Maracyn for red cyano??

shred5 · Oct 18, 2011

kuyatwo said:
Most red slime removers are not antibiotics but actually oxidizers. It was thought to be an antibiotic but last time I researched it someone actually looked at a sample and determined it was an oxidizer not antibiotic

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Chemi clean isnt there may be more but most are plain old Erythromycin.. I wrote them a letter several years ago and they claimed there was non in there but they would let me know what is in it.

I have to ask though why you would think a oxidizer poored directly in the tank would be better? Is it going to target one type of bacteria? Hmm how about Potassium permanganate which has been used in some older red slime removers.?

Dave Polzin

kuyatwo · Oct 18, 2011

http://www.marinedepot.com/Red_Slime_Cyanobacteria_Remover_Medications-FIMERM-ct.html

Click on them majority that are used for res slime are oxidizers now, maybe in the past they were antibiotics.

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fishguy86 · Oct 19, 2011

try checking your posphate with the new red sea pro test ,, its low range and not to expensive .. also the new phos X 4 remover is lots cheaper than the rowa phos .. We sell a small bag that treats 1000 gallons for 30.00 an it can be regenerated..

Saltgator · Oct 19, 2011

fishguy86 said:
try checking your posphate with the new red sea pro test ,, its low range and not to expensive .. also the new phos X 4 remover is lots cheaper than the rowa phos .. We sell a small bag that treats 1000 gallons for 30.00 an it can be regenerated..

is your phos x 4 comparable to rowa ?

fishguy86 · Oct 19, 2011

we buy it from Aquarium specialty .. so its not my product ,, we just sell it .. but I would rate it much beter .. treats 4 times as much...

Saltgator · Oct 20, 2011

Well... no luck with lights off 24 hrs. Other than carbon removed from the sump, I ain't done anything else (not even top offs). Just fyi... I cleaned and siphoned out all that I could see before the no carbon, no lights for 24 hrs. Guess my DT has Phos that aren't reading up on my kits. Will be getting Rowa this weekend (since LFS carrys it and I can get it started rather quick) to solve the ongoing issue. Many thanks to those how may have assisted my Cyano battle. Hopefully the Rowa takes the the Phos out of the DT. We'll see.

redemer123 · Oct 20, 2011

yup its been said already, solve the source not the problem. "quick fixes" are bad in this hobby stay away from those.

shred5 · Oct 21, 2011

Saltgator said:
Well... no luck with lights off 24 hrs. Other than carbon removed from the sump, I ain't done anything else (not even top offs). Just fyi... I cleaned and siphoned out all that I could see before the no carbon, no lights for 24 hrs. Guess my DT has Phos that aren't reading up on my kits. Will be getting Rowa this weekend (since LFS carrys it and I can get it started rather quick) to solve the ongoing issue. Many thanks to those how may have assisted my Cyano battle. Hopefully the Rowa takes the the Phos out of the DT. We'll see.

Just start slow with any gfo and slowly increase the amount.. Also this could take a while, if phosphates have bound they will slowly release back. Also are you purifing your tap water? If your tap water is the source of your phosphate you will never get them under control.

Dave Polzin

Saltgator · Oct 21, 2011

Yeah just changed all filters in my ro/do unit.

Steven R · Nov 8, 2011

I recently used chemiclean it is guaranteed to not knock out any of the bio- filter or damage your corals i have a lps dominated tank. I did what it said on the box turned off skimmer and my uv no ozone and after 48 hours did a 30% water change and presto cyano was gone. and has not came back.

Saltgator · Nov 9, 2011

Steven R said:
I recently used chemiclean it is guaranteed to not knock out any of the bio- filter or damage your corals i have a lps dominated tank. I did what it said on the box turned off skimmer and my uv no ozone and after 48 hours did a 30% water change and presto cyano was gone. and has not came back.

I used the method I wrote up on the 1st post. Guess what, no cyano. The only problem was it has taken me FOREVER to get the skimmer to calm down. I had to raise it from 9 inch water depth to 4 inches!!!! I'm running clemi clean now and couldn't be happier. Some of my acros, didn't have good PE, but all was over within 3-4 days after treatment.

jdlemmonds · Oct 29, 2014

We all look at nitrates phosphates and other nutrients that may cause algae growth. Its been a month back, but the article explain TDS ( Total Dissolved Solids). The is the main reason RODI is a must for aquariums. In city water they add chlorine, ammonia and phosphates. Now we know pesticides and other chemicals are in the water as well. Well water is high in silver and other pesticides as well. RODI is supposed to reduce or eliminate the chemicals as well as some viruses. So it is important to test your RODI for TDS presence. I checked place ROdi water and it was 30 TDS not bad, however its best to achieve 0 TDS. Now when we mix salt into our rodi water TDS will go up due to the trace elements and nutrients in our mixes. The article made sense to me. Most city water and well water is have TDS of 300 or more. So when your nutrients are spot on check TDS in the rodi you use. TDs checkers are 24 to 40 dollars depending on which one you decide is best for you.
JD