LPS and LED...

ca2or · Mar 29, 2012

I have had the toughest time with my LPS ever since moving to LED and am curious what others experiences have been

Should I put in direct light or shade to start? Speaking about hammers, torches, frog spawn....

11f150 · Mar 29, 2012

Im guessing people are going to need more info on your setup. Tank size, what LED system you have etc

ca2or · Mar 29, 2012

11f150 said:
Im guessing people are going to need more info on your setup. Tank size, what LED system you have etc

56 gallon tank so its like 24 inches tall and I am currently running 180x 1 watt with optics

ritter6788 · Mar 29, 2012

I have 2x 120, 1w led units on my 75. I have no problems with frogspawn but my trachyphyllias bleach if I don't shade them a bit. I've seen the same fixture completely fry acans when not acclimated to the lights.

dmatt88 · Mar 29, 2012

In my large tank I switched recently to Apollos n a profilux controller. I've noticed lps n sps bleaching but zoas doing fine. I've hidden some from direct light n color is coming back. But a switch to leds is a shock no doubt.

........milli's hate me.

ca2or · Mar 29, 2012

dmatt88 said:
In my large tank I switched recently to Apollos n a profilux controller. I've noticed lps n sps bleaching but zoas doing fine. I've hidden some from direct light n color is coming back. But a switch to leds is a shock no doubt.

........milli's hate me.

Thank you

Darren · Mar 30, 2012

I have a 34G Solana with an AI SOL Blue. My chalices and acans are on the bottom doing great. I have a frogspawn up top but not directly under a light and it is doing fine as well.

reeferman · Mar 30, 2012

i have to keep all my lps in caves or shaded areas and slowly bring them out but most prefer the shade from the leds

Tab28 · Mar 30, 2012

I am having issues and judging my switch to LED as well. LPS and clams have been suffering. SPS and zoas look amazing. I am using 150 watt fixture at 3 watts per bulbs. My issues are not from bleaching. Not sure if it could be as simple as all lower level tank corals of if it is something else. But I am not happy. From all I have read it is not the total wattage you have to look at it is the wattage per bulb. Many articles I have read say that 24" depth tank should use 3 watt per bulb. It will need the strength to pentrate the water, others have said differently.

Many people love their LEDs and would never switch back to whatever they had. I am not one of those lucky people though. LEDs are too expensive for me to keep playing with different fixtures with trail and error.

revhtree · Mar 30, 2012

You definitely have to acclimate the corals and even then LPS need to be in places that are not direct lighting when it comes to LED IME.

huuta · Mar 30, 2012

i went from MH to the radion and slowly went from 45% intensity to 80% over 2 months with only 1 problem.i bought a red chalice and put it on the bottom and the colors went from red to orange.all my lps,sps,z and p are doing great.u will need to acclimate it to LED.Led are deceptively bright

spero · Apr 1, 2012

I had a tough time with LPS and LED's as well. Softies did very well. Switched to T5's and all my LPS are thriving.

Some have great success with LED's though.

gmoney243 · Apr 1, 2012

Id say u have way to much light. Get a par meter and see what the par is reading. How many watts you have doesn't tell us how much light the corals are getting. Different fixtures, leds, and drivers don't all have same par. I had some chalices bleach when I made the switch. I'm running 150 par on sand and 350 on to of rocks much more and you'll fry your corals. Seen few people do this thinking they can match par numbers with MH or T5. Led need to run much less par.