Lowering Nitrates!

[rennjidk]

Yes! I wanted to do this originally. But was warned against it.

Idk who "warned" you about starting a fuge or why people are recommending nopox as a remedy for nitrates, but you need a solution to your problems, not a quick fix. You nutrient export is not matching your tanks ability to produce them. In the immediate future, you can do WC's to lower your No3. A 30% WC is a 30% reduction. That part isn't complicated and pretty easy to do. I harvest a decent amount of chaeto each week. If you're interested and in the US, send me a PM and pay for the flat rate box. I'll send you a decent sized chunk for free, and Ill even dip it for you. You'll just need to pick up a chaeto light. I'd strongly recommend the IM light for an AIO as its 8w is perfect for the close proximity, but you could get away with a cheap amazon grow light for around $12.

 

[AydenLincoln]

Idk who "warned" you about starting a fuge or why people are recommending nopox as a remedy for nitrates, but you need a solution to your problems, not a quick fix. You nutrient export is not matching your tanks ability to produce them. In the immediate future, you can do WC's to lower your No3. A 30% WC is a 30% reduction. That part isn't complicated and pretty easy to do. I harvest a decent amount of chaeto each week. If you're interested and in the US, send me a PM and pay for the flat rate box. I'll send you a decent sized chunk for free, and Ill even dip it for you. You'll just need to pick up a chaeto light. I'd strongly recommend the IM light for an AIO as its 8w is perfect for the close proximity, but you could get away with a cheap amazon grow light for around $12.

I will thanks!

 

[Klyle]

Idk who "warned" you about starting a fuge or why people are recommending nopox as a remedy for nitrates, but you need a solution to your problems, not a quick fix. You nutrient export is not matching your tanks ability to produce them. In the immediate future, you can do WC's to lower your No3. A 30% WC is a 30% reduction. That part isn't complicated and pretty easy to do. I harvest a decent amount of chaeto each week. If you're interested and in the US, send me a PM and pay for the flat rate box. I'll send you a decent sized chunk for free, and Ill even dip it for you. You'll just need to pick up a chaeto light. I'd strongly recommend the IM light for an AIO as its 8w is perfect for the close proximity, but you could get away with a cheap amazon grow light for around $12.

I agree 100% with the wc's. And chaeto has awesome benefits. IME it increases the maintenance needed and adds complexity to the chemistry of your reef. Chaeto will use up the same elements your corals do. If you're running a fuge or reactor for nutrient control, you're probably not changing out enough water to keep those elements balanced. So then you start adding trace elements or chaetogro. I got tired of all the work and switched to carbon dosing. I found nopox to be much easier and it actually has benefits for your corals, as in it feeds them indirectly. But that's just me, everyone has different experiences. The op says they have a 20g so I think good feeding habits and wc's are the way to go- all day.

 

[Lavey29]

30 is not that high or harmful as others already stated. Less feeding and water changes bring that down easily. I encourage you to consider PNS probio which is a natural bacteria supplement that lowers nitrates by eliminating organic waste in the tank. It really benefits my tank currently.

 

[AydenLincoln]

30 is not that high or harmful as others already stated. Less feeding and water changes bring that down easily. I encourage you to consider PNS probio which is a natural bacteria supplement that lowers nitrates by eliminating organic waste in the tank. It really benefits my tank currently.

Really? So I don’t have to take my little guy back? Which honestly may stress the little guy out more.

 

[AydenLincoln]

Thanks for the encouragement guys! It means a lot. I may not end up taking the little guy back after all. I just did a 25% ish water change. I will look into that bacteria supplement. I did test my RODI water and it does indeed measure zero nitrates. I also cleaned the back chambers, skimmer, sponges, and replaced the filter sock.

 

[Lavey29]

Really? So I don’t have to take my little guy back? Which honestly may stress the little guy out more.

Well, you already know that starfish are difficult little creatures to keep long-term. They typically should probably be introduced to well established tanks with very stable bio eco systems functioning. I got mine to early also at 4 months but now a year later they have really settled in and become part of the tanks environment so hopefully yours can continue to acclimate as your tank matures.

 

[AydenLincoln]

Well, you already know that starfish are difficult little creatures to keep long-term. They typically should probably be introduced to well established tanks with very stable bio eco systems functioning. I got mine to early also at 4 months but now a year later they have really settled in and become part of the tanks environment so hopefully yours can continue to acclimate as your tank matures.

That’s good I know! I have no patience which I know is needed in this hobby and the 3 months was a long time to me haha.

 

[PeterEde]

Idk who "warned" you about starting a fuge or why people are recommending nopox as a remedy for nitrates, but you need a solution to your problems, not a quick fix. You nutrient export is not matching your tanks ability to produce them. In the immediate future, you can do WC's to lower your No3. A 30% WC is a 30% reduction. That part isn't complicated and pretty easy to do. I harvest a decent amount of chaeto each week. If you're interested and in the US, send me a PM and pay for the flat rate box. I'll send you a decent sized chunk for free, and Ill even dip it for you. You'll just need to pick up a chaeto light. I'd strongly recommend the IM light for an AIO as its 8w is perfect for the close proximity, but you could get away with a cheap amazon grow light for around $12.

I have Chaeto and although only in my fuge it has not done much for me nutrient reduction wise. I added Caulerpa and my nitrates dropped 20ppm. Just my experience.

 

[Moray_SC17]

Water change or carbon dosing with caution.

 

[GARRIGA]

I consistently allow nitrates to rise to 160 ppm then via only carbon dosing I drop it under 20 within 10 days. Do have a very large biological filter comparative to tank volume. Haven’t performed a WC in almost a year. It’s a test tank. Allows me to test theories and see for myself the best approach for an upcoming main display build.

BTW, not only does it stabilize alkalinity but also reduces phosphates. Granted one should be monitoring parameters which will prevent nitrates or phosphates from bottoming out. Moderation vs excess my approach

 

[sixty_reefer]

What phosphates do you have?

 

[Jedi1199]

I love my starfish I really do and I want what’s best for the little guy. I’ve been considering taking him back to the fish store as I spoke with them and they’d give me store credit if I do. But I think it may stress the little guy out more. My nitrates are so high right now around 30. Boohoo! He’s eating and behaving normally but his little spikes are eroding. I’ve also thought about quarantining the little guy until I can get my nitrates down and I actually got a false reading the one time on them so I did think they were coming down a lot but only came down 0.02 points. Recommendations? I love the little guy so much and I just want what’s best. I’ve been carbon dosing, I run a skimmer, and do weekly water changes. I also have been thinking about making my own RODI water I just need to buy a unit and salt. Is there a way to get them down quickly?

What phosphates do you have?

This is exactly the question I had.

Nitrates, In my own experience matter little. It's not about chasing numbers. It's about reaching stability across the board.

My 55g, when it was running, had nitrates well above 50 constantly. That tank thrived. 16 fish and well over 100 corals.

Consistency is the name of the game. Hard to do with a 20g I know.

Forget all of the advise about dosing nopox and whatever. Either increase your water change amount or do it more frequently.

Also, GET an RODI and make your own water. I would never trust a LFS water. Period, end of story. For a hundred bucks or so you could make your own and KNOW you have a trustable source. Salt is not that expensive over the long run.

 

[AydenLincoln]

This is exactly the question I had.

Nitrates, In my own experience matter little. It's not about chasing numbers. It's about reaching stability across the board.

My 55g, when it was running, had nitrates well above 50 constantly. That tank thrived. 16 fish and well over 100 corals.

Consistency is the name of the game. Hard to do with a 20g I know.

Forget all of the advise about dosing nopox and whatever. Either increase your water change amount or do it more frequently.

Also, GET an RODI and make your own water. I would never trust a LFS water. Period, end of story. For a hundred bucks or so you could make your own and KNOW you have a trustable source. Salt is not that expensive over the long run.

Okay. And 0.56 I know are high too. Does Seachmen Phosguard work?

 

[Jedi1199]

Okay. And 0.56 I know are high too. Does Seachmen Phosguard work?

Stop.. PLEASE for the love of all that's holy, STOP!!!


Quick fixes, cause more harm than good!!

Get an RODI unit. Make your own water and step up your water changes.!!

I STRONGLY suspect that your source water is the problem. A 20g tank should be simple enough to maintain with a simple 20% weekly water change. we are talking a measly 4g of new water every week. Maybe 3g every 4 days.

That's ALL you need. Nothing more!!! You don't need to chemically fix what a simple water change will do.. and you don't WANT to!!

Besides, with a tank that small, getting the balance right will be a never-ending battle,, you dose this, that goes off, then you dose for that and the other goes off.. is a never win fight.

Get an RODI unit, make your OWN water and do your water changes. Problem solved.

 

[sixty_reefer]

In all honestly your fine, those nutrients won’t kill any live stock, you just need to set a plan and stick to the plan, if you already Carbon dosing carry on with it, take your time and follow the chart to increase doses as required. If you have a star they may actually benefit from the increased microbiology that carbon dosing generates.
The best thing is not to panic and don’t rush it nutrients are fairly easy to keep at desired residual once you understand how everything works. Rodi unit would be a plus although not essential imo, I like to go to my LFS and pick up water every now and then it gives me a reason to go and have a look at the new stock and have a chat with the owner, it also helps my local small business every time I do so.
Good luck with your venture and don’t stressed to much

 

[AydenLincoln]

Stop.. PLEASE for the love of all that's holy, STOP!!!


Quick fixes, cause more harm than good!!

Get an RODI unit. Make your own water and step up your water changes.!!

I STRONGLY suspect that your source water is the problem. A 20g tank should be simple enough to maintain with a simple 20% weekly water change. we are talking a measly 4g of new water every week. Maybe 3g every 4 days.

That's ALL you need. Nothing more!!! You don't need to chemically fix what a simple water change will do.. and you don't WANT to!!

Besides, with a tank that small, getting the balance right will be a never-ending battle,, you dose this, that goes off, then you dose for that and the other goes off.. is a never win fight.

Get an RODI unit, make your OWN water and do your water changes. Problem solved.

I did just test it! It measured 0 nitrates. I do water changes weekly. I could increase it.

 

[neilldrever]

Impatience and constantly trying to adjust parameters is the issue. The tank has barely begun to start settling and maturing and already you're trying to change things and only creating more issues.

A nano tank doesn't require dosing of anything, simple regular water changes will keep everything in check.
Start with mastering the basics and allow the tank to mature before trying to modify things.

 

[sixty_reefer]

Technically water changes to control nutrients in our hobby are considered bandages, they don’t promote nutrient or chemical stability the larger the water change the larger the swing in parameters can be.
They a effective way to remove pollutants or to add trace, biological and mechanical filtration will always be key to nutrient stability I’m not a believer that someone should rely on water to long therm control nutrients.

 

[AydenLincoln]

I’ve been carbon dosing only a few drops a day along with cleaning out the back chambers, rinsing the sponges, a water change, and replacing the filter sock/carbon. My nitrates are down 28 from 30 and my phosphates went from 0.56 to zero since last Friday so 7 days of dosing. Did I drop my phosphates too quickly? I’m about to have a dinoflagellate aren’t I? Can I continue dosing my nitrates still aren’t where I want them to be. I’ve been dosing less than 1 ML. I also bought some Instant Ocean salt/distilled water and will be making my own saltwater.