Lowering nitrates with media reactor

[mpjmeyer]

How long does it take for a media reactor to start lowering nitrates? I've had a problem with nitrates, even after large water changes. I took a water sample to my lfs which I've been shopping at since I got into the hobby. I only like dealing with the owners son because he is very knowledgable with saltwater. On Sunday, he tested my water and gave me a great deal on a media reactor for 50% off to help stabalize the levels. I also got a draw string mesh bag and carbon to put into the sump. How soon does it usually take for a media reactor to start working the nitrates?

 

[40B Knasty]

There so many things that can cause high nitrates. If you want to figure it out and make your tank a machine. List what you have running/working for you.
How many lbs of live rock and what kind?
What size tank?
What size water change?
When do you do a water change?
What kind of filtration?
What kind of skimmer?
What is your nitrates at?
How many fish?
Add a pic so we can help younger that under control. Test the water you are using that you are putting in the tank that is new.

 

[Long Island Andy]

Hi how large is the tank and is it a reef tank or fish only

 

[mcarroll]

How long does it take for a media reactor to start lowering nitrates?

Days to weeks, depending on circumstances.

It's easy to overshoot your goal and actually cause problems using one of these, so keep a close eye on things while they develop, at least until you see the reactor's effect on the tank start to normalize.

2¢

 

[mpjmeyer]

Tank is about 3 months old. First 2 clown fish were introduced Feb. 26

-65 lbs. Fiji dry live rock from BRS
-65 gallon tank with 10 gallon fuge and 5 gallons in sump
-10-15% water changes every Sunday
-Sponge filter in sump
-Lifereef protein skimmer
-Nitrates are 20+ according to Red Sea test kit
-2 clown fish, 1 shrimp, 2 conch snails, about 6 other snails

 

[mcarroll]

Tank is about 3 months old.

Ouch!!

I'm not sure I would have taken any action at all on a tank that new. Nitrates don't really hurt anything and the tank's still breaking in.

Certainly don't add any more fish for a good while until things seem more stable. If you plan to add corals, now would be a good time to start SLOWLY introducing them.

And watch that reactor....do not let it strip the tank.

It's really out of place on a new tank. If the LFS knew the age of the tank, then you have a right to be suspicious of their advice going forward. (I realize at 50% off it was basically a clearance item....but you didn't need it at all.)

Those nitrates aren't going to last once you have some growth in the tank – and then the tank will be starving (especially corals and algae) just to benefit that reactor once NO3 and PO4 are down to undetectable levels. You should worry about this like you'd worry about calcium and alkalinity getting too low. The downside to this might even be worse, in fact.

Speaking of phosphate, you're also going to need to hawk PO4 as well as nitrates. If PO4 crashes to zero because of the newness of the tank, then you're inviting real pest algae in the form of toxic dino's, cyano or whatever else.

Zero PO4 makes everyone angry that it doesn't outright kill.

I'm sorry to say it, but I would personally shut down the pellet reactor and save it for when you have a bio-load that would be capable of feeding it.

 

[40B Knasty]

Tank is about 3 months old. First 2 clown fish were introduced Feb. 26

-65 lbs. Fiji dry live rock from BRS
-65 gallon tank with 10 gallon fuge and 5 gallons in sump
-10-15% water changes every Sunday
-Sponge filter in sump
-Lifereef protein skimmer
-Nitrates are 20+ according to Red Sea test kit
-2 clown fish, 1 shrimp, 2 conch snails, about 6 other snails

You have a very very low bioload. I am guessing you might have a bad kit or you are way over feeding, but I highly doubt that is the case. Have you had the tests done at your LFS and see what they get?
I just had a friend testing 40ppm out of the tap. City came and took a test and it was 3.4ppm.
I also just had mine tested today. The nitrates were off in a good way haha. I was reading 20ppm. The actual test was 12ppm. Which is still high to me.
Also the bottle to calibrate my refractometer was WAY off. Thank god I run it low because I always worried about fluctuating so I went for 1.0235. Well my test really should have been reading 1.026-1.027.

 

[glb]

20 ppm is fine for fish only. I wouldn't worry about it until you plan to add corals.

 

[mpjmeyer]

Yes after I tested high nitrates, I took a sample to my lfs and they also said my nitrates were very high. I was about ready to get a bubbletip that day but they suggested that was a bad idea as of now. They know how old my tank is, been going there since week 1 with water samples during cycling

 

[mcarroll]

20 ppm is fine for fish only. I wouldn't worry about it until you plan to add corals.

And even then, corals eat nitrates.

Yes after I tested high nitrates, I took a sample to my lfs and they also said my nitrates were very high. I was about ready to get a bubbletip that day but they suggested that was a bad idea as of now. They know how old my tank is, been going there since week 1 with water samples during cycling

Do you know how long nitrates have been that high, BTW? And what are your other test numbers? (Include any commentary on testing history that you think is relevant too!)

 

[mcarroll]

20 ppm is fine for fish only. I wouldn't worry about it until you plan to add corals.

And even then, corals eat nitrates.

Yes after I tested high nitrates, I took a sample to my lfs and they also said my nitrates were very high. I was about ready to get a bubbletip that day but they suggested that was a bad idea as of now. They know how old my tank is, been going there since week 1 with water samples during cycling

Do you know how long nitrates have been that high, BTW? And what are your other test numbers?

 

[glb]

And even then, corals eat nitrates.

You're right. It's such a relief!

Do you know how long nitrates have been that high, BTW? And what are your other test numbers?

 

[mpjmeyer]

I think I may have found the problem. I made the mistake of never rinsing my foam filter sponge in the sump which I think ended up turning into a nitrate factory. Today, I did a 35 gallon water change, cleaned skimmer, vacuumed sand bed and rinsed the heck out of the sponge which bring me to my next question....
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/to-foam-sponge-filter-or-not.301189/

 

[mpjmeyer]

Thoughts

 

[40B Knasty]

Sounds about right. I rinse every week AND the day after a really good cleaning of GHA. All that GHA just turns into decay.

 

[mcarroll]

Excellent sleuthing!

If you can clean the sponge as often as it takes to keep it clean then I would not use it. It's very possible you might need to clean it every day....which is okay if that's not a pain for you. But if it is a pain, I'd almost surely lose the sponge.

 

[mpjmeyer]

Should I replace it with anything?

 

[40B Knasty]

Nope. Just a good rinse every water change. My personal favorite chemical media is a fluffy bag of Purigen. I buy a small bottle of Purigen and a bag that holds fine particles. That way I can form fit it to the size needed in its holding area. It lasts 6 months also. Great for ammonia & nitrates.

 

[mpjmeyer]

Nope. Just a good rinse every water change.

I'm sorry, just a tad confused by this. Nope I shouldn't replace it? Rinse it every water change if I'm not putting it back in? Please clarify for me

 

[40B Knasty]

Drain water from tank into a bucket when doing a water change. Take the sponge media and place it into the bucket of tank water. Rinse the sponge media in that water in the bucket as best as you can. Take sponge media and put it back in your sponge holding area of your sump/HOB/canister filter.