Lowering phosphate

Spot feed some days I get lazy and broadcast feed
You might have to use something else if you’re gonna broadcast, look into benepets instead as they won’t spike your numbers as bad and also you’ll get a better feeding response. I also think you should be using chemipure blue to help keep the phosphates in check
 
I second the Benereef. It actually lowered my po4. I broadcast feed it three times a week after lights out.
 
Not sure what PhosGuard is, but if it is anything like GFO (which I use constantly) 0.9 would probably require me to change GFO daily to see that number drop.
 
No one's mentioned lanthanum chloride, which is most effective at lowering phosphates. Must run a skimmer or 5 micron filter to remove the precipitate from the water column. Remove gfo before use.
Phosphate e is the product I use, diluted 50:1, dripped over 4 hours into the overflow and caught with 5 micron filter sox.
Don't lower po4 more than 0.5 ppm per day. Once below 0.2ppm, use gfo.
 
No one's mentioned lanthanum chloride, which is most effective at lowering phosphates. Must run a skimmer or 5 micron filter to remove the precipitate from the water column. Remove gfo before use.
Phosphate e is the product I use, diluted 50:1, dripped over 4 hours into the overflow and caught with 5 micron filter sox.
Don't lower po4 more than 0.5 ppm per day. Once below 0.2ppm, use gfo.

Yes, I have lanthanum chloride in the arsenal :) in the form of Phosphate RX, however as you point out you need very fine filtration because if the bound phosphate particles end up in the water column it can be harmful to sensitive fish like Tangs.

It's a useful tool when used with a big serving of caution.

Regards
Graham.
 
So I tested mi RODI water here are the results I might add that the water is cold it’s not at 78 degrees . Would I have to replace the DI resin on my RODI setup !?
 

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So I tested mi RODI water here are the results I might add that the water is cold it’s not at 78 degrees . Would I have to replace the DI resin on my RODI setup !?
I'm not 100% certain, but I'm pretty sure that the Hanna checker only works correctly with Saltwater.

I'd mix some fresh salt water, and then measure the phosphates in that.
 
I'm not 100% certain, but I'm pretty sure that the Hanna checker only works correctly with Saltwater.

I'd mix some fresh salt water, and then measure the phosphates in that.
Even then, @Randy Holmes-Farley has continuously proved phos from RODI is nowt, compared to what is added via food, just sayin. If RODI TDS is zero, it should be good
 
Not sure what PhosGuard is, but if it is anything like GFO (which I use constantly) 0.9 would probably require me to change GFO daily to see that number drop.

Yes, a big drop takes a lot of binder.
 
Here's the discussion Garf is referring to:


Comparison of Food Sources of Phosphate to Other Sources
What about other sources of phosphate, like the “crappy” RO/DI water containing 0.05 ppm phosphate? A similar analysis will show it equally unimportant relative to foods.

Let’s assume that the aquarist in question adds 1% of the total tank volume each day with RO/DI to replace evaporation. Simple math shows that the 0.05 ppm in the RO/DI becomes 0.0005 ppm added each day to the phosphate concentration in the aquarium. That dilution step is critical, taking a scary number like 0.05 ppm down to an almost meaningless 0.0005 ppm daily addition. Since that 0.0005 ppm is 40-600 times lower than the amount added each day in foods (Table 4), it does not seem worthy of the angst many aquarists put on such measurements. That said, tap water could have as much as 5 ppm phosphate, and that value could then become a dominating source of phosphate and would be quite problematic. Purifying tap water is important for this and many other rea
 
Rather than starting a new thread, I have a simple question about phosguard. Is simply putting it in a filter bag or media bag and dropping it in the sump next to a return pump enough or does it require more flow and water to actually drip/run through the media? My phosphates seem to be at 0.45 after but I keep mostly zoa, euphyllia and some lps that don't seem to mind the higher values but would like to get it down to under 0.2 to give myself some room ...

I don't need to bring it down quickly, would be happy to go down to the target value in a month.
 
Rather than starting a new thread, I have a simple question about phosguard. Is simply putting it in a filter bag or media bag and dropping it in the sump next to a return pump enough or does it require more flow and water to actually drip/run through the media? My phosphates seem to be at 0.45 after but I keep mostly zoa, euphyllia and some lps that don't seem to mind the higher values but would like to get it down to under 0.2 to give myself some room ...

I don't need to bring it down quickly, would be happy to go down to the target value in a month.

For a big particle media like Phosguard, a media bag can work, but unless water is pushed through it somehow, it may take a long time for the deep inside particles to get used. Mixing it up every few days may reduce that concern.
 
For a big particle media like Phosguard, a media bag can work, but unless water is pushed through it somehow, it may take a long time for the deep inside particles to get used. Mixing it up every few days may reduce that concern.
Thanks. I'll try mixing it up every once in a while.
 

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