Maelstrom Reef Pi

[AbjectMaelstroM]

Figured I would put this here as to not cloud the ReefPi thread when I inevitably mess something up and need another set of eyes.

Goodies started to arrive:

Ras Pi 3
Reef Pi HAT v2 by @Michael Lane
2x temp probes
2x mini XLR for said temp probes
JST connectors w/ wiring (3 and 4 pin)
3.5mm jack for power brick
12v 2.5A power brick

To come:
- 1 more temp probe
- D9 for diy 8 power sockets
- pH probe and outlet probably using Mike's isolated pH circuit board...... What are people using for probes? Suggestions?
-Lighting controls: not entirely decided on this yes. Still bouncing between a T5 hybrid with diy Led pucks and Led only (SBreef?). But depending on how many channels I need to control might use RJ45 interface.
- Dosing pumps (much later) probably mini XLR as well depending on how many terminals I need.


First order of business, route out an opening for the Lan and USB plugs, just in case. It will be run headless so not doing openings for hdmi or audio jacks. Once that is out of the way, measure wires and plan out layout for the multiple outlets to follow.

As for the temp probes, disregard the wago connectors, I was just testing the probes (within . 3F of each other). The probes will be covered with shrink tubing and ends sealed with silicone as I've seen a lot of horror stories of these "waterproof" probes rusting to crap. All the in-box wiring will be sleeved to keep the rats nest of wires to a minimum.

... Uh, I think that's about it for now.

 

[AbjectMaelstroM]

Part 1 done.
Temp probes and outlets wired.

Now, clean up and treat myself...

 

[AbjectMaelstroM]

Anyone have a recommendation for a quality buck converter (12 to 5v) and a suggestion for a pH probe?

Found some buck converters on Amazon, pack of 6...unless I hear otherwise, I'll pick those up. Out of 6, at least one should be good and not whine.

 

[Ranjib]

Anyone have a recommendation for a quality buck converter (12 to 5v) and a suggestion for a pH probe?

Found some buck converters on Amazon, pack of 6...unless I hear otherwise, I'll pick those up. Out of 6, at least one should be good and not whine.

I use the same, lm2596 based 5 packs.

 

[Ranjib]

Part 1 done.
Temp probes and outlets wired.

Now, clean up and treat myself...

\m/ . Important to reward yourself at the end of a hard , long day

Figured I would put this here as to not cloud the ReefPi thread when I inevitably mess something up and need another set of eyes.

Goodies started to arrive:

Ras Pi 3
Reef Pi HAT v2 by @Michael Lane
2x temp probes
2x mini XLR for said temp probes
JST connectors w/ wiring (3 and 4 pin)
3.5mm jack for power brick
12v 2.5A power brick

To come:
- 1 more temp probe
- D9 for diy 8 power sockets
- pH probe and outlet probably using Mike's isolated pH circuit board...... What are people using for probes? Suggestions?
-Lighting controls: not entirely decided on this yes. Still bouncing between a T5 hybrid with diy Led pucks and Led only (SBreef?). But depending on how many channels I need to control might use RJ45 interface.
- Dosing pumps (much later) probably mini XLR as well depending on how many terminals I need.


First order of business, route out an opening for the Lan and USB plugs, just in case. It will be run headless so not doing openings for hdmi or audio jacks. Once that is out of the way, measure wires and plan out layout for the multiple outlets to follow.

As for the temp probes, disregard the wago connectors, I was just testing the probes (within . 3F of each other). The probes will be covered with shrink tubing and ends sealed with silicone as I've seen a lot of horror stories of these "waterproof" probes rusting to crap. All the in-box wiring will be sleeved to keep the rats nest of wires to a minimum.

... Uh, I think that's about it for now.

The components looks awesome, mini-xlr are very good connectors, the power adapter looks good to (chizon??). The barrel jack connector fits properly with the power adapter?

 

[AbjectMaelstroM]

\m/ . Important to reward yourself at the end of a hard , long day

The components looks awesome, mini-xlr are very good connectors, the power adapter looks good to (chizon??). The barrel jack connector fits properly with the power adapter?

Not sure on the adapter, I'd have to look when I get home. It fits great, pushing 12.51v according to the multimeter.

I got @Michael Lane 's PH board going to wire that up this weekend, as well as seal the temp probes w/ silicone. Then get cracking on the power outlet(s).

XLRs are awesome connectors, but dang they're a pain to wire up.

 

[AbjectMaelstroM]

More goodies came in, back to the bench.

 

[AbjectMaelstroM]

Dropped in the buck converter and dialed it in to 5.003 (closest I could get it to 5v)Got the outlets/relays wired and tested. 3/8 outlets wired in normally closed for return pumps/power-heads in case power goes out and comes back on. 5/8 wires as normally open for everything else. Need more rainbow cable/jumper cables to finish up the D9 then build an enclosure for the thing... Or maybe build it into the stand...maybe?

 

[Mikeneedsahobby]

I have two Milwaukee ph probes with no complaints for what it’s worth.

 

[AbjectMaelstroM]

I have two Milwaukee ph probes with no complaints for what it’s worth.

This is what I have coming next week. Might be the same ones.

Milwaukee Instruments MA911B/2 Double Junction Ph Electrode

 

[AbjectMaelstroM]

Put it all together. Now just waiting on the 10-pin aviation connector to hook it up to the pi.

Debating whether to build a box for it out of 1/2 ply or to build the outlets into the stand... Decisions, decisions.

 

[Sordfish]

Nice work. I plan to set this up in the fall while cycling my tank. Although I am thinking of doing an Arduino based controller rather than the Pi. I don't have much experience with Linux. Following along.

 

[Bigtrout]

This is what I have coming next week. Might be the same ones.

Milwaukee Instruments MA911B/2 Double Junction Ph Electrode

This is the one I got, no problems so far!

 

[AbjectMaelstroM]

Are people putting their outlets/power strips into/under the stand? Or away from the stand on something like a board or another cabinet? I will likely be building two more "mini" stands similar to my DT stand; they will hide the 20 gal brute bins for my RODI and salt water (wife gave me the death stare when I told her I wanted to put 2 20 gal trash cans in the dining room), wondering if I need to find a mounting solution for the electronic bits.

Thoughts? And as always, thanks for looking!

 

[AbjectMaelstroM]

Well, got another update. Good news bad news kind of update. Got to show it all, right?

Good news, 10-pin aviation connector came in. Made the hookups for the power controller and a cable to go with it. The connector is some heavy duty secure stuff, but dang was it a pain to solder.

Now the bad news. Through no one's fault but my own (rushing and cutting corners). In a bit of a hurry to hook up the newly made connectors and cable, I went to drill the mounting hole in the enclosure. Typically what I have done, is remove the pi from the enclosure. Well, not today, not today....

With pi still in the enclosure, I set the depth on my drill press, or so I thought, and proceeded to drill. No one more surprised than I when the drill press plunged more than the 1/4 inch it was set to. Instantly, I knew I fraked up. With great care I backed out the drill and noticed that the drill bit was out further than it should have been, then I looked at the enclosure, as if hoping that through some witchcraft nothing bad had happened. It wasn't so.

Sheered off a couple of smd's. Pi wouldn't power up. I removed the HAT and thankfully the pi came back to life. Glad it was only a $30 boo boo and not a $70.

I got lazy and complacent...and it cost me.

Another HAT on the way from Mike, wondering if I should buy a spare haha.

 

[Bigtrout]

Well, got another update. Good news bad news kind of update. Got to show it all, right?

Good news, 10-pin aviation connector came in. Made the hookups for the power controller and a cable to go with it. The connector is some heavy duty secure stuff, but dang was it a pain to solder.

Now the bad news. Through no one's fault but my own (rushing and cutting corners). In a bit of a hurry to hook up the newly made connectors and cable, I went to drill the mounting hole in the enclosure. Typically what I have done, is remove the pi from the enclosure. Well, not today, not today....

With pi still in the enclosure, I set the depth on my drill press, or so I thought, and proceeded to drill. No one more surprised than I when the drill press plunged more than the 1/4 inch it was set to. Instantly, I knew I fraked up. With great care I backed out the drill and noticed that the drill bit was out further than it should have been, then I looked at the enclosure, as if hoping that through some witchcraft nothing bad had happened. It wasn't so.

Sheered off a couple of smd's. Pi wouldn't power up. I removed the HAT and thankfully the pi came back to life. Glad it was only a $30 boo boo and not a $70.

I got lazy and complacent...and it cost me.

Another HAT on the way from Mike, wondering if I should buy a spare haha.

Sorry for your loss, its always when you get in a hurry that dumb mistakes happen.

Maybe the hat can be fixed if its only a few smds

 

[AbjectMaelstroM]

Sorry for your loss, its always when you get in a hurry that dumb mistakes happen.

Maybe the hat can be fixed if its only a few smds

Yeah that's what Mike mentioned. I sent him the pix of the damage, let's see what he says. Would good if it's something that can be fixed, but I'm not getting my hopes up.

 

[AbjectMaelstroM]

Some good news. After talking to Mike, seems what I took out was part of power regulation for 5v, so backpowering from the HAT is somewhat out (there are workarounds) but, stardard USB power still works. So I suppose I have a backup if I'm ever in a pinch.

In other news, optical sensors came in:

 

[AbjectMaelstroM]

Alright boys (@Bigtrout , @Michael Lane , @Ranjib , @Diamond1 ) I need your help once again.

I just grabbed up a Viparspectra fixture to play with and need some help getting it to work with reef-pi. Now, from what I've gathered so far Vipars use a 3.3pwm signal to dim; easy , just run it like I did with my DIY fixture off of PCA9586 Mike's HAT. Where I'm stumped is, vipar require on/off signal to actually turn the drivers on so that you can then dim them via pwm.

I've seen a couple of builds do this via 5/12v relays, however, having the HAT and ULN2803 being essentially an 8 channel relay...is that something that can be achieved without adding what seems like redundant relays? If so, how would it be wired up?

Here are some shots of the insides of the Vipar dimming circuit and driver. Looks like grey is ground, blue is PWM, brown is 12v and white is ON/OFF.

 

[devlzluv]

Following as im going to be doing the same thing very soon!