Low Alkalinity

Lol I've tried following Red Sea's recipes but seriously, it was more stressful for my system to be so far out from where it 'wanted' to be. Every system is different. Don't get hung up on 'special recipes'. You'll learn where YOUR tank thrives over time.
Seems too good to be true, I guess. Thank you :)
Sorry, and thanks to Daddy-O for catching my typo ...

Try to keep your Alk levels closer to 7.7-8.0 if your tank is nutrient poor ...
All right, thank you so much for all of the help :) I’ll definitely be doing some more research in the future.
 
I was down to 5.6 for a couple weeks, all my montis still growing, acros still growing... I wouldn't panic, OP ;) steady as she goes, just bring it up over the next 3 or so weeks, nothing drastic.

Agree, I ran 5.0 for a month and all my SPS were growing and looking well. A heavy SPS tank on another forum runs alk at 5.6 and it looks fantastic.

I doubt low alk is the issue. Maybe an ALK SWING but not a stable low alk
 
So higher nutrients mean higher alkalinity. Okay, I will see where my nitrates and phosphates are after these water changes and new absorbing media, and then I will adjust my alkalinity based on that. I'm thinking it will most likely need to be closer to 8 dKH. Thank you :)

with higher nutrients, you can put alk pretty much anywhere you want it in the roughly 7-11 dKH range, with typically faster hard coral growth at the high end. With lower nutrients you will want lower alk to make sure you do not get burnt tips, possibly from coral skeletons growing faster than the tissue can keep up.
 
Agree, I ran 5.0 for a month and all my SPS were growing and looking well. A heavy SPS tank on another forum runs alk at 5.6 and it looks fantastic.

I doubt low alk is the issue. Maybe an ALK SWING but not a stable low alk
I think an alkalinity swing is what most likely happened.

Any ideas on how to rearrange this to meet the needs of each coral? I don’t think the SPS are getting any direct flow right now, and if I were to point the wavemaker at them, the favias would not be happy. I’m gonna have to move the rocks around most likely. The favias, anemone, and Xenia are the only ones attached.
with higher nutrients, you can put alk pretty much anywhere you want it in the roughly 7-11 dKH range, with typically faster hard coral growth at the high end. With lower nutrients you will want lower alk to make sure you do not get burnt tips, possibly from coral skeletons growing faster than the tissue can keep up.
all righty, thank you for clarifying. I will be double checking my phosphates and nitrates throughout the week to see where my alkalinity should be at.

image.jpg
 
You really need to get your test kits squared away. Before you start trying to make changes.
Did I read that right, your using an API freshwater test for no3?
Don't spend any more money on supplements until you get serious about testing.
If you are relying on API freshwater test results, then you might as well ask a magic 8 ball if your levels are right.
I don't even trust API saltwater tests.
 
You really need to get your test kits squared away. Before you start trying to make changes.
Did I read that right, your using an API freshwater test for no3?
Don't spend any more money on supplements until you get serious about testing.
If you are relying on API freshwater test results, then you might as well ask a magic 8 ball if your levels are right.
I don't even trust API saltwater tests.
The API freshwater and saltwater chemicals are the same stuff in different packaging; saltwater test kit just has excludes one of the pH tests. I will see today if I can get my LFS to test my nitrates with Salifert. If not, then I will have to purchase one. Regardless, the tank does need adjustments because the acros don’t seem to be getting enough flow/lighting. I didn’t come into this hobby prepared and I’m paying for that right now. I’m just trying my best to work with what I have at the moment.

EDIT: When sold separately and not as a master test kit, the chemicals even have color charts for both saltwater and freshwater. I’m just defending myself right here because that was the whole reason I never bought their saltwater test kits.
 
The API freshwater and saltwater chemicals are the same stuff in different packaging; saltwater test kit just has excludes one of the pH tests. I will see today if I can get my LFS to test my nitrates with Salifert. If not, then I will have to purchase one. Regardless, the tank does need adjustments because the acros don’t seem to be getting enough flow/lighting. I didn’t come into this hobby prepared and I’m paying for that right now. I’m just trying my best to work with what I have at the moment.
In the absence of reliable test numbers. Water changes are the best and only way to correct parameters.
If it were me I would use any salt I had to do frequent water changes until I was confident the tank water reflected the fresh salt water.
Also, if you are using Reef Crystals and your alk still seems to be going down, make sure your magnesium is within acceptable range. Without acceptable magnesium levels you won't be able to achieve any stability in alkalinity or calcium.
 
In the absence of reliable test numbers. Water changes are the best and only way to correct parameters.
If it were me I would use any salt I had to do frequent water changes until I was confident the tank water reflected the fresh salt water.
Also, if you are using Reef Crystals and your alk still seems to be going down, make sure your magnesium is within acceptable range. Without acceptable magnesium levels you won't be able to achieve any stability in alkalinity or calcium.
Thank you very much, I do have Salifert’s magnesium test kit. I am performing a water change today (20%) and testing alkalinity again. I will check magnesium with my test kit and nitrates at LFS. I’m going to attempt to rearrange the scape as well, although I’m a bit scared. And I am no longer using RC, but Red Sea.

EDIT: As you may know, it was suggested above that I start dosing alkalinity and calcium, so I am going to start doing that as well.
 
Thank you very much, I do have Salifert’s magnesium test kit. I am performing a water change today (20%) and testing alkalinity again. I will check magnesium with my test kit and nitrates at LFS. I’m going to attempt to rearrange the scape as well, although I’m a bit scared. And I am no longer using RC, but Red Sea.

EDIT: As you may know, it was suggested above that I start dosing alkalinity and calcium, so I am going to start doing that as well.
I know a lot of people like RS's tests but in my experience, they're noticeably less accurate/precise when compared to Salifert's tests. Reliable, accurate tests kits are paramount. I wouldn't touch API with a 10ft pole...
 
I know a lot of people like RS's tests but in my experience, they're noticeably less accurate/precise when compared to Salifert's tests. Reliable, accurate tests kits are paramount. I wouldn't touch API with a 10ft pole...
I will for sure be looking into a better test kit for nitrates ASAP. Is the Salifert good? I used Aquaforest for my alkalinity.
 
I will for sure be looking into a better test kit for nitrates ASAP. Is the Salifert good? I used Aquaforest for my alkalinity.
Salifert is arguably the best for no3. Salifert are very good for most elements. From what I understand so are Aquaforest. The exeption is po4, which the Hanna Ultra low range checkers are the only affordable option that tests po4 in the range necessary for reef keeping.
 
Salifert is arguably the best for no3. Salifert are very good for most elements. From what I understand so are Aquaforest. The exeption is po4, which the Hanna Ultra low range checkers are the only affordable option that tests po4 in the range necessary for reef keeping.
Yeah, I have Salifert’s phosphate and I had trouble telling between some ranges. It looked between 0.1-0.25, closer to the higher end. I just finished rearranging the tank. The corals will be stressed for the time being, but I’m hoping the change will be worth it. There is a lot more light and flow directed at the acros now. I might invest in a better light, but I don’t know if it’s necessary ATM. Gotta get everything else handled first. I will be testing the water in just a bit.
 
The issue underlying that is most men are partially colorblind (even if you can pass the standard eye doctor tests). Makes it more difficult for us to discern shades. If you have a lady in the house, they may have a much easier time getting an accurate reading (I always ask to get a second opinion and am surprised sometimes myself, and have good color perception)
 
The issue underlying that is most men are partially colorblind (even if you can pass the standard eye doctor tests). Makes it more difficult for us to discern shades. If you have a lady in the house, they may have a much easier time getting an accurate reading (I always ask to get a second opinion and am surprised sometimes myself, and have good color perception)
I like that you assume I’m a man haha. I’ll get a second opinion from everyone else here with the phosphates. They look like they’re in the higher range to me. I will test again tomorrow because this was right after I rearranged everything. I might have kicked some stuff up from the sand. The alkalinity increased to 6.6 dKH, which as predicted is not a lot. Two part will hopefully arrive tomorrow or the day after, and I will bring it up to a better level slowly but surely based on whether or not my nutrients go down. I think my LFS might be closed today, but I will double check. If so, I will get nitrates checked tomorrow. About to check mag.

8D608589-B639-4C92-8CEE-EF4E5DC10527.jpeg 8E16B7A1-1D3B-48B9-A264-BD0A93E966CC.jpeg
 
I like that you assume I’m a man haha...
I had a voice in the back of my head saying that might bite me in the butt. Females suffer from colorblindness at a small fraction that men do. I was generalizing at least :)

The po4 test is what I refer to as the 'eye test'. That's literally what I call it. And I used to work with glasses/optometrists/etc for a living. It's rough, the roughest of all IMO to get 'right'. To even attempt from pictures, I'd need to see the vial from the top (as it's directed to be read) on top of the color card next to it's closest matching color(s).
 
Okay, here you go. Does anyone have the Salifert mag test? I used 3 mL of tank water, 6 drops of bottle one, one scoop of the powder, and then the third reagent with my syringe. It’s showing that the levels are way off the charts. I’m gonna try it again, just want to make sure I’m doing this right.

0FC4515E-4572-4C4C-9165-42B3CE2D2368.jpeg
 
Okay, here you go. Does anyone have the Salifert mag test? I used 3 mL of tank water, 6 drops of bottle one, one scoop of the powder, and then the third reagent with my syringe. It’s showing that the levels are way off the charts. I’m gonna try it again, just want to make sure I’m doing this right.

Looks closer to .25, maybe even lower, to ME. I emphasize me. Keep in mind reading is meant to be taken immediately after the second step is mixed for 30 seconds. Color may change after but no clue how much/little.

I have a Salifert mag test but not with me at the moment. Hopefully someone can chime in. Keep in mind their tests are batched for consistency/accuracy so some small things can change from time to time/batch to batch.
 
Last edited:
The phosphates look like 0.25 to me, but they look like they COULD be 0.5. Also, I just redid the mag test using 2 mL of water and 4 drops of bottle one because I’m quite positive those were the directions that came with my batch. Now it’s not way off the charts, but exactly 1500. On the higher end, but I don’t think this would bother any of the coral, would it? I keep the water between 1.026-1.027 as suggested a while ago when my magnesium levels used to be too low; that could probably explain the level. Should I test for calcium? It’s API’s.
 
If alkalinity isn’t the issue, what else could it be? My nitrates usually measure at 5-10 ppm with API, but I can double check today. Should I stick with Reef Crystals then? I’ve never dosed my tank before. Are there any brands you’d recommend? Would baking soda work for alkalinity?
I use Red Sea Coral Pro, (black bucket) and my Alk with dosing stays at a rock solid 9.4, my Ca is 450-460. It would be a good salt for you seeing you have mixed tank
 
I use Red Sea Coral Pro, (black bucket) and my Alk with dosing stays at a rock solid 9.4, my Ca is 450-460. It would be a good salt for you seeing you have mixed tank
Thanks for the suggestion :) If my nutrient levels stay this high, I will totally make the switch just because that’s exactly where I’d want my alkalinity to be. I regret buying the regular Red Sea, but I have to use it up before I can go to the other one. Don’t wanna let it go to waste.
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%

New Posts

Back
Top