
I have a question for u
How u quarantine saltwater fish I had no success lately they stop eating and die
Need help
Thanks
 
Still needs help with alkalinity and calcium I can't keep them in balance I changed water every week 10 % with Red Sea pro salt and can not reach a state of balance calcium and alkalinity and I'm using a kalkwasser as a top off drip any idea why allalinity keeps on low site ?
 
I switched CR for 2 part additives BRS and adding 45 ml alk and 10 ml calcium
Alk 138 ppm and calcium 420
I like all 150 ppm but if I boost alk to 150 calcium goes down to 380 why it's so difficult to maintain
 
I switched CR for 2 part additives BRS and adding 45 ml alk and 10 ml calcium
Alk 138 ppm and calcium 420
I like all 150 ppm but if I boost alk to 150 calcium goes down to 380 why it's so difficult to maintain

You need to regularly add both in the proper proportions (meaning equal amounts, or close to it).
 
No I'm adding more alkalinity than calcium do u think that's why or I should raise magnesium to 1500 to see if it stabilizes balance
 
I used to use only kalkwasser till later I realized that alkalinity low calcium normal that's why I'm doing more alkalinity
 

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