Macroalgae Dying?

[Thefishguy]

So as the title says, my macroalgae is just dying off. I bought a nice size ball of I believe cheato from my LFS, along with 2 other types of macros, one was a red one that looked similar to the cheato and the other was a bright green that looked more like a corkscrew? I have had it in the tank for about a week and within 2 days the red one just totally deteriorated, the cheato is hanging on for its life but that to is deteriorating, its pretty much turning gray almost looking like hair algae in a freshwater planted tank might look? And the bright green corkscrew one seems like it wants to turn into a slime.

I feel it might be my light? I am using the Aquatic Life Reno 9" full spectrum LED, I was talking to the aquatic life people at Reefapoolza, I know of course they will say its amazing, but I read some reviews and it seemed like it would work and Marine Depot had a video about it so I decided for the price it was worth a shot. I have the Trigger emerald 39 sump so using that refugium with the light clamped right above it, running it when main lights are off for 11-12 hours a night. Think its the light or something else?

 

[thaitopher]

So as the title says, my macroalgae is just dying off. I bought a nice size ball of I believe cheato from my LFS, along with 2 other types of macros, one was a red one that looked similar to the cheato and the other was a bright green that looked more like a corkscrew? I have had it in the tank for about a week and within 2 days the red one just totally deteriorated, the cheato is hanging on for its life but that to is deteriorating, its pretty much turning gray almost looking like hair algae in a freshwater planted tank might look? And the bright green corkscrew one seems like it wants to turn into a slime.

I feel it might be my light? I am using the Aquatic Life Reno 9" full spectrum LED, I was talking to the aquatic life people at Reefapoolza, I know of course they will say its amazing, but I read some reviews and it seemed like it would work and Marine Depot had a video about it so I decided for the price it was worth a shot. I have the Trigger emerald 39 sump so using that refugium with the light clamped right above it, running it when main lights are off for 11-12 hours a night. Think its the light or something else?

My red macrogae quickly disappeared after I got it. Quickly really my fire shrimp ate all of it. Do you have anything that might be eating it?

 

[JaaxReef]

How many fish do you have? What are your nutrient levels?

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

Also amount of light and flow is something to look at.

 

[Thefishguy]

I have nothing in the sump with the algae so nothing could be eating it. I had it in my old tank that has had 6 fish in a 55g for over 5 years plus hermits running around. Not sure how to check my nutrient levels? Which nutrients should I be testing for? I was also told to dose iodine because the algae uses that so I did that and it made no difference. The light is directly over top of the fuge and its on for 11-12 hours a night, flow is low as it just flows from the skimmer section into the fuge it's the trigger emerald 39 sump if you know what that flow might cause.

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

Plans do need good flow as well. Not as much as mine corals but it's one reason why turfscrubbers work well and chato reactors too. Light can IME be too strong for dragons tongue.

You'll need to test for nitrates and phosphates for the plants just like coral.

 

[JaaxReef]

Agreed.

From my experience, the algae will likely die very quickly if you have 0 nitrate and phosphate. Even if your light, flow, and other parameters are in check.

 

[Thefishguy]

I tested my levels in the tank they are in now, the nitrate level is between 5 and 10 it is hard to tell the color it matches with exactly. The phosphates are 0 or .25. I posted pics with results 2 are of the nitrate as one pic looks darker than the other.

I have not tested the first tank they were in yet, but I would have to assume the nitrate levels they were in first had to be 20-40+. It could be even more than that, I use tap water with that, been doing that with that tank since I never knew how important RODI water was, the tank they are in now is my upgraded tank with all RODI. The first tank with tap water was a fish only tank with no live rock.

Any way I can test flow easily? It has some flow but its not like its super high. It'll brush the algae around and make it swirl in the fuge but that's about it.

 

[JaaxReef]

I have a feeling your flow is fine. Your PO4 test looks like a 0ppm to me, but the API test isn't the best for low level detection. Nitrates should be fine at that level.

It could very well be the shock of moving the algae from a tank with much higher nutrients to one with a much lower limit. After my experience keeping planted tanks for a few years, I would say limiting PO4 and/or NO3 was a quick way to stunt plant growth or possibly kill it off slowly.

Best Regards

 

[Thefishguy]

Should I get new test kits or keep using the API till it runs out than get another brand? The tank I had them in first they were already dying in that tank, which is the reason I moved them. I thought maybe something was off in that tank, but they are still dying in the new tank, but not quite as fast, but they are still dying. I am debating on just putting in a cheap full spectrum CFL and seeing if that changes anything. I have kept planted tanks for freshwater for a few years, which is what got me into wanting to start a reef, and I never heard of aquaticlife leds, so that is why I feel it could just be the light is just simply not good enough. I just didnt think algae really needed a super strong light to grow and keep alive, the only reason I want a fuge is for the pods for my dragonet.

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

Should I get new test kits or keep using the API till it runs out than get another brand? The tank I had them in first they were already dying in that tank, which is the reason I moved them. I thought maybe something was off in that tank, but they are still dying in the new tank, but not quite as fast, but they are still dying. I am debating on just putting in a cheap full spectrum CFL and seeing if that changes anything. I have kept planted tanks for freshwater for a few years, which is what got me into wanting to start a reef, and I never heard of aquaticlife leds, so that is why I feel it could just be the light is just simply not good enough. I just didnt think algae really needed a super strong light to grow and keep alive, the only reason I want a fuge is for the pods for my dragonet.

IMO. Try the cfl. Keep the tests. And pull any chemical media except carbon.
Easy cheap solutions first

 

[Thefishguy]

I will try the CFL, might switch it out tonight if I can find any laying around. Any specific watt bulb I should be going for? I am running no chemical media right now, only filter pad, skimmer, and fuge, I have filter socks also, but not installed as I dont have any extras atm, so I dont want to have to change and rinse them every other day to prevent them from over flowing.

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

The highest watttage cfl won't be too much.
If it works , you may need to dim or make your current led higher. Or look to see if it a good plant spectrum. A neat cheap experiment in spectrum and intensity.

A 4800 or 5600 kelvin should be perfect.

 

[JamesP]

Maybe add some iron. I've been dosing ferrion from brightwell for a week or so now. Too early to say if it's helping, but from what I read that got me to thinking it may be worth a shot in my case.

Trying to get this little ball to grow out.