Mandarin QT

[Dmb092182]

So I have all my fish separate from display in copper treatment right now with coppersafe at 2.0. Day 1 starts today. I have my mandarin still in display tank. How should I go about the qt process so my tank should could go fallow as soon as possible and pull him out? Can you guys help me? Thanks!

 

[HotRocks]

@Humblefish @Big G @4FordFamily

 

[Big G]

Setup another QT for the mandarin and treat as follows. From @Humblefish
Chloroquine phosphate: Treats Ich (Cryptocaryon irritans), Marine Velvet disease (Amyloodinium), Brooklynella hostilis & Uronema marinum.

How To Treat - Chloroquine phosphate (CP) is a “new drug” that actually was widely used to control external protozoa in saltwater aquariums back in the 70s & 80s. It was even used in some aquarium medications sold at LFS. Nowadays CP requires a prescription to purchase legitimately, making it more difficult to obtain. Fast forward to today and thanks to the power of the Internet, CP has come roaring back! The biggest obstacle to overcome is obtaining pharmaceutical grade 99% pure CP. I cannot stress the importance of this enough. Do not buy it from some guy on eBay or even an online vendor. The only way to be sure you are getting 99% pure CP is to get your vet to write you a prescription that can then be filled at a local pharmacy.

CP is a “one and done” medication, meaning you dose once and that’s it. There are no test kits for CP, so it’s important that you dose accurately using a digital scale. Also, don’t forget to dose any replacement water (from water changes, but not top off) with CP. The dosage rates are as follows:

• Prophylactic treatment is 40 mg per gallon.
• Active infections (visible symptoms present) is 60mg/gal.
• For Uronema marinum and really bad infestations, you can dose up to 80mg/gal.

As you can see, there is quite a bit of wiggle room between the minimum & maximum dosage. Practically speaking, 40mg/gal will treat all external protozoa issues… it’s just that the higher dosages may get the job done a little faster. Treatment lasts 30 consecutive days, and no carbon, UV, etc. may be used during this time (although it can be used later when you wish to remove the medication from the water). A little quirk about CP is that it is light sensitive, so you cannot use a light on the aquarium while treating. However, this does not mean your fish have to remain in total darkness; ambient lighting (say, from a window across the room) is fine. CP is NOT reef safe. In addition to killing your corals, it is a very strong algaecide.

Pros - Gentle on most fish (DO NOT USE with wrasses), a “one and done” medication that treats most external protozoa. CP is the closest thing there is to a “wonder drug” in our hobby.

Cons/Side Effects - Expensive, hard to get (requires a prescription), light sensitive; some evidence of appetite suppression with certain species (especially wrasses.) Attempts to feed CP laced food are usually not successful due to its bad metallic taste.

 

[4FordFamily]

Setup another QT for the mandarin and treat as follows. From @Humblefish
Chloroquine phosphate: Treats Ich (Cryptocaryon irritans), Marine Velvet disease (Amyloodinium), Brooklynella hostilis & Uronema marinum.

How To Treat - Chloroquine phosphate (CP) is a “new drug” that actually was widely used to control external protozoa in saltwater aquariums back in the 70s & 80s. It was even used in some aquarium medications sold at LFS. Nowadays CP requires a prescription to purchase legitimately, making it more difficult to obtain. Fast forward to today and thanks to the power of the Internet, CP has come roaring back! The biggest obstacle to overcome is obtaining pharmaceutical grade 99% pure CP. I cannot stress the importance of this enough. Do not buy it from some guy on eBay or even an online vendor. The only way to be sure you are getting 99% pure CP is to get your vet to write you a prescription that can then be filled at a local pharmacy.

CP is a “one and done” medication, meaning you dose once and that’s it. There are no test kits for CP, so it’s important that you dose accurately using a digital scale. Also, don’t forget to dose any replacement water (from water changes, but not top off) with CP. The dosage rates are as follows:

• Prophylactic treatment is 40 mg per gallon.
• Active infections (visible symptoms present) is 60mg/gal.
• For Uronema marinum and really bad infestations, you can dose up to 80mg/gal.

As you can see, there is quite a bit of wiggle room between the minimum & maximum dosage. Practically speaking, 40mg/gal will treat all external protozoa issues… it’s just that the higher dosages may get the job done a little faster. Treatment lasts 30 consecutive days, and no carbon, UV, etc. may be used during this time (although it can be used later when you wish to remove the medication from the water). A little quirk about CP is that it is light sensitive, so you cannot use a light on the aquarium while treating. However, this does not mean your fish have to remain in total darkness; ambient lighting (say, from a window across the room) is fine. CP is NOT reef safe. In addition to killing your corals, it is a very strong algaecide.

Pros - Gentle on most fish (DO NOT USE with wrasses), a “one and done” medication that treats most external protozoa. CP is the closest thing there is to a “wonder drug” in our hobby.

Cons/Side Effects - Expensive, hard to get (requires a prescription), light sensitive; some evidence of appetite suppression with certain species (especially wrasses.) Attempts to feed CP laced food are usually not successful due to its bad metallic taste.

This

 

[Humblefish]

Is your mandarin eating frozen or pellets? If not, it will never survive the fallow period without pods. If it does eat frozen/pellets, you will need to spot feed it 5-6x daily to compensate for the fish's high metabolism.

 

[deedubz]

What are you treating? If it's ich and not velvet you could try moving the mandarin to a sperate qt with some rock from your display. Load up on pods and try to train it to accept frozen, if it doesn't already. Then about 2 weeks before fallow period ends you could do ttm with just him/her, drastically reducing the timeframe without pods. This would only work if it's ich though. You'd also have to make sure there is 0 cross contamination. I don't remember who it was but a user here did this with success.

Edit- the rock in mandarin qt would have to be tossed afterwards.

 

[deedubz]

@Humblefish also did a writeup somewhere about ttm for velvet in which transfers were done at 36 hours, I believe?

 

[Dmb092182]

Is your mandarin eating frozen or pellets? If not, it will never survive the fallow period without pods. If it does eat frozen/pellets, you will need to spot feed it 5-6x daily to compensate for the fish's high metabolism.

I have seen him eat some frozen. How could I get access to cp and is it expensive. I thought about tank transfer method.

 

[Dmb092182]

It is just ich not velvet.

 

[deedubz]

I have seen him eat some frozen. How could I get access to cp and is it expensive. I thought about tank transfer method.

Prescription. Most vets would require you to bring a fish in or schedule a house visit, unless you have an awesome one near you

 

[Dmb092182]

So I have a qt tank and filter that is a 10 gallon that I used coppersafe with a yellow tang that I thought had velvet. I tore it down and I cleaned everything with vinegar and letting it dry. Do you think this is safe to place mandarin in after tank transfer method is used? Would I be able to feed live pods.

 

[Humblefish]

Do you think this is safe to place mandarin in after tank transfer method is used? Would I be able to feed live pods.

Yes, but the pods will have to come from a source other than your infected DT.

 

[Dmb092182]

So I successfully tank transferred this little guy. I have been adding pods from store. Would really like to start my own culture of pods. Thank for everyone’s help.