Lyretail Anthias Scrape + White Marks?

[Ugin]

Kanaplex is not the answer. It is post injury and healing , not bacterial infected hence the raw flesh appearance. A bath in Formalin would be a better treatment for 45 mins. Can be repeated daily.
Another option is a 90 minute bath in Ruby rally Pro. Ruby Reef is made from acriflavine, aminoacridine and formalin making it safe for fish and most coral
Is this fish eating ?
Have you increased aeration ?
What is breathing rate (rapid or normal ?)

1) The fish last ate this morning. The last 2 times I've fed today it has not
2) I have multiple powerheads pointed at the surface
3) Elevated for sure

I only have Ruby Rally on hand (pictured below). How are you suggesting I use it? Direct display additive, or move the anthias to a bucket with an airstone/heater?

 

[vetteguy53081]

1) The fish last ate this morning. The last 2 times I've fed today it has not
2) I have multiple powerheads pointed at the surface
3) Elevated for sure

I only have Ruby Rally on hand (pictured below). How are you suggesting I use it? Direct display additive, or move the anthias to a bucket with an airstone/heater?

Rally - Start with 90 minute bath then treat at 80% of recommended. Rally takes 2 days or so to actively work on fish. Flow Pumps wont do it. Add an airstone pump combination to increase oxygen

What is breathing rate (rapid or normal ?)

 

[Ugin]

Rally - Start with 90 minute bath then treat at 80% of recommended. Rally takes 2 days or so to actively work on fish. Flow Pumps wont do it. Add an airstone pump combination to increase oxygen

What is breathing rate (rapid or normal ?)

Breathing is rapid.

So regarding Rally:
1) 90 min bath in separate container @ 100% strength
2) Dose display tank with 80% recommended value

Is this your suggestion?

 

[vetteguy53081]

Breathing is rapid.

So regarding Rally:
1) 90 min bath in separate container @ 100% strength
2) Dose display tank with 80% recommended value

Is this your suggestion?

You can give bath every 24-48 hours or as under aeration. To use RALLY, remove carbon filtration and other absorbent media, and turn off protein skimmers and UV sterilizers. Use 1 ounce of RALLY per 5 gallons of water Or one teaspoon of Rally per gallon of bath water
Assure salinity, pH and temperature of both the bath water & tank water match.

 

[Ugin]

You can give bath every 24-48 hours or as under aeration. To use RALLY, remove carbon filtration and other absorbent media, and turn off protein skimmers and UV sterilizers. Use 1 ounce of RALLY per 5 gallons of water Or one teaspoon of Rally per gallon of bath water
Assure salinity, pH and temperature of both the bath water & tank water match.

Understood. To confirm though, are you saying just to give baths and not dose to the display after the first bath?

 

[vetteguy53081]

Understood. To confirm though, are you saying just to give baths and not dose to the display after the first bath?

no Start with bath and then dose.

 

[Ugin]

Bath started. Salinity, ph, temp matched. For a 5 gallon bucket, added 1oz. Air pump setup.

Acclimation box ready to go when i put him back in the DT.

 

[Ugin]

The anthias did not make it. I checked 5 min before the ruby bath was done and he was gone.

The rest of my fish appear fine. Should i take any preventive measures for the fish in my display? (1 anthias, 1 Orange back fairy wrasse, 1 midas blenny)

 

[Jay Hemdal Verified Community Expert]

I've had these 2 Lyretail anthias for about 5 days now as part of a batch of fish that were prophylactically treated. The whole batch of fish have been eating 3-5 times per day and have appeared generally very healthy.

Two days ago I noticed the white marking and assumed it was a rock scrape. So far it appears to have worsened and now there is that central "cut"? plus white blotches around the body. On top of that, the fish is hiding now and breathing heavier.

I'm not sure what to do. Is this a bacterial infection caused by cuts on the rock?

That is almost assuredly Uronema. It is very common in newly acquired anthias, yellow coris and green chromis.
This is the internal form of the disease. Sorry, but it is essentially untreatable. Chloroquine can reduce its numbers in a tank, but not internally like this. One good thing is that Uronema is rarely contagious to other fish unless they are a high risk species.
I have an article posted here if you want to read up on this….I’m on my phone and can’t link to it, but search for Uronema

Jay

 

[Ugin]

That is almost assuredly Uronema. It is very common in newly acquired anthias, yellow coris and green chromis.
This is the internal form of the disease. Sorry, but it is essentially untreatable. Chloroquine can reduce its numbers in a tank, but not internally like this. One good thing is that Uronema is rarely contagious to other fish unless they are a high risk species.
I have an article posted here if you want to read up on this….I’m on my phone and can’t link to it, but search for Uronema

Jay

I appreciate the information. When you say high risk species, are all types of anthias in that category?

 

[Jay Hemdal Verified Community Expert]

I appreciate the information. When you say high risk species, are all types of anthias in that category?

Chromis, wrasses, anthias and sometimes centropyge angels and butterflyfish. In most every case, they were recent imports, although I have seen it crop up during hyposalinity treatments as it thrives in brackish water.

Jay

 

[Ugin]

Chromis, wrasses, anthias and sometimes centropyge angels and butterflyfish. In most every case, they were recent imports, although I have seen it crop up during hyposalinity treatments as it thrives in brackish water.

Jay

I currently have 1 remaining lyretail anthias and a orange-back fairy wrasse in the tank that fit that description (as well as a gold midas blenny). How likely is it to be contagious? I will keep a very close eye on the fish in the coming weeks.

 

[Miami Reef]

I currently have 1 remaining lyretail anthias and a orange-back fairy wrasse in the tank that fit that description (as well as a gold midas blenny). How likely is it to be contagious? I will keep a very close eye on the fish in the coming weeks.

In my personal experience anthias exposed will also develop the sores. The wrasse is more resistant to uronema IME.

Chromis and anthias get it worse, but in my experience, nothing dies faster than an anthias with uronema.

If it was me I’d definitely treat the other anthias before it develops the sores.

Basically your tank has uronema, so it’s unlikely anthias will survive long term in it, but I believe (my opinion) that dosing a lot of copepods and maybe even start h202 dosing can eliminate uronema, but this is speculation based on some people doing aquabiomics testing which shows parasites undetectable after h202. But it’s far from certainty yet.

@AquaBiomics saw that when copepods were mixed in a bottle with uronema, the pods ate them all.

Some people had uronema show up in the DNA tank testing by Aquabiomics, did h202 dosing, then tested negative for uronema.

 

[vetteguy53081]

The anthias did not make it. I checked 5 min before the ruby bath was done and he was gone.

The rest of my fish appear fine. Should i take any preventive measures for the fish in my display? (1 anthias, 1 Orange back fairy wrasse, 1 midas blenny)

Uronema can be present in many reef tanks, with no acute disease symptoms seen in the fish. However, Uronema often shows up on newly acquired Chromis, Wrasse, and Anthias. In some cases, a bad infections can spread from them to other fish so preventative measure would not be bad

 

[Ugin]

In my personal experience anthias exposed will also develop the sores. The wrasse is more resistant to uronema IME.

Chromis and anthias get it worse, but in my experience, nothing dies faster than an anthias with uronema.

If it was me I’d definitely treat the other anthias before it develops the sores.

Basically your tank has uronema, so it’s unlikely anthias will survive long term in it, but I believe (my opinion) that dosing a lot of copepods and maybe even start h202 dosing can eliminate uronema, but this is speculation based on some people doing aquabiomics testing which shows parasites undetectable after h202. But it’s far from certainty yet.

@AquaBiomics saw that when copepods were mixed in a bottle with uronema, the pods ate them all.

Some people had uronema show up in the DNA tank testing by Aquabiomics, did h202 dosing, then tested negative for uronema.

Thank you for the advice. I'll look into dosing pods to the tank. Even if it doesn't help with the uronema, it can still provide other benefits.

Uronema can be present in many reef tanks, with no acute disease symptoms seen in the fish. However, Uronema often shows up on newly acquired Chromis, Wrasse, and Anthias. In some cases, a bad infections can spread from them to other fish so preventative measure would not be bad

What preventative measures would you suggest? I will observe the fish very closely in the coming weeks.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Thank you for the advice. I'll look into dosing pods to the tank. Even if it doesn't help with the uronema, it can still provide other benefits.



What preventative measures would you suggest? I will observe the fish very closely in the coming weeks.

Dip
Observation
Good water quality
Good diet