Making the Switch: 2x Radion G3 Pro -> ATI 8 Bulb T5

[Christopher Poore]

Hello All!

I've decided to give T5 A try as I haven't been too happy with the results of my Radions.

My tank is a 57 Gallon, 36x16x18 IIRC. The radions are about 7inch off the water and are run at a MAX of 42% Intensity. I believe par at some of my SPS are around 220 (I have a par meter so I can double check)
I'm a little worried about frying everything as I'm pretty sure this fixture is going to be a LOT brighter than my current setup. Any help with the questions below would be great

Any suggestions on successfully making the swap?

Should I PAR match my SPS?

Should I start around 10inch above the water?

I also want to run an XHO Reefbrite ALL blue, is it okay to run the Reefbrite 24/7 (as moonlites) or is it too much light during the off hours of the T5?

What Light cycle should I use? 2 Bulbs for 10 hours and all 8 bulbs for 8hr?

Any other suggestions or advice for a successful swap? Bulb combos advice would be greatly appreciated too!

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

Any suggestions on successfully making the swap?

your on the right track

Should I PAR match my SPS?

your choice. you can go with more if you want. If everything is good at the current levels yes. BUT....

Should I start around 10inch above the water?

I think you'll get a LOT more par out of the T5 fixtures. From what I know of ati, you'll be in the 1000 par range at the very top dead center at that height.
I put 4 t5 8 in above the 55g and the growth was explosive. I run higher nutrints and a lower alk.

I also want to run an XHO Reefbrite ALL blue, is it okay to run the Reefbrite 24/7 (as moonlites) or is it too much light during the off hours of the T5?

The reefbright I metered was VERY powerful at 12in, if it has a dimmer Id use it and also check the par your getting from it. I dont prefer moonlight. I think fish need to sleep and corals too.

What Light cycle should I use? 2 Bulbs for 10 hours and all 8 bulbs for 8hr?

Keep it the same you have as far as peak lighting. I made a 12+ day but it was low power led (pre dawn, dawn and sunset and dusk), and the peaks were the t5. my peak was 6hrs approx. so led, 1/2 t5/full t5, led.
Now on full led my schedule is roughly the same. I will admit I set mine so I can see the tank as much as possible, 6am to 10pm, but its long and slow. Its also quite like an actual long summer day as far as time and intensity increases. The accidental bonus is I see the corals wake up, and my ruby dragonettes spawn under the last hour of dusky light.

Any other suggestions or advice for a successful swap?

if you opt for higher pars acclimate by shorter photo periods. I know what ATI says about the dimmer, but Im not a fan. also you can about the 50hr burn in by just going full up and shorter time.

I would test the par in the top middle of the tank. and then the middle and get averages. I think your going to have a LOT more light than you do now, and I think many folks who switch report more success w t5 because of it, and also Vice Versa.

 

[hart24601]

Wow, you have 2 radion G3 pro over a 57g? What exactly are you not happy with? That is a very nice light to move away from. I personally would take those over t5. Why not try increasing the PAR on the coral since you are running the radions so low since you will get a PAR increase with the ATI. I like 300-500 for my acros with LEDs.

Just a word of warning, lights will not really make a drastic difference to the tank when dealing with top end fixtures. Growth is more about feeding, color more about managing nutrients and color changing deals a lot with light intensity. Even if you decide to go with ATI I would look at what PAR those setups tend to put on the corals (since you have a meter) and match that with the radions - if nothing else to get coral acclimated, but really if you make that equal I don't think you will see much difference.

 

[ws6kid]

I agree with both posts. Radion G3 Pros are great lights. I personally have never felt like the illumination on a tank is as good with LEDs as they are more focused clusters. I find the spread on halides and T5s to be more even and brighter in appearance for the same PAR. Unless you have 4 Radions, the coverage from the T5 will appear brighter, at least to me. I think people want to turn the LEDs up to compensate and it leads to burning their corals. The coloration with a Radion should be outstanding because you have the LEDs to create excellent fluorescence. The T5 is a flatter appearing light source and doesnt have the shimmer per say. If you are adding a reefbrite, you will be covered in that aspect though.

Any changes to lights should be followed by acclimation. I would start with the light up higher and move it down closer each week until you are happy.

I also agree that nutrient levels, water consistency, and good husbandry in general will lead you to great success with either type of light.

 

[2una]

Might not be the most charming look or economical way of going about things but heres another idea for you.
With the par meter i need to get the radions(G4pro's) to about 65-70% before i see equivilent par numbers up by the surface like what i was getting with just t5 alone before.(the t5 unit(8x80W Ati sunpower) was lower before). Still pretty new set up with the leds,still feeling my way in,atm leds are on 60% & 9inch awl.

My homemade Powermodule without the bugs & a lot more spectrum choice

 

[2una]

I also don't know if led par can be called the same as t5 par but with what i found there maybe it might be worth just riding in some more intensity of what you have there already?
If they are comparable i was only seeing numbers out of the led that would concern me vrs the t5 up around 70% intensity

 

[Todd31]

im in a similar boat... switching this weekend from a Kessil AP700 over my 75 gallon to a 36 inch 6 bulb ATI T5. Im very excited for the better coverage for the SPS but im most nervous about my lower light corals on the bottom of the tank... Going to take this very easy and use the PAR meter a lot....

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

led par can be called the same as t5 par

yea theres some weird there fo sho. Many with meters report the exact same numbers when they switch but.....

 

[2una]

yea theres some weird there fo sho. Many with meters report the exact same numbers when they switch but.....

I'm tending to be weary of it too,already kicked my t5's back to 6 hours instead of the previous 9 hours after i seen my PH taking a hike into an area it normally don't go(higher)

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

I'm tending to be weary of it too,already kicked my t5's back to 6 hours instead of the previous 9 hours after i seen my PH taking a hike into an area it normally don't go(higher)

yea id guess you have no co2 related PH probs..

I just told a guy in another thread to turn up his lights to cure his ph..

 

[ws6kid]

Might not be the most charming look or economical way of going about things but heres another idea for you.
With the par meter i need to get the radions(G4pro's) to about 65-70% before i see equivilent par numbers up by the surface like what i was getting with just t5 alone before.(the t5 unit(8x80W Ati sunpower) was lower before). Still pretty new set up with the leds,still feeling my way in,atm leds are on 60% & 9inch awl.

My homemade Powermodule without the bugs & a lot more spectrum choice

Is is kind of awesome and crazy. I like it That tank is beautiful.

 

[Michael Montgomery]

Taking notes...

 

[Christopher Poore]

your on the right track

your choice. you can go with more if you want. If everything is good at the current levels yes. BUT....

I think you'll get a LOT more par out of the T5 fixtures. From what I know of ati, you'll be in the 1000 par range at the very top dead center at that height.
I put 4 t5 8 in above the 55g and the growth was explosive. I run higher nutrints and a lower alk.

The reefbright I metered was VERY powerful at 12in, if it has a dimmer Id use it and also check the par your getting from it. I dont prefer moonlight. I think fish need to sleep and corals too.

Keep it the same you have as far as peak lighting. I made a 12+ day but it was low power led (pre dawn, dawn and sunset and dusk), and the peaks were the t5. my peak was 6hrs approx. so led, 1/2 t5/full t5, led.
Now on full led my schedule is roughly the same. I will admit I set mine so I can see the tank as much as possible, 6am to 10pm, but its long and slow. Its also quite like an actual long summer day as far as time and intensity increases. The accidental bonus is I see the corals wake up, and my ruby dragonettes spawn under the last hour of dusky light.

if you opt for higher pars acclimate by shorter photo periods. I know what ATI says about the dimmer, but Im not a fan. also you can about the 50hr burn in by just going full up and shorter time.

I would test the par in the top middle of the tank. and then the middle and get averages. I think your going to have a LOT more light than you do now, and I think many folks who switch report more success w t5 because of it, and also Vice Versa.

So the Reef Brite should only be turned on once the first 2 bulbs are turned on (or maybe just a little bit before). Then turned off around the same time the 2 first bulbs turn off. I may begin with the 6 bulbs only being on for 6 hours then.

No dimmer on my fixture so I shouldn't need to worry about burning in the bulbs

I think I am going to run the light around 14 inches above the water level to begin with as I am slightly concerned about the substantial par increase.

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

So the Reef Brite should only be turned on once the first 2 bulbs are turned on (or maybe just a little bit before). Then turned off around the same time the 2 first bulbs turn off. I may begin with the 6 bulbs only being on for 6 hours then.

No dimmer on my fixture so I shouldn't need to worry about burning in the bulbs

I think I am going to run the light around 14 inches above the water level to begin with as I am slightly concerned about the substantial par increase.

there's no set set rule, but for visual appeal, pretend its a ramping fixture. Dark, Low blue, low blue & white, full power, low blue & white, low blue, dark.

you can also control the photo period better this way and acclimation. Once you decide how long you want the tank on, divide the day up, and you can add or subtract to the peak time to adjust how much light you give the tank.

I would meter the led though. If its high power it may be distracting visually, esp if its got more punch than the t5's.

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

I think I am going to run the light around 14 inches above the water level to begin with as I am slightly concerned about the substantial par increase.

and keep in mind the photo period at peak can be adjusted to avoid overdose.

Whats your current light again and %'s
and whats you N/P and alk?