Lyretail Anthias with white stringy poop

mehaffydr

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I purchased this Male Anthias about a week ago. He is in QT Isolation but No meds. He has been eating good mostly LRS reef frenzy and Mysis. Today I noticed White stringy poop and just wanted some ideas on this. Should I be concerned and is there anything I need to do?
IMG_4793.JPG
 
I purchased this Male Anthias about a week ago. He is in QT Isolation but No meds. He has been eating good mostly LRS reef frenzy and Mysis. Today I noticed White stringy poop and just wanted some ideas on this. Should I be concerned and is there anything I need to do?
IMG_4793.JPG
Often when fed brine shrimp, mysis shrimp or both… the poop will mimic internal parasites
Signs will also be thinning or sunken belly, loss of appetite or lack of interest in feeding
If internal, treatment in quarantine will be seachem metroplex added to foods assuming fish is eating
 
Often when fed brine shrimp, mysis shrimp or both… the poop will mimic internal parasites
Signs will also be thinning or sunken belly, loss of appetite or lack of interest in feeding
If internal, treatment in quarantine will be seachem metroplex added to foods assuming fish is eating
Thank You, He is eating good. I'm not really seeing any signs of thinning or sunken belly. I do have metroplex do you think I should start now as a precaution.
 
Thank You, He is eating good. I'm not really seeing any signs of thinning or sunken belly. I do have metroplex do you think I should start now as a precaution.
For now- observe
What foods are you feeding?
 
So far only LRS reef Frenzy and a little added Mysis
Ok good, stop mysis for a few days and see if poop changes color- then you’ll know
Consider adding:
Hikari marine cuisine
Small plankton
Formula 1
Rods original formula
Chopped krill
 
I purchased this Male Anthias about a week ago. He is in QT Isolation but No meds. He has been eating good mostly LRS reef frenzy and Mysis. Today I noticed White stringy poop and just wanted some ideas on this. Should I be concerned and is there anything I need to do?
IMG_4793.JPG

As a general rule, you should not leave a fish in a QT without starting a treatment plan.

The stringy feces can have a variety of causes:

Excess mucus in fish feces: this will present as white or light colored, stringy fecal material that often hangs from the fish’s anus for a longer than normal period. There are a number of different causes for this, some benign, others very serious. Without access to a microscope, there is little that can be done to diagnose this issue effectively.

Idiopathic mucus feces: this fancy term is just to describe white mucoid bulky feces of no serious consequence, but of an unknown cause. Some suspicion is that this can be caused by changes in diet or diets high in fats.

Starvation: Fish that have no food moving through their bowels may excrete white mucoid feces with little bulk to them. The primary diagnostic for this issue is evident in that the fish won’t been seen to be eating. Resolving the anorexia is of course the prime focus to resolve this issue.

Bacterial infection: internal bacterial infections can cause stringy feces as well. While some of these may resolve on their own, medicated foods containing a broad spectrum, gram negative oral antibiotic may be required.

Metazoan infections: multicellular worms are often blamed for mucoid feces, but in reality, they are almost never the root cause for this, and really, can only be diagnosed through looking for their ova in fecal samples. Fish can harbor tapeworms and nematodes without producing mucoid feces.

Protozoan infection: Hexamita and related diplomonad flagellate protozoans very frequently cause white stringy feces, especially in newly acquired clownfish. Metronidazole is the most frequent treatment for this issue. It can be dosed orally at 25 mg per kg of fish body weight, or 5 g in a kg of food. However, it is a very bitter medication, and some fish will refuse to feed on food containing it. It can be dosed in the water at 25 mg/l, but this is more effective in treating marine fishes, as freshwater fish do not “drink” aquarium water.

Coccidia: These microscopic, spore-forming, single-celled parasites are common diseases in dogs and cats. In fish, they cause epithelial necrosis of the gut, enteritis and the copious production of mucus (Noga 2010). These cannot be diagnosed without microscopic examination, and there is no well researched cure for this in fishes, although Toltrazuril has been tested.

Constipation: This malady is often given as a cause for stringy feces, but it is not as common as one would think. When it is seen, the feces are usually dark, not light in color. Often touted as a “cure for constipation”, many aquarists add Epsom salts (magnesium sulfate) to the aquarium’s water – do not do this in marine aquariums, its use is primarily as a tonic/dip for freshwater fish. Seawater formulas already contain between 7 and 19 grams of magnesium sulfate per gallon (depending on the recipe). NSW magnesium level is around 1200 ppm and sulfur is around 840 ppm. Some benefit might be seen using it as a dip in additional concentrations, but adding a small amount to a marine aquarium itself has no benefit. Epsom salts do have some possible benefit when mixed into the food as a 3% by weight adjunct. Another commonly heard remedy for constipation is; “feed fresh peas”. This is an effective cure for fancy goldfish and Malawi cichlids that develop constipation and bloating. Again, overextrapolation has marine aquarists trying to feed peas to carnivorous fish, etc. The best method to enhance gut motility in fish is to feed frozen adult brine shrimp – not as a permanent diet, just long enough to get the constipation resolved.
 
Ok good, stop mysis for a few days and see if poop changes color- then you’ll know
Consider adding:
Hikari marine cuisine
Small plankton
Formula 1
Rods original formula
Chopped krill
Thank You.
As a general rule, you should not leave a fish in a QT without starting a treatment plan.

The stringy feces can have a variety of causes:

Excess mucus in fish feces: this will present as white or light colored, stringy fecal material that often hangs from the fish’s anus for a longer than normal period. There are a number of different causes for this, some benign, others very serious. Without access to a microscope, there is little that can be done to diagnose this issue effectively.

Idiopathic mucus feces: this fancy term is just to describe white mucoid bulky feces of no serious consequence, but of an unknown cause. Some suspicion is that this can be caused by changes in diet or diets high in fats.

Starvation: Fish that have no food moving through their bowels may excrete white mucoid feces with little bulk to them. The primary diagnostic for this issue is evident in that the fish won’t been seen to be eating. Resolving the anorexia is of course the prime focus to resolve this issue.

Bacterial infection: internal bacterial infections can cause stringy feces as well. While some of these may resolve on their own, medicated foods containing a broad spectrum, gram negative oral antibiotic may be required.

Metazoan infections: multicellular worms are often blamed for mucoid feces, but in reality, they are almost never the root cause for this, and really, can only be diagnosed through looking for their ova in fecal samples. Fish can harbor tapeworms and nematodes without producing mucoid feces.

Protozoan infection: Hexamita and related diplomonad flagellate protozoans very frequently cause white stringy feces, especially in newly acquired clownfish. Metronidazole is the most frequent treatment for this issue. It can be dosed orally at 25 mg per kg of fish body weight, or 5 g in a kg of food. However, it is a very bitter medication, and some fish will refuse to feed on food containing it. It can be dosed in the water at 25 mg/l, but this is more effective in treating marine fishes, as freshwater fish do not “drink” aquarium water.

Coccidia: These microscopic, spore-forming, single-celled parasites are common diseases in dogs and cats. In fish, they cause epithelial necrosis of the gut, enteritis and the copious production of mucus (Noga 2010). These cannot be diagnosed without microscopic examination, and there is no well researched cure for this in fishes, although Toltrazuril has been tested.

Constipation: This malady is often given as a cause for stringy feces, but it is not as common as one would think. When it is seen, the feces are usually dark, not light in color. Often touted as a “cure for constipation”, many aquarists add Epsom salts (magnesium sulfate) to the aquarium’s water – do not do this in marine aquariums, its use is primarily as a tonic/dip for freshwater fish. Seawater formulas already contain between 7 and 19 grams of magnesium sulfate per gallon (depending on the recipe). NSW magnesium level is around 1200 ppm and sulfur is around 840 ppm. Some benefit might be seen using it as a dip in additional concentrations, but adding a small amount to a marine aquarium itself has no benefit. Epsom salts do have some possible benefit when mixed into the food as a 3% by weight adjunct. Another commonly heard remedy for constipation is; “feed fresh peas”. This is an effective cure for fancy goldfish and Malawi cichlids that develop constipation and bloating. Again, overextrapolation has marine aquarists trying to feed peas to carnivorous fish, etc. The best method to enhance gut motility in fish is to feed frozen adult brine shrimp – not as a permanent diet, just long enough to get the constipation resolved.
jay thank you this info and detail.
question about starting treatment on these 2 fish
I have the Lyretail Anthias and A Choats Wrasse that I purchased from the same tank in the store.
my research found the the Wrasse can be difficult to get started eating so that has been my priority. Both fish are eating well.
can I treat both of these fish with Coppersafe ? Or would Hypo be a better plan.
I really like Hypo which with your advice I did to my display with complete success.
Thanks
 
Thank You.

jay thank you this info and detail.
question about starting treatment on these 2 fish
I have the Lyretail Anthias and A Choats Wrasse that I purchased from the same tank in the store.
my research found the the Wrasse can be difficult to get started eating so that has been my priority. Both fish are eating well.
can I treat both of these fish with Coppersafe ? Or would Hypo be a better plan.
I really like Hypo which with your advice I did to my display with complete success.
Thanks
Choati are delicate no matter how you treat them, I’ve stopped messing with them after being burned a few times and seeing so many others have trouble with them… I’ve never run them under coppersafe or hypo, so I shouldn’t advise you on that.

Jay
 

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