Lux meter, help me figure this out?

DracoKat

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I am a total idiot when it comes to lighting. No matter how much reading I do, I can't understand it, lol. I need someone to help me get the proper settings.

I have an AI Prime HD over my 9 gal cube.
Testing at highest point (175000k according to my AI Prime settings), which is averaging 235x100 with the lux meter. right at the surface of the water

Is this too strong for SPS and nems?

my AI prime setting sunrises to 16000k, goes to 175000k and down to 16000k prior to sunset.
If you want a screenie of my settings, let me know.
 
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Is your lux maxing out at 17,500 or 175,000? I would say 17,500 is way to dim and 175,000 is probably going to be too bright. My tank sits around 90,000 lux at 300+ PAR. Normally in reef lighting we measure in terms of PAR (photosynthetic active radiation) or PUR (photosynthetic usable radiation). To make sure you have proper PAR/PUR I would do some research on other peoples lighting intensities for tanks similar to yours or start your blue channels at 100% and white channels at 50% and reduce each in equal parts until you achieve around 100,000 lux.
 
175000k I meant, according to my AI Prime settings (not the lux meter). I hope that's more clear! (fixing it in original post)

Lux meter says 235x100 on average. if I do the math, that's 235 in par? I am confused there.
 
Is your lux maxing out at 17,500 or 175,000? I would say 17,500 is way to dim and 175,000 is probably going to be too bright. My tank sits around 90,000 lux at 300+ PAR. Normally in reef lighting we measure in terms of PAR (photosynthetic active radiation) or PUR (photosynthetic usable radiation). To make sure you have proper PAR/PUR I would do some research on other peoples lighting intensities for tanks similar to yours or start your blue channels at 100% and white channels at 50% and reduce each in equal parts until you achieve around 100,000 lux.
Are you using a seney?
100,000 lux is close to full tropical daylight sun.
 
so 235,000 lux would be too much?

I have Tondaj LX-1010B digital meter. it's on the 50000 setting when I tested. The screen reads 235 x100 Lux
 
I am a total idiot when it comes to lighting. No matter how much reading I do, I can't understand it, lol. I need someone to help me get the proper settings.

I have an AI Prime HD over my 9 gal cube.
Testing at highest point (175000k according to my AI Prime settings), which is averaging 235x100 with the lux meter. right at the surface of the water

Is this too strong for SPS and nems?

my AI prime setting sunrises to 16000k, goes to 175000k and down to 16000k prior to sunset.
If you want a screenie of my settings, let me know.
17,500 on a handheld white ball should be /60 should be around 300 par.

That means with a focused beam source you prob have 100+ par on the sand.
Personally I thing that's a pretty good range.

To confuse the matter more , n/p and alk also need to be considered for good growth and color when looking for the "sweet spot".

A high light sps according to Mr Riddle likes 350 par, at about 10 hours (DLI. ).

So now they you have a number to work with (par/lux) you can slowly make adjustments in increments of approx 3000 lux(50 par) or 6000 lux to find the sweet spot that best suits your tank. Or make minor color adjustments.
Not a specific high med low light coral. But the tank in its entirety. That's the trick there.
With a par or lux meter you still have to try's your eye.
 
Are you using a seney?
100,000 lux is close to full tropical daylight sun.
Yes I used a seneye to get these numbers, my lux was 90,000 directly above the water line with 4x54WT5s and 2x23W LED strips (I'm assuming his lux meter is not waterproof).
 
I'm so confused *Cries in corner*

Ok, so basically I'll get the "base suggested" par/lux and adjust to what my corals like accordingly.

What's the suggested lux at the surface? to @Cronicreefer 's 90,000 lux, it's much higher than mine at 23,500, so I am still too low?

I don't think the meter is waterproof. It looks pretty tight, but not sure if I want to risk it.
 
175000k I meant, according to my AI Prime settings (not the lux meter). I hope that's more clear! (fixing it in original post)

Lux meter says 235x100 on average. if I do the math, that's 235 in par? I am confused there.
So 17,000 kelvin.
Nice , I like my tanks warmer too.

With a warmer color temp it's likely to have a lower conversion number, more blue , a higher number.

So I do the math at 60 65 and 70 and way blue at 75

Yes I used a seneye to get these numbers, my lux was 90,000 directly above the water line with 4x54WT5s and 2x23W LED strips (I'm assuming his lux meter is not waterproof).
her.

The lux meter on the seney is not in incident meter. It's a reflective meter and not an incednt meter will give you false readings in this application.
 
I'm so confused *Cries in corner*

Ok, so basically I'll get the "base suggested" par/lux and adjust to what my corals like accordingly.

What's the suggested lux at the surface? to @Cronicreefer 's 90,000 lux, it's much higher than mine at 23,500, so I am still too low?

I don't think the meter is waterproof. It looks pretty tight, but not sure if I want to risk it.
Lol. I cry now too. Folks don't think lux works cuz they don't understand the difference in the meter.


So, if you were to pick a par number at the top for that tank, what would it be?
 
Once you pic an intensity at the top and set it on the light , point the light at the meter the same distance from sand bed. Then you'll have an idea of the par at the bottom. Kinda.
 
That's why I am struggling, I want to understand it! If I could shell out for a PAR reader, I'd probably be OK!
Maybe another cup of coffee will help too.

I am planning on SPS.. and I got some yellow ones coming next week or so. I think yellows require higher lighting, right? so I feel like the top rock area which is about 5.5"under water surface should be 300-450 Par?
 
So 17,000 kelvin.
Nice , I like my tanks warmer too.

With a warmer color temp it's likely to have a lower conversion number, more blue , a higher number.

So I do the math at 60 65 and 70 and way blue at 75


her.

The lux meter on the seney is not in icedent meter. It's a reflective meter and not an incednt meter will give you false readings in this application.
Well if I remember correctly mine measured at around 45,000 lumens and not lux and I did a conversion. Maybe they changed the software to display lux values now? Either way I could see it being slightly too high.
 
Once you pic an intensity at the top and set it on the light , point the light at the meter the same distance from sand bed. Then you'll have an idea of the par at the bottom. Kinda.

Won't the water filter out some of the light too?
 
That's why I am struggling, I want to understand it! If I could shell out for a PAR reader, I'd probably be OK!
Maybe another cup of coffee will help too.

I am planning on SPS.. and I got some yellow ones coming next week or so. I think yellows require higher lighting, right? so I feel like the top rock area which is about 5.5"under water surface should be 300-450 Par?
A lot of LFS will let you borrow one in my area, maybe you will have luck in yours. Seneye reef is $170 and is more than accurate enough for our use at measure PAR values.
 
Well if I remember correctly mine measured at around 45,000 lumens and not lux and I did a conversion. Maybe they changed the software to display lux values now? Either way I could see it being slightly too high.
You can't do the conversion with reflectance meter. It's angle specific. It gives false readings.

It's a different type of meter.
 
That's why I am struggling, I want to understand it! If I could shell out for a PAR reader, I'd probably be OK!
Maybe another cup of coffee will help too.

I am planning on SPS.. and I got some yellow ones coming next week or so. I think yellows require higher lighting, right? so I feel like the top rock area which is about 5.5"under water surface should be 300-450 Par?
IMO , start at about 250-300 par at the top , let the corals acclimate and then slowly increase the lighting.
You'll probably wind up with around 400 par. At the top.

By measuring at the top in the peak spot only you are averaging , and increasing and decreasing for the whole tank.
 

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