marine ich

kaylshouse15

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So I have been thinking of ways to treat marine ich in my display tank. So far I'm looking at the hypo way but would it be possible to remove my tangs to a QT while leaving my goby and eel in the display tank ? I have herd they can carry Ich but dont get infected. So If i QT the tangs would the ich die off in my DT over time ?
 
So I have been thinking of ways to treat marine ich in my display tank. So far I'm looking at the hypo way but would it be possible to remove my tangs to a QT while leaving my goby and eel in the display tank ? I have herd they can carry Ich but dont get infected. So If i QT the tangs would the ich die off in my DT over time ?

Eels and gobys can certainly host ich and as long as they are in the tank it will be present

You must remove ALL hosts and leave the tank fallow for 72 days to eradicate
 
Unfortunately you cannot effectively treat and remove Cryptocaryon irritans in a reef tank.

You need to remove all fish to a QT and treat with either copper or my personal go-to, Chloroquine. Leaving the tank fallow (no fish) for 12 weeks.

This ensures that all parasites die out in the display and that your fish are not carrying any. Your fish list will determine the most appropriate treatment, with chloroquine being an excellent treatment for all ciliate parasites, however cannot be used with some species of fish, notably Anthias.

I run a theraputic dose of 10.6mg/l which is also suitable for wrasse, delivered over 3-4 days and maintained at the theraputic dose for 21 days.

There's a number of threads dedicated the the treatment protocol.
 
Unfortunately you cannot effectively treat and remove Cryptocaryon irritans in a reef tank.

You need to remove all fish to a QT and treat with either copper or my personal go-to, Chloroquine. Leaving the tank fallow (no fish) for 12 weeks.

This ensures that all parasites die out in the display and that your fish are not carrying any. Your fish list will determine the most appropriate treatment, with chloroquine being an excellent treatment for all ciliate parasites, however cannot be used with some species of fish, notably Anthias.

I run a theraputic dose of 10.6mg/l which is also suitable for wrasse, delivered over 3-4 days and maintained at the theraputic dose for 21 days.

There's a number of threads dedicated the the treatment protocol.
Unfortunately you cannot effectively treat and remove Cryptocaryon irritans in a reef tank.

You need to remove all fish to a QT and treat with either copper or my personal go-to, Chloroquine. Leaving the tank fallow (no fish) for 12 weeks.

This ensures that all parasites die out in the display and that your fish are not carrying any. Your fish list will determine the most appropriate treatment, with chloroquine being an excellent treatment for all ciliate parasites, however cannot be used with some species of fish, notably Anthias.

I run a theraputic dose of 10.6mg/l which is also suitable for wrasse, delivered over 3-4 days and maintained at the theraputic dose for 21 days.

There's a number of threads dedicated the the treatment protocol.
thank you for your help, I have been looking at this approach to. Think I'm going to struggle to catch the goby and the eel. But I think this is looking like the way to go. I'm just setting up my QT tank now. Will look at how to cycle it. Thanks for your help
 
thank you for your help, I have been looking at this approach to. Think I'm going to struggle to catch the goby and the eel. But I think this is looking like the way to go. I'm just setting up my QT tank now. Will look at how to cycle it. Thanks for your help

It’s worth it to get everything out and treated. Far better doing so early on in the infection cycle than later, where stress will be a factor. The outcome will be far better and you will have eradicated the parasite from your tank and stock entirely. Combined with an effective prophylactic QT process, you can keep it and other parasites out of your tank.
 
It’s worth it to get everything out and treated. Far better doing so early on in the infection cycle than later, where stress will be a factor. The outcome will be far better and you will have eradicated the parasite from your tank and stock entirely. Combined with an effective prophylactic QT process, you can keep it and other parasites out of your tank.
quarantine tank set up today. Just cycleing it just now. Yea will get everything out and leave the main take for the 76 days. treat with the Chloroquine in my QT tank. Thanks for your advice
 
quarantine tank set up today. Just cycleing it just now. Yea will get everything out and leave the main take for the 76 days. treat with the Chloroquine in my QT tank. Thanks for your advice

No worries. Check your fish list against the Chloroquine thread. To make sure of other people’s experience with them. In europe, we routinely treat wrasse with chloroquine (my personal experience is with Anampses, Macropharyngodon, Cirrhilabrus), however at a lower level than is advised in the US (10.6mg/l)
 
Tank transfer method is an incredible way of getting rid off ich. Google a guide. It’s really simple. You still need to leave the tank fallow for a while. You could run a UV sterilizer in your display while it’s empty. Best of luck.
 
Tank transfer method is an incredible way of getting rid off ich. Google a guide. It’s really simple. You still need to leave the tank fallow for a while. You could run a UV sterilizer in your display while it’s empty. Best of luck.
Would running a UV sterilizer speed the process of leaving the display tank empty up ? I have one on order just waiting to collect.
 
I can’t back that with any scientific proof but I’d imagine it would destroy any free swimming ich. I’ve done it before and it has worked for me. It’s one of those “doesn’t hurt to try” things. I don’t know about cutting down time. I’d suggest you run the full term.
 
I can’t back that with any scientific proof but I’d imagine it would destroy any free swimming ich. I’ve done it before and it has worked for me. It’s one of those “doesn’t hurt to try” things. I don’t know about cutting down time. I’d suggest you run the full term.
Will do that to be on the safe side, I'm concerned about my QT tank and hitting ammonia spikes, I have 4 fish to add, should I do it over time ?
 
Honestly try tank transfer method, no chemicals, no BS. It works perfectly to get rid off ich when the rules are followed.

For a QT moving forward just check the ammonia and do water changes accordingly.
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

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