Lympho or something else

[BigJohnny]

Hey reefers,

Snagged this fathead sunburst anthias on divers den as fast as I could (been waiting on one for a while) and noticed afterward that it's got a spot on its dorsal fin. I'm no expert but it looks like lympho to me. I will be qting the fish anyway but just wanted to get some opinions. Also, on its tail and anal fin it looks like there may be some fraying or maybe it's just normal fin structure? If not then maybe it's not lympho on the dorsal but a bacterial infection throughout.

Thanks!

 

[Greenstreet.1]

A lot of fish these days posted on DD OR LA Look sick in the picks they had a pintail that was posted on DD yesterday that looked like it had an infection.

 

[BigJohnny]

BTW my current plan is get eating for about a week then two doses of prazi, then finish with copper, unless I see symptoms of ich or velvet in which case I'll start with copper. I have the Hanna copper checker and copper power so I'm less concerned about running it in copper than I would have been in the past. Thoughts?

Btw, it's coming in with a melanurus wrasse.

I also have kanaplex, metroplex, focus, and furan-2.

Thanks!

 

[BigJohnny]

A lot of fish these days posted on DD OR LA Look sick in the picks they had a pintail that was posted on DD yesterday that looked like it had an infection.

Yes I've seen that before, I expect all fish I order online to atleast have a parasite so not really surprised. DD doesn't have an extensive QT or anything, imo the advantage is the fish has been eating well in captivity for longer.

What do you think about this fish though?

 

[Big G]

BTW my current plan is get eating for about a week then two doses of prazi, then finish with copper, unless I see symptoms of ich or velvet in which case I'll start with copper. I have the Hanna copper checker and copper power so I'm less concerned about running it in copper than I would have been in the past. Thoughts?

Btw, it's coming in with a melanurus wrasse.

I also have kanaplex, metroplex, focus, and furan-2.

Thanks!

Because velvet is rampant in the industry these days, and so many shippers and suppliers have been treating fish with "sub-therapeutic" levels of copper to keep ich/velvet/brook, etc. down and keep the fish "looking" decent to sell, there is a danger that disease will come roaring back as the "sub-therapeutic" levels wear off. Often the disease comes on suddenly without the usual symptoms. Lost a whole tank of fish in QT because of this. So, I've changed my prophylactic treatment plan to dose with copper first. Very slowly ramping up 8-10 days; using a Hanna Checker, and have not experienced any losses since.

 

[Greenstreet.1]

Yes I've seen that before, I expect all fish I order online to atleast have a parasite so not really surprised. DD doesn't have an extensive QT or anything, imo the advantage is the fish has been eating well in captivity for longer.

What do you think about this fish though?

To me it looks like some type of fin rot but I’m not an expert.

 

[Greenstreet.1]

I wondering what type of changes where made when petco to over

 

[BigJohnny]

Because velvet is rampant in the industry these days, and so many shippers and suppliers have been treating fish with "sub-therapeutic" levels of copper to keep ich/velvet/brook, etc. down and keep the fish "looking" decent to sell, there is a danger that disease will come roaring back as the "sub-therapeutic" levels wear off. Often the disease comes on suddenly without the usual symptoms. Lost a whole tank of fish in QT because of this. So, I've changed my prophylactic treatment plan to dose with copper first. Very slowly ramping up 8-10 days; using a Hanna Checker, and have not experienced any losses since.

OK so your suggesting I start with copper than do prazi? Any opinions on the pics of the anthias though? The copper prazi is my standard but im trying to figure out in advance if that's lympho or bacterial infection so I know if I have to treat that as well.

If I had to guess I'd say bacterial infection after looking at the fins more closely. The dorsal really looks like lympho though so could be both.

 

[BigJohnny]

To me it looks like some type of fin rot but I’m not an expert.

Yea on the tail and anal fins I think I agree, the dorsal fin I dunno

 

[BigJohnny]

I wondering what type of changes where made when petco to over

I don't think any were made to divers den, still same staff etc.

 

[Big G]

OK so your suggesting I start with copper than do prazi? Any opinions on the pics of the anthias though? The copper prazi is my standard but im trying to figure out in advance if that's lympho or bacterial infection so I know if I have to treat that as well.

If I had to guess I'd say bacterial infection after looking at the fins more closely. The dorsal really looks like lympho though so could be both.

First, that is a beautiful fish. NICE. If it were my fish, I'd give it a 90 minute bath in Ruby Reef Rally. I really like the antiseptic and antibiotic qualities of RRR for early treatment or prophylactic treatment of susceptible fish for bacterial looking spots. After that give it a day or two and then I'd start very slowly ramping up the copper.

 

[BigJohnny]

First, that is a beautiful fish. NICE. If it were my fish, I'd give it a 90 minute bath in Ruby Reef Rally. I really like the antiseptic and antibiotic qualities of RRR for early treatment or prophylactic treatment of susceptible fish for bacterial looking spots. After that give it a day or two and then I'd start very slowly ramping up the copper.

Thanks yes it's a beaut for sure, been wanting one for a long time. I have ruby reef rally but I've never used it or done any bath for that matter. I know the general idea but can you explain to me how you do them?

I think I will first see the fish in person before doing any treatment but that sounds like a good plan should it be the same. I normally like to get the fish eating for a week first though.

 

[Big G]

Thanks yes it's a beaut for sure, been wanting one for a long time. I have ruby reef rally but I've never used it or done any bath for that matter. I know the general idea but can you explain to me how you do them?

I think I will first see the fish in person before doing any treatment but that sounds like a good plan should it be the same. I normally like to get the fish eating for a week first though.

Here's Humblefish's treatment plan that I use for using acriflavine based products.

Acriflavine: This is an antiseptic that is very useful for rendering “first aid” if a fish has a bacterial infection or to treat an open wound. It can also be used as part of a “three step program” for treating Marine Velvet Disease: 5 minute freshwater dip, 75-90 minute acriflavine bath, and then prolonged exposure to copper or Chloroquine phosphate in a Quarantine Tank (QT).

There is also some anecdotal evidence that a 75-90 minute acriflavine bath, followed by transfer into a sterile Quarantine Tank can clear Brooklynella aka clownfish disease. However, until more research is done it is recommended to follow up the acriflavine bath by treating with metronidazole in the Quarantine Tank.

How To Treat – At present time there are two products on the market which contain acriflavine (dosage information below). Use either in a 75-90 minute bath, temperature controlling the water and providing plenty of aeration by using an air pump & air-stone. Ensure salinity, pH and temperature of bath & QT water match perfectly.

Acriflavine-MS: Add 1 teaspoon per 5 gallons of water.

Ruby Reef Rally: Add 1 ounce per 10 gallons of water. This breaks down to roughly 2/3 teaspoon of Rally per gallon if using less than 10 gallons.

Pros – Effective “pre-treatment” before fish is placed in QT with copper, antibiotics, etc.; milder/safer alternative to using formalin.

Cons/Side Effects – Turns the water an orange-brownish color, so probably not desirable for Quarantine or Display Tank use. Full range of positive effects and possible side effects are not completely understood at this time.