Lowering levels of 0

[saltyfilmfolks]

I would fix the tank with a proven spot kill action, and make sure the sandbed isn't storing detritus and if it is, cleaning that up too

Some folks try to figure out how PaulB has the oldest tank around. Immunity, worms, ozone, natural sea water, mud, or supermodels.
Ive been reading his stuff for a lot of years, and Im pretty sure its just because he cleans his tank.

 

[rayn]

I clean the sand bed during every other water change.

I'm debating adding a sumo to this tank, for added water volume and a better skimmer.

I've followed Paul for a while too. Little eccentric, but good info. Supermodels aren't bad either.

 

[brandon429]

Paul uses atypical designs including rugf, dilution compared to smaller challenge tanks and an ATS which is unusual bed design in reefing. The way he keeps the bed clean is the standout factor to me

He's dealing with sinks but not sinking



He has access to natural materials vs the landlocked + and a deft skill at anticipating common reef tank maladies for sure. It's really hard to copy his system into the common tank with algae challenges

The big turnaround threads are action based right up until vibrant came into play lol

 

[rayn]

I don't think anyone can duplicate his tank. Come on, he uses a hndwrgravel filter! Who does that anymore?!? Granted I have thought about it.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley Verified Community Expert]

I understand that algae consumes either nitrate or phosphate or both to grow. Add that with the amount of light and we have the perfect breeding ground for it.

But upon testing my tank I have per salifert...nitrate of 0. Per Hanna checker...phosphate of 0.00.

I still have a small start of HA starting. How do I go about lowering the levels if there isn't anything to detect?

Not "OR". It must have a source of BOTH N and P.

The levels may be below detection limits just because the algae is taking it up, or due to testing errors.