Low magnesium and/or high calcium causing bleaching?

JCrowe86

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I picked up a handfull of nice frogspawn pieces from a local reefer. In my tank they have bleached out a good bit in less than 2 weeks. I have low/med flow and tested par at around 100-120 in the area that I have them. We use the same salt but I'm not sure of his levels. In testing over the past week Alk is good around 8.5, calcium is high for some reason at 520 and mag was at 1290. I'm slowing bringing the magnesium up and trying to lower calcium down with water changes. Do you think that could be the reason for the bleaching as the lighting doesn't seem like it would be too strong. I have a sky and he runs xr15s on a smaller cube.
 
I picked up a handfull of nice frogspawn pieces from a local reefer. In my tank they have bleached out a good bit in less than 2 weeks. I have low/med flow and tested par at around 100-120 in the area that I have them. We use the same salt but I'm not sure of his levels. In testing over the past week Alk is good around 8.5, calcium is high for some reason at 520 and mag was at 1290. I'm slowing bringing the magnesium up and trying to lower calcium down with water changes. Do you think that could be the reason for the bleaching as the lighting doesn't seem like it would be too strong. I have a sky and he runs xr15s on a smaller cube.
Likely both. Calcium also affects alk
What test kits are you using?
Ca- 400-440
Mag 1300-1350
Alk 8-11dkh
Temp 77-79
Salinity 1.025
Nitrate <10
Phos <.04
 
Some pictures might help for the frogspawn experts. I don't think your levels are that off, and your plan to normalize the calcium and magnesium levels seems fine. It could be the lighting, yes. I find that my euphyllia prefer lower lighting and flow, and low to medium PAR (100-150).
 
Likely both. Calcium also affects alk
What test kits are you using?
Ca- 400-440
Mag 1300-1350
Alk 8-11dkh
Temp 77-79
Salinity 1.025
Nitrate <10
Phos <.04
Monitoring with my trident but I've spot checked with hanna and salifert and they haven't been far off. I'm at 35ppt with the hanna checker, 77.5 temp. Phos .06 and Nitrates at 19.
 
Monitoring with my trident but I've spot checked with hanna and salifert and they haven't been far off. I'm at 35ppt with the hanna checker, 77.5 temp. Phos .06 and Nitrates at 19.
Nitrates need to come down a tad
My suggestion- add chemipure blue to keep both no3 and pi4 in check
 
My euphy are generally very tolerant of nitrates. They don’t do near as well in low nutrient system. A picture could be helpful.
sometimes fixes are as simple as moving them to a new spot in the tank, other times - not so much!
 
I have heard frequently about lower magnesium causing issues with Euphyllia so I assume there is something to it, but I only does MG maybe once a month and it drops quite low between and I never notice any difference whatsoever to any of my coral (and I have a few dozen frags or small colonies of euphyllia). It may be that I am lucky or maybe it is low MG combined with some other factors that really cause the issue. I would not count on raising MG from 1290 to be a fix for the hammers (but it certainly wont hurt).
 
Now that water is discussed, some things about frogspawn . . . . These coral are photosynthetic and therefore respond to UV strength and increase/reduction in lighting. One of the more important requirements for frogspawn is Placement. It is an overlooked element that contributes to the overall acclimation and sustainability of your frogspawn. Some hobbyists simply choose to, Put it where is looks best but to reduce the amount of strain on your specimen, you should ideally place it in an area of your tank similar to the area in which you found it when you purchased it or where there is moderate light.
Another consideration to account for during the placement of your coral is the amount of light it will be receiving. This decision should never be random; should never be haphazard. Although capable of doing quite well in a relatively large range of lighting levels, ideally, your Frogspawn Corals do best when provided a moderate amount of lighting, with many hobbyists finding success with an added bit, or partial, shading. Euphyllia (theyre a member of this group) do not enjoy direct high lighting. Keep in mind that the amount of lighting and the degree of water flow work hand-in-hand in sustaining healthy coral life and growth. Although technically capable of survival, frogspawn DO NOT appreciate high or even moderately high flow. They will open much bigger in gentle flow, and will be able to grow into those beautiful serene tendrils that you see swaying within your habitat. (see my pic below- this was a size of a quarter a year ago and now 6"x4")
I cannot overemphasize the incredible importance of both lighting as well as placement. Never, ever haphazardly place your corals, select your lighting, or randomly pair different specimens or species within a tank, and just hope for the best. Remember, like any coral, Frogspawn Coral requires a very specific amount of lighting, and in this case, it’s not a whole lot. Unlike many other corals, Frogspawn Corals don’t require a whole lot of lighting. They are also 100 PAR, but even levels as low as 50 PAR will work well for this beautiful species.
To ensure successful acclimation, growth, and just overall, general health, your Frogspawn Corals prefer a moderate to strong water flow within your habitat. Interestingly enough, you can control the growth .If you want to look for a more contract compacted look, a higher flow will help you to achieve that. If you want a more extended, sway appearance from your Frogspawn, a low to moderate flow. Aesthetically, what originally drew hobbyists to this coral was its ability to serenely sway in the currents.

Frogspawn are not the most aggressive eaters. Broadcast feeding is typically the easiest, most effective approach. Additionally, if there is too great a flow, or if there are fish in your habitat that are aggressively harassing them, they’re just not going to eat. Even if they are able to successfully get the food into their mouths, they often quickly spit it back out--quick enough where they may not even be digesting any of the food. By trying to directly feed, you are much more likely to develop an algae problem from uneaten food accumulating in your tank than you are to find success in direct feeding.
Follow these simple steps and let it take its' course. Theyre easy enough to meet the care needed and yes, they do shrink in the evening. One test- Increase your lighting a little once they shrink, and within the hour, you will see them puff up again.

Here are a couple pics of my frogspawn and euphyllia:

1646344571391.png
600g progress j.jpg
 

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