Male Crosshatch Trigger
- Thread starter jjesch
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Diesel
ME=1, CANCER=0.
How big is the CH trigger?
CH trigger are shy fish at first and will hide for days and because of that they don't eat.
Just give it some time and it will come around.
Btw, you said in QT do you treat it as we speak and if so with what?
CH trigger are shy fish at first and will hide for days and because of that they don't eat.
Just give it some time and it will come around.
Btw, you said in QT do you treat it as we speak and if so with what?
Really need to know size of the fish. Also what are you trying to feed. Min won't eat any small foods only large meaty items. First thing I got him to eat were small chunks of halibut I was saving for myself. Then large frozen chunks of pe (large) mysis, but he won't eat it if it thaws and breaks apart. Also I squeeze freeze dried maids together in chunks and he eats that. For reference her is around 8 to 9 inches long
Thank you everyone for your help I will try some of these ideas. He is around 8 inches long and I do have him in QT but am not treating him with anything, just want to make sure he is healthy before he goes in with the other fish.
stevo01
R33F!N @DD!CT
What about trying some prazipro, as well as some other easy meds while in QT? A deworming could be a solution. Not sure what you have for inverts in DT, so now is a good time to do that. Im still in favor of soaking some food in selco boost. Just be sure to remove the excess liquid from the soaking food before adding the food to the tank. Keep an eye on the behavior and the condition. Can you post a picture please?
. Otherwise I would consider other health issues.
CH are definitely net caught. I know the only large dive company owner in Hawaii...he specializes in his attention to detail and proper decompression, even when there are sharks around, he does not deviate. I am sure you can get these from other divers, but I would bet $ that he and his team collected this one. Since they are deep water fish, I am not sure they could use cyanide anyways....is the fish disintegrating? If he is, then cyanide collection would be the method of collection....otherwise...just timid and scared right now...do you have hiding places in qt for him? Empty pvc elbows and the like? Sometimes it is harder to get larger fish to eat initially, but triggers are pretty resilient and bounce back quickly from hunger strikes ime.
stevo01
R33F!N @DD!CT
Is there any visual sign of illness? I havent heard anything in your posts. So if its just an eating problem I would consider Prazipro in case of intestinal worms.
To encourage eating I would try some minced up table shrimp, and/or frozen mysis, frozen cyclopeeze soaked in S.E.L.C.O. Boost for 10 minutes, then rinsed. Again, not sure if this is cyanide poisoning, stress, the fish's shyness, unwillingness to eat provided foods, illness due to internal infection, worms, ect.
To encourage eating I would try some minced up table shrimp, and/or frozen mysis, frozen cyclopeeze soaked in S.E.L.C.O. Boost for 10 minutes, then rinsed. Again, not sure if this is cyanide poisoning, stress, the fish's shyness, unwillingness to eat provided foods, illness due to internal infection, worms, ect.
stevo01
R33F!N @DD!CT
I like your thoughts on a hiding place in the QT. Its easy to assume stuff. If your putting any rock in this QT just be aware that after using some meds that rock should remain in a QT. I would go for the PVC option. Maybe a few size elbows.
Also note that crosshatch triggers are open water eaters. Mine has a much better feeding response when it sees food rush by in a strong current and it pays much less attention to food that has settled on the bottom. I'd suggest making sure you have a strong current in the tank. With an 8" fish, what size Q tank do you have it in? A tank too small may be contributing to the stress and not eating predicament.
Proactive treating for protozoan and worms/flukes is a good practice IMO, however I would see if I could try and get the fish to eat first. Some fish react differently to meds and they may have an even more suppressed appetite once you start treating.
Proactive treating for protozoan and worms/flukes is a good practice IMO, however I would see if I could try and get the fish to eat first. Some fish react differently to meds and they may have an even more suppressed appetite once you start treating.
Lots of good thoughts in this thread, i agree tank size could play a big role in stressing out a fish this large.
Just want to add they can go a month without eating but it's probly not eaten in a couple weeks since it was collected.
I'd not use meds until it's eating. If it really won't look at anything on the bottom, and it's just a known trait of the fish, you could try to tie the offerings to some fishing line and or veggie clip, and let it float mid level in the tank. Maybe so a Powerhead is moving out around. Maybe even try some small live goldfish just to get it eating.
Just want to add they can go a month without eating but it's probly not eaten in a couple weeks since it was collected.
I'd not use meds until it's eating. If it really won't look at anything on the bottom, and it's just a known trait of the fish, you could try to tie the offerings to some fishing line and or veggie clip, and let it float mid level in the tank. Maybe so a Powerhead is moving out around. Maybe even try some small live goldfish just to get it eating.
