Massive algae in fuge

jduong916

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Not sure if this is in the correct forum room, but here goes. Ever since I installed a kessil H380 in my fuge I am getting super Algae growth. I have calurpa and chaeto which is growing rapidly and now I have a ton of that thick mat/hair type algae growing in the sump. The mat algae grows on top of the macro as well. My DT didnt have much algae to begin with but I see a little cyano here and there, a couple dime size pieces since I've added the H380. I'm wondering if I should remove the mat algae in fuge or let it do its thing. I'm sure it's removing nutrients along with the macro.

On another note, I have a screen material similar to what ATSs are made out of. Its just to keep the macro algae from going into the pump section of the sump. This thing is exploding with the mat algae. I was thinking I could remove all of the macro and just add these sheet to the fuge, standing upright. I think it might perform like an ATS only inside the fuge underwater. Any thoughts?
 
My opinion would be mayb throw some algae eating snails in there to eat some of the hair algae. I think that would be personal preference as long as your DT is free of algae do you mind it growing in your sump? Unless it’s suffocating your macros to the point they are dying off.
 
I don't mind algae in the sump, I put dividers around the fuge so all the algae is contained to that section. The chaeto is growing as much as the hair algae. I'm just wondering if having the hair algae is beneficial or not. I'm inclined to say it is beneficial because it looks like the same stuff that grown on ATSs.
 
In the fuge with controlled growth I believe it’s beneficial way of nutrient export.
 
My opinion would be mayb throw some algae eating snails in there to eat some of the hair algae. I think that would be personal preference as long as your DT is free of algae do you mind it growing in your sump? Unless it’s suffocating your macros to the point they are dying off.
I am not sure if this is a good idea as when the CUC consume the algae, the nutrients are still in the system. I think the key to the nutrient export part is the algae needs to be physically removed from the system.
 
I have the same situation, hair and cheato. I think it's fine. Both export nutrients. I can't see how it would be problem, maybe someone else does?
 
I gotta say this though, that kessil h380 is a beast. My chaeto would turn brown and die with the home depot bulb. Now, and I really hate using and hearing this phrase, my macro "grows like weeds".
 
I'm a believer in a "good" light over the refugium. Also I think as long as it's green it's taking up excess nutrients. Just remove some regularly
 
I had this exact situation a few years ago and thought it would be a good idea to get all of the hair algae out of the fuge, so I did just that, pristine fuge with nothing but macros.

Within two weeks I had the worst DT algae outburst of my reefing career and it took my MONTHS to get the fuge back to a point where it was out competing the DT.
 
I had this exact situation a few years ago and thought it would be a good idea to get all of the hair algae out of the fuge, so I did just that, pristine fuge with nothing but macros.

Within two weeks I had the worst DT algae outburst of my reefing career and it took my MONTHS to get the fuge back to a point where it was out competing the DT.
Seems like ill let it ride. This stuff isn't the normal hair algae though, its the thick matted stuff. I don't think the type of algae makes a much of a difference anyways.
 
Seems like ill let it ride. This stuff isn't the normal hair algae though, its the thick matted stuff. I don't know if the type of algae makes a difference.

Mine was similar to what you are describing, looked almost like shag carpeting growing on the walls of my sump. Took me the better part of 4 months to get it out of my DT after cleaning it all out of my sump.

You should be safe to clean it off of your macros and out of the way if it's blocking light from macros, but I would suggest/urge (not sure the right verbiage here) you not to remove it all. My sample size is only 1, but I can tell you it's a mistake I haven't repeated since and haven't had the same issue. I still have green turfs growing on the glass in my sump along with some Chaeto and recently added one of the red ones. Looking to add some Ulva soon as well.
 
Float a Pyrex bowl under the light beam to defuse the center hot spot. Chaeto and the floating plants will quickly grow around the bowl and hold it in place in a short time if there is enough nutrients. The supermarket baking section has a stack of these bowls in 4 sizes to suit your needs.
 
Float a Pyrex bowl under the light beam to defuse the center hot spot. Chaeto and the floating plants will quickly grow around the bowl and hold it in place in a short time if there is enough nutrients. The supermarket baking section has a stack of these bowls in 4 sizes to suit your needs.
forgive me for the confusion, but what is this supposed to accomplish.
 
Have the same light and mat of floating "rug" algae that is mixed in with the chaeto as you do. The floating mat blocks the light from reaching the calurpa and other plants. What I do is remove some of the mat and clear a center hole, under the light, so light can get to the plants below the floating mat and not burn them. Keep the area under the bowl clear of the mat and the bottom plants will compete for nutrients and balance the 'frug with a thick bunch plants under the floating mat and a manageable top layer.
 
Oh i see what youre saying. The mat algae in my fuge hasnt totally covered the macro. When it become a problem i will definitely use that trick
 
Eventually one algae will win out, unless you have super high nutrients. That's the reason I stopped my fuge, because it was growing algae all over the sump. Reason why I was looking into the reactor version, which is still hit or miss.

Just an fyi, Trigger Systems makes Triton sumps on BRS for an enlarged fuge area.
 
Just prune it a little each week, never completely clean it all.

If you pull everything the DT gets algae.

You only need to remove 5% to 10% every week or so.
 

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